Fairtax4me

Usually in the bends. It's not a common problem on the older engines though. When you did the reseal did you remove the rocker shaft assembly's? What else did you remove for the reseal? Have you checked the wiring to the pressure switch yet? If the wiring is chafed it can rub on the alternator or intake manifold and turn the light on.

The clip is external to the center diff, but most of the time it gets flung around and hung up in the transfer gears. It lets the center diff unit basically fall apart so replacing just the clip is not a good idea. Here's a writeup on SF.org that shows removal. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/center-diffs-how-replace-them-46979/

Did you use a new o-ring on the back of the pump? Did you use RTV to seal the pump? When you pulled the pan did you check the pickup tube for cracks?

All 4 tires the same size, brand, and tread wear? Properly inflated? The center differential is the cause of the binding. When it gets hot it locks. Mixing and matching tires (2 new and 2 worn) will cause the front and rear output shafts from the center diff to spin at different speeds which heats up the fluid in the diff and makes it lock. If the problem is left too long it damages the diff and causes it to bind. The only fix is to replace the center diff, but you also need to correct the issue that caused the damage, which is tires. All 4 need to be same brand, style, size, and have even tread wear.

The pivot ball on the release fork has gone dry. Happens on all of these. It's tricky to do, but I get a long bendy straw and fish it down into the hole for the release arm and spray white lithium grease in the straw and it flows down and gets on the pivot. Pump the pedal a few times and the squeak goes away. You bend the straw only about 15 degrees. Stick the straw in behind the release fork and let the groove shape of the fork guide the straw down about 5-6". Then stick the smaller straw on the grease can nozzle into the end of the bendy straw and spray a couple shots down there.

If you're just looking for the backgrounds whitegauges.com has them in white and several colors. The colors are more expensive though. There are also reverse glow guages available if you look around.

Pretty common on the 99s. Theres a circlip on the AWD center diff that pops loose and can get hung up in the transfer gears. Not too difficult to fix if you're mechanically inclined. Just have to pull the tail housing and the transfer gears and center diff pull out, then put new (used) ones in.

I use a 3lb hammer and strike the at side of the control arm where the ball joint stud goes through. 3-4 solid hits usually pops it loose. It also helps to have a large prybar to help pull the control arm down while you swing the hammer. Since you have the bushings knocked out of the arm you'll have put it back in place and slide the bolts through to hold it. The steel sleeve bushings can be a pain to replace without a press, but a vice usually works to push the new ones in.

If that's the case check the pushrod on the clutch pedal for an adjuster. The pushrod is adjusted to tight and not allowing the MC piston to return all the way. This can cause the slave cylinder to hold pressure on the clutch release fork and cause the clutch to slip.

If one side of the car is sitting lower than the other you may have a weak or broken spring. Gas shocks don't hold up any extra weight. The gas only controls aeration of the oil in the shock to prevent foaming during actuation of the strut. The springs are what hold up the weight of the car. The shocks/struts simply dampen movement of the suspension to keep it from bouncing.

Seems like an aftermarket ECM should be able to do either. If nothing else you could gut the stock one and put a Bosch 2 wire IAC in line in the IAC tube. Lots of cars european used them so they're generally easy to find and don't often fail.

There's really no point checking a car that old. The most you'll get is a few random title or registration activity listings and maybe a state safety or emissions inspection here or there. Nothing really useful, and nothing that looking at the car won't tell you. Call or go to DMV with the VIN and just make sure the title is clear. Buy, and enjoy.

This is a common problem on the 90-91 years. The common fix is to swap the wire harness to run the 3 wire IAC. I don't recall specifics on this off the top of my head. Lots of info on the swap at LegacyCentral.org though.

Caster is the angle of the centerline of the steering axis. The angle off vertical from the upper ball joint or strut mount to the lower ball joint. On the rear this would be from the upper strut mount to the trailing arm bushing, but its not a measured angle during an alignment since the rear wheels don't steer. Caster being off will not be visible to the naked eye without there being very obviously damaged suspension parts, mostly the trailing arms. Camber is the angle of tilt of the top of the wheel towards or away from the vehicle. Camber being off can cause horrible tire wear, and can cause the car to lurch towards the side the wheels lean towards when hitting large bumps at highway speed. It will not cause drastically different wheel speeds from side to side, thus no effect on the differential.

I haven't ever run across a clogged metal evap line but if a big enough chunk of carbon from the canister makes its way up there it would certainly clog it. Compressed air might blow it out but if not I would just bypass it altogether and run a hard plastic line. A clogged evap line will not cause the problems you're having though. It will eventually set a code for Evap purge flow insufficient, if the line is actually clogged, but will not cause any driveability issues. Rough/ low idle and poor throttle response are often caused by a vacuum leak. If you've been messing around in the area of the purge solenoid, make sure the vacuum hose that runs to the Fuel presssure regulator didn't get knocked off. P0130 indicates the ECU is not getting a signal from the front O2 sensor. If you just replaced that sensor you'll want to make sure its plugged in all the way (they can be difficult to get clicked all the way together). Then check the wiring for cuts or breaks. Make sure the wires on the sensor are not rubbing against the cv axle.

IIRC those heads also have issues with the valve guides dropping and holding the valves open. Yes, likely two separate issues. More than likely the knock sensor code is just because the sensor is bad (very common). The possible valve issue will need more looking into before pulling the head again.

Other side. Right side from inside the car. Here's a pic of the cover. You can see the hole in the pic as well. You'll see it from the opposite side.

TCU codes have to be retrieved manually via the secret handshake method and counting blinking of the AT Temp light. The flashing AT Temp light means there are codes stored in the TCU. Search here or google for the procedure. I think it may be in the USRM.

A flashing CEL indicates a condition which has the potential to damage the catalytic converters by flooding them with raw fuel. Usually this is due to a steady misfire. Low RPM stumbles and shaky idle, smooths out at higher RPM, probably a burned exhaust valve. Time for a compression or leakdown test.

Fuel pressure low?

It is, no doubt. Just another way for manufacturers to claim X% of emissions reduction to help satisfy tighter EPA standards. With the recent push toward electricity, most new (2012+) cars now have electric assist power steering. Most of which actually eliminate the hydraulic component altogether. There are also electrically driven AC compressors. Fine and dandy until the wires get corroded.

I've always had good luck with Standard wires on other cars, but the Subarus are especially picky. Make sure the wires are clicked on properly. Try swapping the number 4 wire with number one and see if the misfire moves with it. If the plugs were changed before the head gaskets were done they could be fouled. I would pull the plug on cylinder 4 and check it for buildup.

Knock sensors do cause all sorts of issues but not typically at idle. How old are the spark plugs and wires? These are the usual cause for misfires.

That is exactly why. Reduce engine load and there-by reduce emissions. It's usually just done with a hydraulic pressure switch on the power steering pressure line.

Not the same wiring. You'll need to use the 96 intake manifold and sensors. Easy swap since the wire harnes comes off attached to the manifold. You may also need to find a dual port exhaust y-pipe. Most 96 had single port heads. The 92 will have dual port.