Fairtax4me

You'll have to swap wire harness and ECU for non-turbo versions. Will also need the cat pipe and y-pipe for a non-turbo.

VDC Vehcile Dynamic Control. Basically Subarus fancy brand name for Traction Control. Are there any other lights on? Typically if you have a brake problem the ABS light and/or (Brake) light on the instrument cluster will be on as well. OE Subaru brakes aren't necessary. Though if the car does have brake wear indicators, you may have to purchase those separately from Subaru.

Ahh. Gusset seal noise probably. Next time you notice it push on the top corner of the triangle seal on the front of the door.

Is it shaking/ shuddering like its misfiring?

It is exempt from Monitor testing. Monitors are the emissions system testing that the ECU in the car does to verify the various systems are working correctly. It can take a long time (several drives) to run some of the monitors so they set "Ready". In 95 and 96 vehicles these Monitors reset every time the key is turned Off. When the key is turned back on the monitors are "Not Ready". For emissions testing all of the monitors had to be set "Ready" and remain that way after the key is cycled. For this reason the 95 and 96 models are exempt from the electronic monitor testing. Depending on regulations in your state, the car may still need to pass a tail-pipe emissions test, and is still required to have the CEL working but not lit during testing.

Subaru mounts are very easy to change compared to other makers I've seen. Volvo has a rear mount that's integrated with the steering rack on the older S60 models. Have to drop the front subframe to get it out. I've seen a few broken transmission mounts on these. Haven't ever seen a broken engine mount but it can happen. Easy way to check them is just cram a prybar in there and try to lift the engine or transmission up.

Checked fluid level? Is it red? Clean?

Fairly easy to test the clock spring. Black 6 pin plug under the dash running up by the column with 3 or 4 wires in it. The dark green/black stripe is 12v for the horn and cruise switch, and the other two are accel/decel command wires for the cruise module. Check for 12v on the dark green/black wire with key On. Check for 12v on the other two while pressing the cruise lever up/down. The next part requires removal of the airbag on the steering wheel. Disconnect the battery negative and wait ten minutes. Remove the airbag module from the wheel by loosening the torx screws on each side. One per side at about 9&3 o clock. There is a small access hole on either side of the wheel. Unhook the yellow airbag plug by pressing and sliding the green lock tab then the plug will pull apart. Check the same color wires inside the steering wheel for the voltages from above. If you have low or no voltage on the dark green/black wire the clockspring is bad.

For wheel bearings, going cheap means you'll do it again in 6 months or a year. If you're only keeping the car for another year that's fine, but if you plan to keep it for several years just buy a good bearing. Seals will be separate but any new bearing will come with a new snap ring. If you buy a new bearing that is sealed, the seals don't matter.

There's no saving the engine at this point. Loud bang = major internal damage which is simply unrepairable. The best option you have is to replace the engine, and its actually a very good option. A swap for a '95 2.2 engine is very common in the 96-99 cars that had the DOHC 2.5. It's an easy swap because the engine bolts right in works with no modifications. You can find those engines for around $500 usually. Labor may make the total job around $1,200-1,500 depending on labor rates in your area. Tires, muffler, windsheild are all things you may need to replace on another vehicle of you scrapped this one or traded it in.

Can't get them. These cars have just been out of the production loop for too long. Subaru used to offer rain guards for these but they discontinued them years ago. You might get lucky and find someone online selling an old set, or like that other snide jerk said, find a set in a junkyard. But finding new set in a store or online just won't happen.

You have probably cooked the sensor element by feeding it 12v. Bosch sensors typically come with a wire diagram to tell you which wire is which on the sensor. Connecting it wrong can kill the sensor and in some cases damage the ECU and sensor. You need to verify which wire does what on the sensor and make sure its hooked up properly rather than guessing. I'd recommend a direct fit sensor at this point.

Doubtful that's a timing issue. Did you forget a paper towel or rag in the intake manifold? The DOHC heads have a tendancy to burn valves. Do a compression test if you have a guage. These also don't like to be overheated, especially multiple times. Rod bearing damage is likely.

I'm not sure which bushing theyre referring to. The input seal for the transmission doesn't typically leak unless the torque converter was removed at some point. Regardless of the leak, the flex plate isn't affected by a leak. If the flex plate is the problem you will be able to replicate the noise by putting the car in drive, apply the brakes hard and the parking brake and hit the gas. This puts a similar load on the engine to accelerating. Make sure there is nothing in front of the car when doing this.

Could it be that the vehicle was leaning or pointed uphill during the initial fill and is the level now being checked on a flat surface or downhill?

You might be able to get them from Subaru. Try looking in the parts diagrams at Opposedforces.com.

I made a cheap light bulb tester for those sockets. It's a cheapo plug and a 194 wedge bulb socket from the auto parts store. Plug it in and if the light comes on then its getting power. If the light blinks or comes on when I wiggle the plug some the socket is cruddy and needs to be cleaned/replaced.

Brake fluid expands a little when it gets warm. Did you check the fluid level after driving?

Check fuse first. Could have had a penny dropped in it at some point and blew the fuse.

You should be able to bolt an AWD 2.2/2.5 clutch to your flywheel.

I remember seeing some company making a small push bar for the Baja. I wanna say it was Gorilla Off-road, but it may have been Head Trauma Inc. Gorilla it is: http://www.gorillaoffroadcompany.com/product-detail.cfm/prd_key/46

If you broke the tabs you need to remove it. The crank position sensor has to count those tabs to figure ignition and fuel injection timing. If any are missing it loses the sequence and you'll get a no-start condition. The ones that I've done take some wiggling and a little shot of PB but usually slide off without a puller. Check the end of the crank for burrs or nicks. Also if the key slot is still on make sure it isn't chewed up. If you find any rough spots smooth them out with some sand paper or emory cloth.

You NEVER follow the normal change interval for the first change. Even though it has supposedly been all broken in already. For a brand new car, Change the oil and filter at about 500-1,000 miles. If the interval is 7,500 miles, change it again at 7,500 total miles, then go by the normal change interval after that. The reason is that the engine oil that comes in a brand new car is actually OLD. Unless you special ordered the car, that car was built, sat in a storage lot for 3-4 months, and then probably sat on the dealer lot another 1-3 months (possibly longer) making short test drives or being started and moved 30 feet at a time before you bought it.

Thought I might update this. A bit late but we did get this fixed. Expansion valve wasnt bad. The charge was so low that the compressor was actually pulling almost 20" vacuum on the low pressure side. The compressor was actually sucking refrigerant through the expansion valve and causing the hissing sound. Put a can of refrigerant in it and the noise went away and it started blowing nice and cold. Couldn't find any major leaks on it. Compressor was clean, no apparent leaks from the hoses there. Have been keeping an eye on the condenser looking for oily spots. I have a feeling it will be low again after this winter but maybe by then ill be able to tell if the condenser is going to need replacement.

There were differences in clutch disc diameter and the spline count for the input shaft. Some were 7-7/8" diameter, some were 8-7/8" diameter. And either of those could have either a 21 spline or a 24 spline hub. You probably need to pull the trans or engine and check to see which clutch you need before ordering. Measure the outside diameter of the disc and count the splines in the center. The lightweight flywheel isn't really a good thing for a street driven car, especially with AWD. A heavier flywheel carries the momentum of the engine and makes clutch engagement much smoother when leaving from a stop. If you have the larger diameter clutch disc, then the 2.5 clutch kit will work as long as its for a non-turbo.