Fairtax4me

Probably running a little too lean. How old are plugs wires and filters? PCV valve?

Automatic belts? They're notorious for having problems. Usually they get stuck halfway or something. Most people just unplug them.

Sway bar does look a little bent but that won't cause a serious toe problem. Can't see much bend in the lateral links from those angles. Need to look at them from the wheel end going towards the center of the car or vice versa. What does the left side look like?

There isn't much in the way of "good" unless you want to spend way too much on dealer parts. I like Bosal stuff on Rockauto.com. I've had good luck with fitment of their parts, and they seem to resist rust fairly well. Walker makes a ton of exhaust parts as well. Either brand will only last a few years though and then be rusted out again, but it may last until you're ready to get rid of the car.

Those are pretty far off. Rear lateral links are likely bent. That much should be visible Also possible the alignment person does not know that both front and rear links can be adjusted. This effectively doubles the range of adjustment.

I was thinking of the Power mode switch on the older models. But it does seem like there should be a way to command the duty C to full lock of the AWD clutch without freaking out the TCU.

Ah, I see what's going on. The Subaru VSS does send an 8 pulse signal, which their unit is probably designed to replicate. Easy fix, grab a Subaru speedometer/ instrument cluster at a junkyard. The Subaru unit has a circuit that converts the 8 pulse signal from the speed sensor (pretty much all digital speed sensors create an 8 pulse signal) to the signal the Subaru ECU likes. I think its supposed to be a 4 pulse signal, but it could be 5. Either way, it will satisfy your needs, and will be cheaper than buying a corrector box or finding a sensor that delivers the correct signal. The trick may be figuring out how to keep the important parts of the speedometer unit without having the whole cluster tucked under the dash somewhere. From what I understand the wiring to the speedometer is pretty simple, but I've never had one apart so I'm not sure just how much of the cluster circuit board you'll need.

Yes. Just remove the belt and turn the cam back the 3-4 teeth it needs. It doesn't need to be spun all the way around. The timing mark for the drivers side is the small notch cut out in the rear cover just above the sprocket. When you get the belt installed, if you find that the mark on drivers sprocket is not quite lined up, make sure its towards the drivers side of the notch (towards the fender).

Where is this thing hooked up? Are you using a VW trans?

More than likely the lateral links are bent or compressed. They are a weak point designed to bend to prevent damage to the frame. Easy to find in junkyards and usually pretty cheap. But Ive seen the bolts that hold the rear subframe to the chassis get bent. This shifts the whole rear subframe to one side and can throw off toe. Do you have a printout that says what the current measurements are?

Passenger side is WAY off. The hash mark is between the Pink and white paint marks. Like it up with the seam in the head so the mark points straight up. Drivers side looks OK but you need to put a wrench on it and turn it counter clockwise a hair to make sure ALL of the slack is out of the belt along the bottom. The belt should be tight along the bottom stretch. If there is any looseness there the driver side cam will be pulled out of place when you pull the tensioner pin. I found that the drivers cam generally will be a half tooth off of the mark in the cover. It's best to have the mark on the sprocket towards the drivers side of the mark in the cover.

Check Car-part.com

Yes. Most are limited to 120mph. Can you alter the ouput of the digital unit you have?

Isn't there a way to trigger that without confusing the TCU? I thought there was a pin on the TCU that could be powered or grounded and the TCU would command full lock of the AWD clutch? The FWD fuse works that way as far as I know. Just commands full unlock instead. I've never checked to see if this is reversible without cycling the key.

You don't adjust it. A dealer may be able to change the set pressure via computer. Keep in mind when dealing with TPMS that the pressure sticker in the door jamb states COLD TIRE PRESSURE. Tires should only be set at these pressures if the car has been sitting overnight. Even slight warming of the tires will raise the air pressure inside, whether its from driving or from exposure to sunlight. If you drive the car to the gas station, check the pressures, and let air OUT to get back to the pressure on the sticker, you WILL get a TPMS light the next morning because of the pressure drop in the tires overnight as the tires cool. If the tires are warm, inflate to 3-5 psi over the sticker pressure. This will keep the pressure at or slightly above the recommended cold pressure after the tire cools and will keep the TPMS light monster away.

Get some stiff foam pad from a fabric store. Cut sections to match the shape of the ones in the seat. Not too bad to do if you have a good sharp knife. Razor blades work as well just takes a few extra swipes.

Wiseco are lower compression ratio pistons. 140 isn't out of the ballpark for a built turbo motor. How far is the left side advancing?

If the stock bolts do not provide enough adjustment, either the strut or lower control arm is bent.

I just replaced a rear brake line on a 2004 Silverado a few weeks ago at work. It was rusted badly in multiple areas the entire length of the line from the ABS module, which is mounted under the drivers floor board, all the way to the rear axle. It had blown out just above the fitting where it joins the rubber hose going to the axle. The other lines that went to the ABS module were also rusted, though not nearly as badly as the rear brake line.

Ah ok. I'm not sure if there is a way to retrieve airbag codes on that year. I know there is a method to get diagnostic codes to display on the dash, but I don't know the steps involved to do so. That may also display airbag codes, but I'm not sure. Often an intermittent code can be due to a bad clockspring assembly behind the steering wheel. This isn't really a wear part but its the only constantly moving part of the airbag system as it connects the wiring for the drivers airbag. It consists of a thin ribbon cable with many small wires that do occasionally break internally.

I think the fuel pump cap issue was resolved around 2005 when they switched to the plastic canister style fuel sender unit. I'm not sure when they changed this on non US models, but I would think this wouldn't be a problem on an 07. Is this something that happens every day? Or only once in a while?

Sometimes with the first can you have to manually jump the compressor to get it to take the rest of the can. The valves can get stuck occasionally when removing the manifold hoses. Keep a small screwdriver handy to pop the core up and down a few times with. That usually gets them to seat.

5 psi is very little refigerant. Normal system pressure wih engine off is around 90-110psi. Check the bottom corners of the condenser for wet/dark appearance or oily crud buildup. This is a common leak point on the older Legacys. Same with the o-rings on top of the compressor. If you have the system open the compressor o-rings only take a minute to replace and are good measure for preventing future leaks at the compressor.

Recheck any Yellow connectors you may have unplugged while hunting around under the seat. Yellow connector or wire loom is used exclusively for Airbag related circuits. All of these connectors have shorting locks which prevent static discharge reaching the airbag inflator when the connector is unplugged. An extra lock on the connector sometimes has to be clicked after the connector is plugged in. If the shorting lock is not clicked, the circuit is shorted to ground and the module deactivates the entire airbag system.

Stainless steel generally does not have the pressure capacity for automotive brake lines. It can when its new, but bending the line weakens it. But there are plenty of alloys out there that have a high burst strength and can maintain that strength after bending, while also being able to withstand a corrosive environment.