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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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Check the fluid level. If it's low there's a leak which can be either the slave cyl, the master cyl, or the hose between them. Could also be a broken release fork. Have someone else press the clutch pedal while you watch the release fork move. It should move about an inch when the pedal is pushed to the floor. If the end of the lever moves fine, the fork is broken.
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Sounds like a bad head gasket pushing coolant out of the system. To answer the question about the radiator fins, yes bent fins will block airflow through the radiator and can be a big problem. A small spot or two is usually fine but too many bent fins can drastically reduce the cooling capacity of the radiator. A radiator fin comb is the best tool to straighten bent fins. https://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-6-in-1-radiator-ac-condensor-fin-comb-straightener-ac3420/10449275-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=10449275-P&c3apidt=23383982685&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-LmL-bvD1QIVCIlpCh0GtA5BEAQYASABEgJgRPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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90-94 have the cats welded to the y-pipe where 95+ Later the cats bolt on. 99 dual port y-pipe will fit and work if you replace the cats with 95+ type that bolt on. Might be able to cut the cats off and weld them to the 99 y-pipe but I'm not sure. These are both aftermarket but show the difference. 90-94 style https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4963221&cc=1430385&jsn=10371 95+ dual port https://www.amazon.com/Walker-52368-Exhaust-Pipe/dp/B001BS5XQQ
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The clutch will be somewhat difficult to turn as that's what drives the rotor inside the compressor. Turning the clutch makes everything inside the compressor move, so there will be some drag. Common for the bearing in the idlers to fail. Does it spin smoothly or does it spin quickly and sound like it has sand in it? If it sounds fast and Sandy it probably needs a new bearing. A small amount of play is normal. The clunk was probably just the gaps in the belt hitting the pulleys.
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Gates belt? Does it say where it was made? If there was no evidence of ATF inside the cover then oil contamination isn't likely. Oil vapor? Grasping at straws there. Belt isn't good quality, or the tensioner is failing are the most logical reasons. Owner said it made a noise when starting? What was the noise?
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Might be that on the lower right but it's hard to see in the pic. Follow the yellow wire loom. Yellow is reserved for airbag components.
- 4 replies
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- seatbelt
- pretensioner
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You still need alotnof other stuff if all you have is an engine and a cut up harness. Really need to know exactly what year the engine is. 90-91 used different idle control and injectors and they don't interchange and don't work with 92+ ecu. Easiest thing is always to start with a whole dash /engine /ecu harness and cut out what isn't needed for the swap. Much much harder and more expensive to build a harness from scratch. As said earlier there is tons of info on VW swaps and what works and doesn't and what's needed.
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If it's on the seat it will be mounted to the seat rail underneath. Usually a tube with a yellow sticker on it. It may have a protective cover over it to prevent people/objects from damaging it. On some vehicles it's built in to the reel assembly.
- 4 replies
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- seatbelt
- pretensioner
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Clutch is probably ok. 18-20 ohms is normal for most clutch coils. The coil has become weak with age though. Common issue on these. The easy fix is to remove the clutch face and remove a shim washer to tighten up the clearance of the clutch. This usually pulls the clutch in enough that it starts working properly again. Just make sure you still have some clearance between the clutch and pulley when the clutch is reinstalled. Don't need much, just enough that it doesn't drag. Best way to test if it is the coil is with the engine running, run the AC until it stops working. Check voltage at the coil to be sure it's being powered (ecu is telling it to run) and tap the face of the clutch with a screwdriver handle.
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Had the same problem in my 96. The seat wouldn't go back far enough for me. Remove the rails from the seat and you'll see there's a notch at the back that keeps the tracks from rolling back too far. I used a chisel to knock tha notch off and dremel to smooth out the rough edge. You get about 1-1/2" extra by knocking that off. The seat won't slide off because there's another notch in the center of the rail that the front roller will catch on. I think I also had to modify the latch that holds it but it was so long ago now I don't remember exactly.
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That's probably the fuse for the combination meter/instrument cluster. The charge warning lamp in the cluster supplies voltage for the field coil in the alternator, so pulling that fuse would keep the field from energizing and thus prevent charging. It sounds like you either have a short in the output, or the supply wire going to the regulator. The two small wires that plug into the back and the main output lead all go to the under hood fuse panel. Both of the small wires should show 12v with the key On. If the voltage is low there's a wire problem between the alt and the fuse box and that is the most likely cause of your overcurrent condition.
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If you want better sound a stock head unit of any kind isn't going to get you there. Upgrade the speakers front and rear and install an aftermarket head unit. Gone are the days of CDs. Most head units now don't have CD players, so they can fit better internal amps and more room for features like built-in Bluetooth and USB connectivity, and in many cases satellite radio and WIFI connectivity.
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You can't replace a strut with a shock. The strut is a structural part of the suspension and holds the knuckle/hub assembly in position relative to the suspension. A shock does not hold any part of the suspension. It merely controls the up and down movement. You still need a coil-over strut assembly if you have the factory multi-arm suspension. The weight rating is dependent on the vehicle. If you have added or removed weight on the chassis of the car then the spring/strut setup needs to be matched to the weight of the vehicle loaded in the way you plan to run most often. Not as many people here get into serious off-road performance. Check around some of the Impreza forums like Dirally and see what people are running for off-road coil-over struts. Most of those are slimmer than the stock strut assemblies.