Fairtax4me

Manufacturers build alot of wire harnesses. To save costs they build the harness with most of the common optional items already wired in, then just leave out the component. That way they build only one or two main harnesses, instead of 12. The loop connector pictured is very commonly found when an electrical component is left out. Something like a remote start module would possibly plug into there if the car were equipped from the factory. There is a black 6 pin diagnostic connector under the drivers dash. Two black wires with male spade terminals on the ends are taped to or near the harness for that plug. They are simply ground wires for the diagnostic plug. I'm not sure these wires are connected in any way to the horn or security system. Can you get a picture of the two wires you taped together?

It's aluminum so its easy to tap some threads in it and screw in a brass nipple from the hardware store. Use thread compound or a little Indian head shellac to seal it up.

The AT/MT identifier pin on the ECU needs to be grounded to set the ECU to MT mode. The plugs on the trans are Vehicle speed sensor, neutral position switch, and reverse light switch. Speed sensor plugs should be the same, if not its only two wires and they should be the same colors. Reverse light switch can just be connected to the reverse light wires on the AT Park/Neutral switch plug. Neural position switch is there to tell the ECU when the shifter is in gear or in neutral. This needs to be hooked up or the ECU will set IAC codes. You'll need the FSM to find the correct pins on the ECU for this, as well as the MT identifier pin. FSM will also help with wire colors for the reverse light switch and the VSS. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Could be tired/worn out starter motor. Make sure battery connections are tight and clean. Be sure to check connections on the starter as well like Rooster said. If those check out Strip back a little insulation (about an inch) on the battery cables and see if there is heavy corrosion up inside the cables.

The compressor stops running for two main reasons. One is because the pressure in the system gets too low. The other is when the evaporator core gets too cold. The compressor will be shut off to prevent icing of the evaporator. The compressor will cycle much more often due to this if you have the control head set to recirculate, but the air should still be COLD since the air moving across the evaporator core will be pulled from inside the car. If the compressor is cycling and the air is not cold, the charge is probably too low. On newer vehicles the control module will stop the compressor if the throttle is wide open, or if the steering wheel is turned more than a certain amount when the vehicle is sitting still or moving very slowly. Neither of these will apply if the compressor is cycling while driving at a steady speed.

And there-in lies a problem. OEM plug is copper. NGK BKR6E-11. If you want to use platinum, they need to be Double platinum. The waste spark ignition will wear the ground electrodes of single platinum plugs on one bank. 2/4 bank is the negatively polarized side of the coil, and you'll probably find severaly worn ground electrodes on those plugs. Run doubles or run copper.

Can you describe what you mean by startup hesitation in a bit more detail?

Find the plug for the seatbelt under the seat. Unplug it. The old ones were one wire and this works. Not sure in the new ones but worth a quick look under the seat.

Does it crank fast and smooth? Check timing belt. Usually the toothed idler locks up and shreds the belt.

New PCV valve? Is it Subaru or aftermarket? I have seen problems with aftermarket PCV valves. Did you reseal the oil pan? There is an o-ring on the tube in the pan that seals against the block where the separator plate chamber is. If that o-ring is gone it will suck oil through there and increase consumption. Low idle when warm could be dirty or misadjusted idle air control. Or the throttle cable could be just a little too tight.

Tighten the Crank pulley bolt to at least 140 ft lbs. Many times the torque specs are listed in the exploded views, but not in the repair sections. All of the torque specs will be the same for a Legacy. you can get a Legacy Factory service manual here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

It's not common for the flex plates on these to crack but it is possible. Torque converter problems are very rare. There is an access hole in the top of the bell housing on the right half of the block. Sort of below the throttle body. Remove the black plastic cover plug and make sure the torque converter bolts are all tight. Beyond that you would need to pull the engine to inspect the flex plate.

Single Platinum or double platinum? It makes a difference in waste spark systems. Did you try to re-gap the plugs before putting them in? That's a big no-no with platinum and iridium plugs. I would put a set of regular copper plugs in it and see what happens. This is not possible unless both cams are drastically out of time. The intake and exhaust valves are not open at the same time on the same cylinder when the timing marks are aligned. So if the cam snaps out of place, the valves simply close. There is a slight amount of "overlap" where the valves will be open at the same time, but they are open only slightly, and only for about 30° of camshaft rotation. For any valves to collide they would have to be nearly wide open.

There will be other issues with trying to bolt the 04 trans in. Easy enough to overcome if necessary, but you're better off to just get the right thing. Check car-part.com. Cars in your year range will show matching transmissions from 95-98. Just be sure to check for 2.2 and L, Base or Brighton model in the listing. Outback or GT models have 4.11 ratio and will not work.

On later models there are two green plugs under the dash on the drivers side near the column. Connecting those then turning the key ON puts the ECU in Test Mode and will cause all of the relays and solenoids in the car to cycle, including the fan relays. Generally only one fan (secondary or sub fan) will run with the AC running. The other fan (main fan) will only run if the coolant temp is above a certain point, but still well below the point of overheating. Generally just letting the car idle (no AC) will cause the main fan to cycle after the engine gets fully warmed up. If the engine is warmed up and the AC is on the main fan and sub fan may run at the same time, but not always.

There is no position adjustment for the slave cylinder. The spring inside the cylinder sets pre-load and can not be adjusted. The master cylinder pushrod can be adjusted in order to adjust pedal height. This does not affect the slave cylinder rest position. Unless the squeal gets worse I wouldn't worry about it.

P0741 is for the Torque Converter Clutch solenoid circuit performance / stuck. P0700 is transmission control MIL request. Probably just a benign secondary code generated when the TCU sends info to the ECU to light the MIL (Check engine light). This will likely go away once the TCC solenoid issue is fixed. First things first. What is the fluid condition? Is it old? Burned? Cruddy fluid can cause the TCC solenoid to jam and not respond. New fluid may be able to dislodge the solenoid and restore proper operation for about $80 if you can change the transmission fluid and filter yourself. Worst case you have to replace the solenoid which could be anywhere from $500 -$1000 or possibly more between parts and labor, depending on the labor rates of the shop that does the repair. If you're a DIY person the solenoids are sometimes easily removed once the transmission pan is off. But this particular solenoid may require removal of the valve body to get access.

How old are the plugs? What brand and type are they? Copper, platinum, Iriduim? Spring pressure closes the valves. If a cam slips out of position the valves are closing, and would not be able to hit another already closed valve. Have you checked Valve lash clearance? It's common for the 25D to burn exhaust valves, though that typically only occurs in one cylinder.

Assuming the clutch disc is installed properly (it is directional), what you're seeing is normal. Here is a picture of a properly installed non-turbo clutch:

Cam sprocket has 7 tabs to differentiate cam position at TDC. Crank sprocket has only 6 tabs. ECU needs input from both sensors in order to time both spark and injectoin properly. Failure of either sensor will give a no-run condition. I haven't tested this myself, but its generally believed that the crank sensor is responsible for spark, and the cam sensor triggers fuel.

X2 Check the reluctor teeth on the crank sprocket. One is probably chipped off and the ECU is not getting the proper signal for 3/4 to fire.

There will be instructions with the controller (assuming you buy new) for how to connect the wiring and set it up. 2000 lbs is a pretty big chunk to lug around. If the car has an automatic trans I would suggest adding an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler.

I know there were some problems with the Legacy platform in the 2005-07ish years with a connector getting corroded causing all sorts of problems. Any module connector on the network can send erratic signals if there is corrosion between the pins. Do some digging around in the Subaru forums and you may find a similar answer for this problem. I have a hard time believing the BIU has just gone bad on a seemingly decent car. Water damage could be a possibility.

Tap the lower starter hole in the trans for an M12 bolt and do a little trimming with a dremel in the bottom hole on the starter so the bolt fits through. Doesn't need much. If you have a 12mm drill bit that makes really quick work. I've seen adapters for one of the turbo manifolds IIRC. Doesn't seem like they would be too hard to make.

You replaced the lock cylinder? Did you replace the key as well? I've seen them be very difficult and very easy. Haven't done one on a Subaru yet. The headless screws aren't that difficult to deal with. A couple whacks with a small flat punch is sufficient to make a notch for a flat screwdriver. Then they can be replaced with a regular hex or socket cap screw. Worst comes to worst a hack saw takes care of them pretty easy. Or a dremel if you can maneuver it into place.