Fairtax4me

P0026 and P0028 codes are for the variable camshaft timing solenoids. Specifically these codes are for the low oil pressure switches located on the solenoids. If the oil level gets low enough these codes may trigger because of a lack of oil. The difference between "Full" on the dipstick, and not showing at all is about 2 quarts. I would guess you're losing closer to 3 quarts of oil based on the codes above. 2 quarts in 2,000 miles could easily be from a bad PCV valve or clogged PCV hoses. You may be losing more due to external leaks such as the separator plate or valve cover gaskets. P0420 can be caused by a clogged PCV valve or hoses since this causes excessive amounts of oil to be forced into the combustion chambers and burned off as you drive. Oil affects the burn rate of the fuel/air mixure and can damage the catalytic converters.

You connected the EGR to the PCV hose? This is probably the problem. Connect your EGR pipe directly to the intake tube over near the IAC hose. With it connected to the PCV tubing the EGR is pulling vacuum on the PCV which is pulling more vacuum than normal in the crankcase. The PCV system is designed to pull only a certain amount of air through the crankcase. You may have doubled or even tripled the amount of air being sucked through the crankcase and its pulling oil out with it. I have two EJ22s, over 235k miles on each, which I run exclusively on 5w-30 oil.

Losing signals could either be a loose connection at the DLC or just a firmware glitch in your scanner. If the ECU loses sensor signals there will be misfires or the engine will just stall. 96 EJ22 has three timing covers. The end covers are removeable without removing the crank pulley. I would expect there to be misfires or other problems if the timing is off.

So the wheel appears to be closer to the body of the car? Make sure all tires are aired up to the correct pressure. Park on level ground and measure from the wheel center to the bottom lip of the fender. Compare left to right. A weak spring will cause one corner to sit the lowest and the opposite corner to sit the highest.

I think its easier to just pull the trans, but it depends on what equipment you have available. Do you have large jack stands (18" or taller) and a large floor jack? You really can't put a jack under the pan on these transmissions without a transmission adapter. The pans deflect very easily and can damage the solenoids and wiring on the bottom of the valve body. Because of that you need lots of room to roll the trans under while its on top of whatever contraption you find to roll it around on. A furniture dolly works well but they're usually 4-5" tall. A transmission jack adapter is usually taller.

Checked the FSM. The Parking brake switch and the Low fluid level switch are wired in parallel. Either one will ground the circuit and will turn off the DRLs. If the brake fluid level was not low, the level switch probably isnt the problem. Sometimes they get stuck if the level gets low. Usually a tap on the side of the reservoir with a screwdriver handle will joggle it loose. The parking brake switches are usually open to dirt/dust and the contacts can get dirty and/or sticky from a spilled drink.

Well that sucks! Glad you're Ok. I hear ya about those airbags. They're not exactly soft!

Loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine, or use a prybar to slide the engine over a bit.

It's in the tank. A little bulb thing on the side of the main fuel pump assembly. Most likely the connectors in the plug on top are corroded or a mouse chewed the wires. There's an access panel in the floor pan of the cargo area behind the right rear seat.

Probably just a loose or poor connection somewhere. The illumination control module is attached to the back of the lower trim panel under the steering column. Two screws to remove and that pops off and you can check the connector on the module. The bulbs in the HVAC head burn out, but are replaceable. You have to remove the unit to get access to the bulbs. Use 7219 bulbs from radio shack.

Looks the same doesn't mean it is the same. There are two different final drive ratios and that has to match or you'll have problems. What trim model do you have and what model did the trans come from? Why did you remove the front diff housing? Did you try to swap diff housings? Did you fill the front diff with gear oil?

I haven't heard of anyone doing that before. This reinforces the point to pay close attention to details when disassembling and reassembling something. Glad to hear its running!

Maybe they were made by GM. I don't think a push button is necessary either. It's an ugly work around. Fine for temporary, but it doesn't take that much effort to address and fix the real problem.

You can use 2.25-2" reducer and just clamp it.

Any Legacy L, Brighton, or base model, 95-98. Wagons and sedans. Impreza from 93-98 as long as it has a 2.2 engine.

Spark, and fuel? Those are the first two things to confirm. Was the fuel pump aftermarket? Did you check the connector on top of the pump assembly for corrosion?

If you move one does the other move with it? There are nylon-plastic bushings on all the pivot points for the arm linkage. If only one arm moves the bushing on the lever for that arm is broken. If both move its probably the one at the wiper transmission lever.

96 you could probably use a universal fine, but Rockauto carries Denso direct fit for under $50 last I checked. To reset fuel trims unhook the battery - for ten minutes. Otherwise it takes 3-4 drive cycles and in the meantime you're still burning up a ton of fuel.

These use JRA style valve cores. A standard core tool will not fit over them. A few seconds with a dremel should widen the gap enough to make it work.

Well there's yer problem right there! It looks like they tried to solder it? Or its just a bad brazing job. Lean = heat, but it may not be the whole problem. Either way, that needs a new cap.

PCV can cause problems but it wont knock fuel trims off by 20%. That's probably a bad front O2 sensor. Dirty MAF can throw off fuel trim but usually causes other problems.

I'm not sure what the 2 digit codes are. There are lots of them though! Just look for an ECU for the same year model and engine. The part numbers and codes aren't big factors.

Leaking vacuum hose, leaking diaphragm on the cruise servo, or badly misadjusted cruise cable.

Find a tire shop about 30 minutes outside of the city. Much lower prices in the country. I agree though. If it'll be your winter car put a set of snow tires on it. SnowTrakkers or WinterForce are good and usually pretty cheap in the size you need.

The one with 12v on it with the key on.