Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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If you're doing any uphill rocky climbing, you'll probably want an automatic. If the outbacks were available with a dual range manual look for that. -
I've never used them. Don't know how their prices compare to FCPImport.com, but I can say that FCP has VERY GOOD customer service. I got an incorrect strut mount from them. Right part number on the box, wrong part in the box. They shipped me the correct part expedited AND paid for return shipping of the old part.
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96-99 outback struts will bolt right in and give you a 1" lift. Depending on your current tire size, switch into the Outback 205/70/15 tire can give you another 1". I have a grille that the slats all broke out of that I was considering putting mesh in. Looks like it would be easy, but I havent tried yet. I have seen a few mesh grills that people made themselves on other models.
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You can look them up in KYBs online catalog. They only list the Legacy model but have footnotes on the parts listings pertaining to specific sub-model/ trim levels.
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I've found missing parts listings like that before and most of the time my dealer was able to look up the parts and get correct part numbers. Not sure why they aren't listed on the opposedforces site.
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Thanks for the update!
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If you unplug one of the injectors and try to crank it, do you get a code for that injector?
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The aftermarket ones can sometimes have a larger or smaller hex than the stock one. No biggie if you have the proper size socket to fit. But if not, an axle nut socket can cost quite alot more than the new nut.
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There is a small black connector under the dash and one of the pins can be jumped to ground to make the Airbag module flash the codes via the airbag light on the dash. I don't remember the exact pin off hand but can look it up later. Most common reason for an airbag light is a bad clock spring behind the steering wheel. This can also cause the horn and cruise control to not work.
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The link was just to provide color reference. The newer axles have the inner stub built into the axle. The one you have is the correct style for that car. Anytime an axle is remanufactured they remove all paint and rust from the axle so it appears clean and new. Sometimes you get a cheap coat of silver rebuild paint to make it look shiny. An original Subaru axle would have been that style, but painted green on the cups. The green paint can flake off though, especially in rust-prone areas.
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The headlight lenses are easy to polish. Find a set of junkyard headlights without broken mount tabs and polish the lenses with a 3M kit. What year STI? Front seats should fit, though you may need to bend the front mount tabs a bit. Also need to swap your seatbelt buckles onto the new seats. Rear seats you have to match wagon to wagon, sedan to sedan. The Impreza seats may not be wide enough.
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I couldn't find anything by that part number Gloyale. Is it for a specific vehicle?
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Re-check for spark. Check for 12V getting to the injectors. Can you hear the pump prime when the key is turned On?
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What kind of car is it?
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Yeah, file it down smooth to keep the plates from hanging up. Use a wire wheel to smooth out any rough edges after filing.
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Hard to say. It'll run in open loop anyway because its cold, and if the injectors were working the mixture would be rich. Timing generally isn't a major factor until the engine gets warm, so running for 3-5 seconds with no load isn't much time to tell if timing is a problem. If MAF is bad the ECU will go into open loop when the MAF is unplugged. Unplugging the MAF would at least allow the engine to start and run if the MAF is the problem, though it won't run very well. Not sure why you don't get a code for it. Do you have solid 12v on all 4 injector wires at the ECU when cranking? Have you checked for continuity between the injector ground wires? ECU signals ground via the Intake manifold. Either on the lower rear corner on the drivers side, or on top center by the coil. 4 ground wires, all go through the largest plug on the bell-housing.
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DLC = Data Link Connector. It's the plug the scanner plugs into.
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Those don't look too bad compared to other pictures Ive seen. Do they look like they're more than half the thickness of the metal?
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With the key On the injectors will have 12V and you should see 12v at each injector ground wire at the ECU. If no or low voltage at the ECU pins, pull apart the three big plugs on the bell-housing and make sure theyre clean inside. No dirt or corrosion. Might want to check timing marks just to be sure. The tensioners on those engines are known to fail and let the belt skip.
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Subaru axle cups are green: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-cv-boots-and-axle-problems-explained/ If one axle is aftermarket, I would suspect that one is the one clicking.
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The DLC should also be powered when cranking the engine, see if the scanner turns on with key turned to start.
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The injectors will not pulse if there is an improper signal from either the cam or crank sensors. Was any recent work done to the car like timing belt replacement?
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The key needs to be ON for the DLC 12v pin to be powered. This is what powers the scanner when its plugged in. Also, the ECU needs to be Turned on in order for the scanner to communicate with it. This is also only possible with the key ON since the ECU turns off with the key off.
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Do you have any of the DTCs listed in the TSB? Failure of the engine to start could be a low battery voltage or power issue/blown fuse(s) like the TSB says. Check those first. Scan it for codes as well.
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There are many differences in coolants, even if they're the same color. Kinda have to look at the label pretty carefully to figure out what's actually in the jug. Subarus are pretty picky about coolant. Using the wrong kind can cause corrosion and high amounts of silicate dropout which can clog the radiator and heater core. Peak Brand is supposedly safe to use. Th green stuff you can use but you have to remember to change it every two years.
