Fairtax4me

It's possible Trans-D is marketed under a different name in Canada. Rooster, is there a difference in the formulas between the 15oz and 32oz bottles? I ask because I've used both in my friends 99 forester which has the DFE problem. Either one seems to work for about 6 months, then the DFE comes back.

People do it all the time. It may ping on regular, but will be fine on premium. Can't make phase 2 heads work in a 96 without aftermarket engine management. Cheaper and easier to use the phase 1 2.2 heads, intake, and wiring that he already has. Phase 1 heads will provide better torque. Use your 2.2 flywheel. From what I remember there were differences between the 2.2 and 2.5 starter, and you use the flywheel that matches your starter. In your case, you already have both, so just re-use them. Have the flywheel machined flat when you do the swap. Use a 96-99 2.5 clutch. The 2.5 clutch pressure plate has a higher clamp strength. This is the only difference between the 2.2 and 2.5 clutch. Clutch disc dimensions, spline count, TOB size, pilot bearing size are all the same. Use Y-pipe/header to match the heads. Single or dual port. Stock pipes work fine. There any many options for dual port headers in Internet land. Inferno Fabrications makes stainless single port UEL headers for these.

There is a banjo bolt for the oil supply line on the turbo that can loosen and leak oil. It's recommended to remove the banjo bolt, install new copper washers and make sure the small screen filter in the banjo bolt is clean before re-installing. There is also a known issue with one of the oil lines running to the turbo. Subaru has a TSB about it. I don't recall if it was the supply line or the drain line that had the issue.

Certainly! There's the Historic Subarus forum.

TheUjointstore.com TUS-10 U-joint. The staking isn't that tough to cut off of the old joint. Then just press the new one in. This can be done with a large C-clamp believe it or not.

Yeah I don't think this one will be able to spot a leaking head gasket. Take the car to a mechanic to have it checked over. Someone who works on Subarus on a regular basis will be the biggest help.

I would have to suspect a chafed wire causing a short, or a poor connection. Possibly a bad relay or circuit breaker. Is there a lock button on the other door as well? (I'm not that up to date on the interiors of the newer models)

The parts store PCV valves can cause more problems than they fix. Oil consumption, idle problems, they also clog easier and wear out faster.

Did you change the plugs when you did the wires? Have you had the timing belt changed? You're 2 years and 15k miles overdue for it.

MAF sensor will be the little box in the intake tube right by the air filter housing. http://m.instructables.com/id/How-to-check-and-change-a-Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-for/ 2002 may not have one. The mushroom thing you found on the throttle body is the Idle Air Control Valve. Those do occasionally need to be cleaned, so you've definitely done some good for that. Rough running can be caused by many things though. Do you know anything about the maintenance history? Always good to start with a fresh set of NGK spark plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and a fresh Subaru PCV valve.

Is the AC on when it does this? You will definitely feel differences in power when the AC is on due to the compressor engaging and disengaging. Is it set on Re-circulate or Max AC? Does turning OFF the Re-circulate or Max AC setting change anything? Does turning off the AC altogether change anything?

Lift kit. Mud tires. Rally bar on the front with some 6" PIAA lights will go a long way too.

Go here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ and get the FSM for 96. There are quite a few wiring differences in that 5 year span.

Yes, there are a few threads about replacing the mainshaft ball bearing. The mainshaft ball bearing is on the back end of the main/input shaft. There is a roller bearing at the front, but it just slides off and hardly ever goes bad. The best thread for pictures is called Easy Transmission Front Seal Replacement, or something like that.

That type of head gasket failure is unusual for that engine. I agree with John, I would look closely for leaks first. A leak up high in the system may not allow much coolant out during normal operation, but could easily let air in while the system is cooling. A cooling system pressure test may pinpoint the source. A leakdown test would confirm the head gasket theory.

Pretty common for the metal piping there to rust. If the rust spreads up under the o-ring seal in the connector it would cause a leak. You will probably have to replace the entire fuel pump unit to repair that.

Id never pay that for some used mirrors. You can get folding mirrors in any junkyard for under $50 a pair. Also true JDM mirrors will have the curved mirror lens on the left, and a flat lens on the right which will be impossible to see anything out of. I have a set of white ones in the shed that need to be repainted. Metal bumper will have to be custom made. Gorilla Fabrications makes metal a front bumper for that car. Not sure about rear.

From that era you want to make sure the head gaskets have been changed. Timing belt is a major consideration as well since the change interval is every 105k miles. The manual trans has some issues with the AWD transfer gears, and the input shaft bearings will wear out around 200k. Auto trans are generally trouble free wih the exception of wear in the transfer clutch pack causing binding when turning. This is generally able to be repaired for around $500. Less if you can do the work yourself. Only requires basic hand tools. Other general things that apply to any used car like worn wheel bearings, brakes, rusted out exhaust, worn suspension parts are also likely. Other than body style, 2000-2009 are mechanically very similar and will have many of the same possible issues. 2000-2004 have some problems with the fuel pump which can cause hard starting and driveability issues but this is an easy fix for about $60.

Don't know about the mirror. Tweeters are easy to find in junkyards. All of the Legacys are pre-wired for them. 95-99 Legacy all have the same tweeter. 00-04 look the same but are not and will not fit.

Certainly seems like an electrical issue to me. I don't think its an issue of modules communicating. Did the dealer tell you which code(s) was set? There used to be a way to have the codes display on the dash, not sure if they kept that feature on the 2011 models.

Like Heartless said, nobody talks about them because nobody has one! Not entirely true. Nipper has one with under 50k original. Only drives it on the good weather days though. Rear bearings are the old style conical rolle,r easy to replace. If it needs a front bearing those may require a press.

Then I would do those first. Use a Subaru PCV valve. The aftermarket cheapos can cause oil consumption problems.

Seafoam doesn't clean the PCV valve. When poured into a vacuum line it cleans deposits from the intake manifold, the intake valves, and the combustion chamber and piston crown. If the car hasn't had a full tune-up recently, spark plugs, wires, air filter, PCV valve, doing that can go a long way.

See above. While performing functionality test, if the fan does not work check to make sure all 4 relays are clicking. The next step would be to check for voltage reaching the fan connector.

Test fan operation by connecting the green plugs under the dash on drivers side. Turn the key to On and all of the relays and solenoids will start to cycle. The main fan and sub fan are two speed fans and will cycle off, low, and high speeds in roughly two second intervals.