Fairtax4me

Probably a crimped/broken hose.

Surprised the axle didn't break... ! 0.o And this is the kind of people we share the roads with...

Are the hoses not the same as the USDM Legacy hoses 00-04? Or some other model maybe? Subarus since 00-ish seem to have the banjo fitting at the pump on the pressure hose. Some are different orientation (top mount vs side mount) but I think they're all the same size. Either way, take the hose with the proper fitting for your pump to the hydraulic shop and they can put that end on the new hose. Mixing and matching Hose ends is pretty common stuff.

check all the hoses and clamps on the intake tube.

Most hydraulic shops have everything to make an entirely new line. I had one go bad on an old dodge a while back and my local shop made everything except the fitting that threaded into the pump. The old fitting was OK, so he made a new steel line and put the old fitting on it before making the special flare on the end.

That's working exactly as it's supposed to. A properly working Subaru cooling system will be at full operating temp in about 8 minutes and the temp needle will sit like a rock at halfway and never move. Good idea to change the antifreeze if it's green. The green antifreeze needs to be changed every few years because it breaks down and deposits silts in the radiator and engine. Don't worry about Head gaskets. They're not bad. Leave them alone. If anything is leaking oil it will be valve cover gaskets or the cam plug seals. Both relatively easy replacements. If the cv axles have green paint on the joints, clean them and install new boots. Green paint is the marker of original Subaru axles and theyre the best axles you can have period. Even if they've been run dry and to the point of clicking, new grease and new boots and they'll be perfectly fine. Low idle could be a few things but start with new plugs and wires since it needs those to fix the misfire anyway. Find an exhaust shop (not a chain store) to have the exhaust welded to fix the leaks. Not very common to have squeaks from the timing idlers. Best way to narrow that down is to remove the alternator and AC belts one at a time and start the engine and see if the noise continues with those belts removed. If the noise is still there it's probably a timing part.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CNC-Heavy-Duty-Silicone-Lubricant/16817419?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4638&adid=22222222228000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-310687322322:pla-51320962143&wl5=1027070&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16817419&wl13=4638&veh=sem That's what I use. Spray it on both and pop them together quick because it dries in about 20 seconds.

No color codes in part numbers. Legacy is the model. Outback and Limited are trim levels. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/57120AE07A/ Fitment guide for Outback front left fender.

They do on the 00+ trans. The c-clip that holds the back plate on the diff will fly off and get chewed up in the transfer gears and make a mess of those. Plate pops off the diff unit and lets the whole thing come apart.

Like GD said. Replace the center diff while you have it apart. I would also replace any bearings on the transfer shafts that feel worn or make excessive noise. Haven't ever seen or heard of any bearings on the secondary going bad unless the trans has damage elsewhere. Those can be left alone as well as the needle bearings on the input shaft. Pretty sure the STI bearing won't fit, but I'm not 100% on that. The STI 6 speed trans uses a pressure lubrication system with a pump that's driven by the main shaft so pretty much everything is different on those.

Do an STI hub swap for the 114 lug pattern and you can run those wheels without the spacers so you have that deep dished look. But use a 16" wheel so you can fit larger brakes, and use a 4 or 4.5" backspace if they are available. Otherwise if you really want to run the spacers (not something I recommend) use a like a 1-1/4" spacer and get the wheels with a 5" backspacing.

So... You replaced the belt first right?

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2003.html Outback limited sedan. Paint color code is on the metal tag on top of the drivers side strut tower. Cleaner wax will take the rubber off the bumper. You'll have to remove the bumper to get to the bottom screws on the fender to remove that so you'll be able to see once the bumper is removed if any other brackets are bent. Usually the bumper brackets can be straightened well enough and put back on without needing to be replaced.

Should be quieter than stock. I've used the quiet flow mufflers on other vehicles before and they are very quiet. They generally last 3-5 years if you live in an area prone to rust.

Dealer wanted your money. Plugs and wires are a common maintenance replacement, but if it was running fine before it's likely they didn't need to be changed. Three things: 1:what kind of NGK plugs? Owners manual lists the part number for the proper plug for that engine. There should also be a sticker under the hood that says which plug should be used as well as the proper gap for the plugs. Using the wrong plugs can cause misfires. Setting the gap incorrectly can cause misfires. 2: Get NGK or Subaru OE plug wires. These engines don't tolerate cheap plug wires. 3: Put the original coil back on. Washer seat spark plugs generally will turn about 3/4 turn after the washer makes first contact. Once the washer crushes the plug will get alot harder to turn, that's when you stop turning. Something like 15-18ft lbs will be the final torque. I've always done it by feel.

What brand plugs, what brand wires? What was the coil replaced? Subaru coils almost never fail. Was this work done for preventative maintenance or to fix an existing problem?

On 97 you don't remove the inner stub from the trans. There's a roll pin in the cup that you knock out and the cup slides off the stub. Stub stays in the trans. If the new axle has a built in spline on the trans end it's the wrong axle.

Pretty sure the 2.2 and 2.5 used different flex plates/torque converters. If that's the case the trans may have come from an Impreza or older legacy with a 2.2. Torque converter should swap, but the bigger question I would have is if the final drive on the new trans matches the rear diff in the car. There's a VIN stamped on the side of the trans. Get the VIN to find out exactly what year/model the trans came from. The FDR can be determined from that to find out if that trans is going to work for you.

Battery dead or corroded terminals.

It could be that the lock is damaged or the child lock is on and the exterior door handle is broken. Remove the right side door panel and figure a way to stick a coat hanger in through the window slot to pop the door latch. Practice it a few times then try it on the broken door.

Throttle cable goes to the firewall. Cruise cable runs around to the cruise servo. Try cleaning and lubricating the linkage and return springs on the side of the throttle body. Blast away any dirt or old grease with brake cleaner then spray on some fresh white lithium grease and work the lever back and forth a few times and see if that helps. If it's sticking in the closed position, and then "popping" open when you put more pressure on the pedal, that's because the throttle plate is getting stuck in the throttle body bore. Remove the air intake box and thoroughly clean the plate and bore with a rag and throttle body cleaner. This usually fixes a sticking closed throttle. Also while you have the lithium grease out spray some on the pivot for the accelerator pedal. It's not common for those to stick but if there has ever been excessive moisture or mud/dirt inside the car it could cause the pivot to rust. The cable could just be dry or have some dirt/crud in the sheathing. Not common for them to fray, and if it did it would probably stick the throttle open. I've rehabbed quite a few stiff cables with PB blaster to get the dirt flushed out and followed up with chain& cable lube. It does require the cable be removed from the car though, so the lubricant can flow down through the sheathing as the cable is pulled back and forth.

How about if you give us a link to what you bought? Never heard of this type of balancer, but IMO there isn't anything wrong with the design of the original balancer. Lightweight styles are available for performance/looks. Otherwise the only reason to change it is if the original is damaged in some way, in which case a used one is like $40.

I don't get it. Looks like the trans is in nuetral. Hence the pin for the adjustment of the switch? Seems like you're trying to do too much at one time. Take the pin out. Move the selector lever on the trans all the way back. That's park. Move the shifter to park position. Install the cable end on the trans, turn the inner adjusting nut until it touches the sleeve on the lever. Tighten the outer nut. Now move the selector to neutral and adjust the switch to the proper position.

Pretty sure that's just how it is. Unless it would open itself before and now suddenly it doesn't, then I would assume this is normal operation. The torsion bars can usually be adjusted, and it's not that difficult to do, but be sure to use caution since they can cause severe injury if you lose your grip on the bar while moving it from one adjustment slot to the next.

To increase clearance: use a thinner shim. To decrease clearance: use a thicker shim. Take the clearance spec, subtract the current clearance, this gives you the change necessary to obtain the correct clearance. Measure the center of the current shim (where the valve stem makes contact) with a caliper. Subtract the change from the measurement of the current shim. So your shim measures 4.96 and you need .02mm more clearance, you need a 4.94 shim. If the shim says 499 but measures 496, compare the measurement of that shim with others and see if you get the same difference among the others. Those shims can wear a bit, especially where the valve stem makes contact.