Fairtax4me

Trans may have a bad main shaft bearing. Hard to say. Even if you don't feel any play in the input shaft there still may be bearing damage. Cables should be straightforward. Clutch cable runs up along the top of the trans. The hill holder cable runs between. the intake runners and out behind the intake. Bracket that holds it bolts to the block just in front of the release lever. Adjust the clutch cable first so you have 1/4" of play at the top of the fork. Turn the adjusting nut on the hill cable until it just pulls against the spring on the holder valve. The holder should pull the release lever forward just ever so slightly. Properly adjusted it will hold the car from rolling backwards on a moderate hill but will not prevent it from rolling forward.

Possible the valve cover gaskets are leaking and oil is blowing back when the car is moving. Get a couple cans of brake cleaner and blast all the crud away. Warm the engine up and see if you can tell where the source of the leak is.

There are two pressure sensors and the oil flow control solenoid for the variable valve timing system. Which part is leaking on yours?

We certainly can't fix it, we don't have the car in front of us! Glad you found the issue and posted an update. Shouldn't be that difficult to get codes. Pin in the diagnostic connector just needs to be grounded to get the light to flash. Possible the ground for the diagnostic pin is bad or there's a break in the wire between the connector and the airbag module. Looks like they changed the diagnostic connector in the legacy after 2000. White with 8 pins.

Basically the latch is still locked. The lock mechanism inside the latch is broken or jammed and even though you can move the lock lever (on the latch) it isn't allowing the release lever to engage. Only two things you can really do: 1. Access and/or Remove the latch mechanism on the passenger door and play with it to see where and how the release lever works and figure out where and how to push/pull on the latch to get it to release. B: Start cutting with a dremel and destroy the latch so you can force it open. Either way, once the door is open the latch mechanism will need to be replaced.

Sounds like it. Typically the entire reel/belt assembly has to be replaced when the pre-tensioners go off.

Which diag plugs are you working with? SRS is in the small black 6-pin plug.

Has to be from a 96-99 Legacy Outback with manual trans. You can make one work from a Legacy L, Base, or GT model with a manual trans, but the center carrier bearing is different on those and sits higher up. You will have to install spacers and use longer bolts to bring the carrier down where it's supposed to be.

If the pressure control solenoid checks out the problem might be caused by a failed fuel tank pressure sensor or wiring to the sensor. The tank pressure sensor is mounted in the trunk/cargo area right side behind the trim panels kind of near the strut tower. Typically those sensors don't fail, a wire problem or dirty /corroded connection in the harness that runs along the right side floor pan is more likely. Testing the sensor is simple with a voltmeter. It should have a 3 wire plug. Check one outer pin for 5v supply voltage from the ECU by back probing the pin with it still plugged in. Check the opposite pin for continuity to ground. Check the center pin for signal voltage back to the ECU. High voltage (near 5v) on the center pin would indicate a poor ground (corroded/dirty connector) between the sensor and ECU. Low voltage ( near 0V) at the center pin could mean either the signal wire is shorted to ground or the sensor is bad. Low voltage on the supply pin (less than 4v) is a dirty/corroded connector somewhere between the ECU and sensor. There are a few connectors in that harness that are typically accessible by removing the trim/kick panels that run along the floor on the right side. IIRC there are another few connectors under the rear seat bottom cushion. One other thing you can check which may cause this code is the purge control solenoid below the #3 intake manifold runner. I've had several purge solenoids clog or get partially stuck open by debris. Usually it causes an evap leak code to be set, but it could cause other codes as well. Test it the same way you tested the pressure solenoid.

If changing wheels made no difference it's not a wheel balance issue. It's sound like you have either a bad cv axle, or a locked up u-joint on the driveshaft. Either one poses a high risk for damage if it breaks. If the steering wheel is shaking side to side it's more likely to be an axle problem. If everything is vibrating up and down, that's more likely to be from the driveshaft.

97 has a sensor on the side of the trans. Could be a failed sensor, or the little spade that turns the sensor could be broken.

Unbolt the center flange behind the carrier bearing and remove the whole rear half of the driveshaft. Leave the front section in place.

Can't say I've ever had a problem with them. Pull the dipstick out, wipe it, put it back in, then pull out once more for the reading. I generally wait 5 minutes or so with a warm engine to check the oil. Cold engine you shouldn't even need to wipe the stick. One thing that may help is to make sure the dipstick is oriented the same way each time, and if you get inconsistent readings, flip it the other way. Also if you have to pull the stick more than 2-3 times trying to get a reading, it will pull some oil up the tube and that will alter the readings after that.

Are you trying to measure the length of the belt? Or the tension on the belt?

It can be after the rear cat and the rear o2 sensor. When the engine is decelerating (slowing to a stop or going downhill, foot off the pedal) air will travel up the exhaust stream towards the engine. Even though it's only for a short time, it's sometimes enough to change the reading of the rear sensor enough to cause the code to set.

If the AC button is On or front defrost is on and blower fan control is on, the fans will run with key On engine Off. ECU thinks the AC is on, so it commands the radiator fans to run.

A leak at the joint directly behind the rear cat can pull enough air in to alter the reading of the rear sensor.

Amazon $90 Dealer around 150, maybe a little less. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001T9FV9Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498014330&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=subaru+NTN+timing+tensioner

They charge premium prices on the cheapest windshields. I've had issues with safelite installs in the past such as leaking and trim pieces that won't stay in place even if they're "brand new" trim. Even have customers who share the same experience. They also (at least in my area) tend to not show up when they say they're going to be there at a certain time. Im not talking 15-30 minutes difference, I mean 2-3 hours late with no call or explanation. I've dealt with enough windshield companies that I've found a local installer who does very good work and has on several occasions been on site 45 minutes after I call, correct windshield installed in 30 minutes for quite a bit less than what safelite charges. YMMV

Not likely. You'll get EGR codes but not a MAP code unless there's a broken vacuum line to the EGR. The MAP and EGR vacuum hoses should not be connected since the parts are on opposite sides of the engine. 99% of the time MAP codes after an engine swap are due to incorrect routing or disconnected vacuum hoses that go to the MAP sensor. Focus on those first.

Sounds more like an exhaust restriction to me. Back pressure is building on hard acceleration and is forcing its way out through a leak somewhere in the exhaust. Loosen the bolts at one of the flanges so you have a small gap between the pipes and take it for a quick drive and see if it still has the power loss.

For starters, don't call safelite... Keep calling around. Try calling another dealer or two.

Vacuum lines aren't hooked up right. If the hood is original make sure your lines match up to the emissions sticker on the hood.

Tapping sounds can usually be tracked down with a stethoscope. At least narrow it down to one side of the engine or the other. Front/rear, or left/right. It would also be helpful to know exactly which engine you have. Like GD said it could have been swapped at some point.

Charge is too low, or the radiator fans are not running when the AC is on. More than likely it's because the charge is low.