Fairtax4me

Did you disconnect the plug and the charge cable? Do all the guages go crazy like that with the key in Off position? Crazy guages could mean a back feed from somewhere. Anything else like lights or radio affected by this?

Tube of RTV. O-ring for the access cover plate. Impact screwdriver for the screws on the separator and the access cover.

Part numbers may be available on Opposedforces.com

If the key is severely worn it may not turn the door lock cylinders without some wiggling and some luck. The key I have for my GFs 95 is worn down smooth and is quite tricky to use to open the doors or trunk. The key she has is a newer copy and is much less worn. It has no trouble opening the doors.

It is ridiculously difficult. Replacing the synchros is very time consuming and requires a press. The synchros which take the most beating (1&2) are on the counter shaft, and require disassembly of the entire shaft in order to replace. You then have to check and possibly reset the front pinion depth. At only 88k miles I would have to suspect water or other contamination of the fluid, or low fluid level to cause the whirring sound. This is typically due to a worn mainshaft rear bearing, but the bearings usually last about 150-200k miles before becoming an issue. Mainshaft bearing noise will coinside directly with engine speed. It may also vary depending on load. Check the input shaft for play. A small amount of side to side play is normal. Try to move the input shaft in and out. Any play in and out is a sign of a bad mainshaft bearing. Other possibilities are a worn bearing in the transfer housing. Any noise from the transfer housing will be wheel speed dependent. This can also vary some depending on load and can change during gear shifts as thrust loading of the transfer gears changes.

ECU grounds the fuel pump relay and fan relay to turn them on. Possible the ECU got cooked. The charger could have caused a high voltage spike. There was an issue on the 1st gen legacy where the voltage regulator in the alternator would go bad and send voltage back to the fuse panel that would cause weird problems. Could try unhooking the alternator and see if you have the same symptoms.

In that case I would use a prybar or screwdriver or whatever else to push the bucket down a little and pop the shim out with a magnet. Then get a new shim for it.

Happens all the time. Wiggle and twist and pull. When you finally get the thing out put a new O-ring at the top. Lubricate it with some fresh Dexron ATF. Soak the corner of a rag with some acetone or gasoline and stick it in the end of the dipstick tube and spin it around to dissolve any varnish.

Go to a dealer with your VIN and they can cut one for you. If your original key is the Subaru key with the 4 digit code stamped on it they can cut a new key from that code. The lock cylinder on the trunk lids aren't hard to swap. I can't imagine the one on the tailgate is much different. Usually consists of popping loose a plastic retainer tab on the lock rod, then sliding a metal clip out from the base of the cylinder. 95 could have a key fob but the keyless entry systems for the older cars are hard to find and pretty expensive. Very easy to install an aftermarket keyless entry system.

I did some searching on this and found no clear resolution. Alot of theories about bad solder joints, steering wheel volume controls, radio signal strength changes and such, but nothing that had a known cause and correction for the problem. Apparently, all the cars of that era came pre-wired to have steering wheel audio controls, which could mean a chafed wire or ungrounded wiring in that circuit picking up interference could be the cause. Ill have to check the FSM to see if the SWAC has a separate plug on the back of the head unit.

That engine should have the side feed injectors. If the lower O-rings aren't the correct type, or were damaged on installation, the fuel in the rails will leak around the injector directly into the manifold. I would pull the injectors and check the o-rings carefully. Before pulling the injectors out clear the fuel out of the rails by removing the fuel pressure regulator, then remove the outlet hose from the fuel filter and blow air into the hose to blow the fuel out of the rails.

Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Also check engine and chassis grounds, and the grounds for the ECU on the intake manifold. That ground is down low on the back corner of the manifold on the drivers side below where the fuel rail loops around the back of the manifold. Other than that. I would have to think the ignition switch is bad or the ECU fried. Might want to pull back the carpet on the passenger floor and check for water. The ECU is under the metal plate on the floor.

Very rare for injectors to go bad in these. You would have noticable power problems if the injectors were bad or clogged. How old are the spark plugs? How old is the Front O2 sensor? Front O2 sensor will read lean, causing the ECU to compensate by adding more fuel. Get an OBD2 scanner that can read live data, or get a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and compatible app for your smart phone. High fuel trims will tell if the ECU is adding fuel. I get about 24-25 city mpg from my 96. A bit lower if the AC is running. 27-28 on the highway with the lift kit and 4.11 final drive. You should be able to do 30 highway if you keep the rpms under 3,000.

Not very common for torque converters to fail. More likely for the flexplate to crack which can make a clicking or knocking sound. Or you could have a bad rod bearing. There is a small black cover on the bell housing passenger side top that can be removed for access to the 4 bolts that secure the torque converter to the flex plate. Make sure none are loose.

Possibly one of the injectors is improperly sealed. The o-ring style is very important and using the wrong o-rings can cause leaks. You could also have a broken or loose vaccum line.

Does it have steering wheel volume controls?

HC is measured in PPM. Unburned hydrocarbons generally means either poor injection spray pattern, or poor ignition leading to incomplete burn of the fuel. How old are plugs and wires? Does it get fuel system cleaner on a regular basis?

The ER HC issue is a High speed Can-bus error. It's a communications problem between control modules, not a sensor problem. The fix above was to clean the main grounds for the ECU where they attach to the intake manifold. It kinda looks like a spider.

X2I've run the 5w-30 Supertech in my 95 since I started driving it about 8 months ago and have no complaints. Over 10k miles so far. 236k on the engine. Supertech 80w90 gear oil in the trans is doing great as well. Around $14 / 5 qt jug of oil. $14 / gal for gear oil. Compare to $27 and $18 respectively at the auto parts store.

Usually if unsure about valve clearance you can just tap the valve stem with a hammer to open and reseat the valve. Not sure if that's doable with the DAMB. Maybe you can cut a small block of wood to fit around either side of the cam lobe and have the ends sit on the bucket.

What dealer is that? Mine only charges like $12. Gates makes a bypass hose that that I've bought from either Napa or Federated before. Not sure about Advancezone.

What kind of valve setup does that thing have? Rocker arms or direct overhead cam? Does that engine have a shared rocker arm for the intake side like the phase 1 EJ has?

What's the fluid condition? New? Old? Burned? Low? Engine problems can cause high shift points. When was the last tune-up? Does the engine run rough or feel shaky?

I've seen it plenty of times but not lately. Usually with really old belts. It starts as one tooth and snowballs from there.

When its really hot out these systems can have a hard time cooling the car, especially if its been sitting in the sun for several hours. The newer cars do generally run a lower pressure than that, which could mean it is overcharged. I would have to look up the recommended pressure to be sure. Are you the original owner of the car? Have you ever had the AC system serviced or charged The closest manual I have is for 2005, but the system should be the same as your 06. Pressure should be between 18-28 psi at 86-95 degrees outside temp. Now the guages on those cans are not exactly what I would call accurate, but I can't imagine its THAT far off. The only way you get overcharged though is if someone tried to charge it in the past and overfilled it. The R-134 systems generally start to leak around 5-7 years old and need to be re-charged. If you've only owned the car for a few months, then its likely the previous owner tried to recharge it.