Fairtax4me

That's the same way I've always done it. Probably need to check for voltage reaching the coil next. Center wire in the coil plug should be 12v. Is the coil thats on the engine now the original coil? I re-read most of this thread, I didn't see the year and model mentioned anywhere. So all you did was pull the engine to replace seals. Did you put new timing parts on it? The cam seals were replaced, did you make sure the cam sprockets got put back on the correct sides?

96-97 were changeover years. In 96 the cylinder heads changed from 2 (dual) exhaust ports to single exhaust ports. This helped increase torque at low RPM, but still retained the non-interference design. In 97 model year they changed the piston design to bump up compression from 9.5:1 to 9.7:1, which made it an interference engine. The only way to tell for sure if you have the interference piston design is to pull the heads off and look. The general consensus is that if you have a 97 model year vehicle, you should assume it to be an interference engine.

I would make sure the clutch is being commanded to engage before pulling it apart. You could also jumper 12v straight to the clutch to see if it works. You can also check the air-gap with a feeler guage and compare that to spec (if you can find the spec). I'm pretty sure most of the old posts were carried over. We've had a few thread resurrections lately where the last posts were made back in 2009-2011. I've searched for various threads and found plenty that were older than that.

Spark plugs and wires. Use NGK brand parts as Milesfox said.

I have no idea where I read it, but I know I've seen something about this before as well. Does your clutch engage but still slip?

Need an Ej22 from either a 99 Legacy L, or a 99-01 Impreza. Unless the head gaskets are pulling oil/coolant or it has a rod knock the "tiredness" is probably just due to needing a tune-up.

Could be! They call it: Seal-Transfer Clutch. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_3/

Seems like an odd combo to me. Synchromesh is just fancy 30 weight motor oil. But it does work great in Hondas. They don't have a hypoid gear set to protect though. Limited slip additives are designed to reduce friction in clutch packs used in limited slip differentials to prevent "chatter". Seems like they would also make it more slick on the synchros, which cancels out the synchromesh.

Rockauto is pretty good about returns, especially with wrong or missing parts, but they would probably want the entire clutch kit returned (possibly how/why you ended up in this perdicament). Inspect the clutch disc and pressure plate carefully. If you see hot spots (multi-colored discoloration) or glazing, don't re-use them. Also check the fingers on the pressure plate for grooving/scoring from the TOB.

I would suspect a stuck open Evap canister purge control valve. Easy to test. The valve is under the intake manifold on the passenger side. There is a vacuum hose running from the area of the throttle body to the valve. Remove the hose from the throttle body and try to blow into it. No air should flow. If air flows the valve is stuck open, usually due to carbon from the evap canister. If you have a habit of topping off the tank, pulling the trigger on the fuel nozzle to try to squeeze in that extra 1/2 gallon of fuel, this has likely damaged the Evap canister carbon structure due to flooding it with liquid fuel. The canister will need to be replaced.

If the kit came with those instructions it was probably supplied with the sleeve and matching TOB. If the parts were not shrink wrapped or bagged together, its possible someone bought that kit and returned it, or someone at the store removed the sleeve from the kit. The sleeves are not very thick, so the difference in diameter is fairly minor, but that small difference makes a big difference when it comes to properly releasing the clutch.

99 manual trans Changing trans fluid doesn't hurt a manual. It can cause problems in poorly maintained automatics. The shudder could be many things. I would have to suspect it to be bearing related. These need to be torqued to 140 ft lbs. Loosening them is very bad and will cause damage to the bearing.

Did you install the repair sleeve that came with the kit? If not, that's your problem. The repair sleeves require a larger inside diameter release bearing. Installing the larger bearing without the sleeve will allow the bearing to go WAY sideways.

I think any 75w-90 is going to be synthetic but I may be wrong. I've only ever seen synthetic in that weight. That transmission is designed to use 80w-90 oil though. They designed that transmission in the mid '80s. There weren't commonly available synthetic gear lubes around at that time, so the synchros are designed to work best with 80w-90 dino juice. There is Subaru Extra-S fluid which IIRC is a 75w-90. I can't say for sure how well it works in the older transmissions. The S fluid was designed to help correct shifting issues in the newer transmissions, and seems to be highly recommended, but it's about $15 a quart.

Shouldn't be any long term effect as long as you change it out soon. The more it grinds the more damage you do. I've been using the Walmart Supertech stuff that's like $12 a gallon.

Yep. I've been in the same boat. Tried synthetic gear oil thinking I was doing my transmission a favor. Just made it grind. I've stuck with the cheapest 80w-90 gear oil I can get my hands on since then. The newer transmissions (like 05+) are made to use 75w-90. The old ones work best with 80w-90. There are some cocktail mixes of fluids out there but they all seem to have a down-side of some sort.

I guess you're looking for a non-interference EJ? Which model is "best" depends on what you're looking for in the car. Best fuel economy? Best ride/comfort? Best handling? Best cargo space? Legacy and Impreza share the same engines, transmissions, basically the entire drivetrain and suspension; barring minor differences like spring rate, strut length, and differential ratios. For fuel economy you want a 1.8 FWD Impreza. Sporty ride, AWD Impreza. Cargo space, Legacy Wagon. Just a few examples.

Straight synthetic is too slippery for the synchros in the old transmissions. Change back to plain ol' 80w-90 and it'll be fine.

Clutch chatter is probably due to one side of the pressure plate not fully releasing. This can happen if the quill that the TOB slides on is worn unevenly because it will cause the TOB to cock off to one side as it moves toward the pressure plate. It will also cause the TOB to drag as it releases and/or not fully release right away. Maybe this could cause a whining/whirring sound if the TOB is still rubbing on the pressure plate fingers?

I've got cheapo 6" round driving lights from Autozone in mine. Had to fab a bracket to mount them but it was pretty easy. Just bent a length of 2" wide aluminum from Lowes to curve around behind the light. Drilled a hole at the bottom for the light mounting stud to go in. Two holes at the top to bolt it to the existing mount holes in the bumper. Not sure how well they work compared to the factory lights but when they're aimed properly they cut through the fog pretty well. The cheapo plastic grille on the light broke when I hit the top limbs of a tree that had fallen into the road after a wind storm.

Should be able to, but you need to run it at about 45-50 mph for 5-10 minutes to get the CAT monitor to set. Need between 1/2 and 3/4 tank of fuel to get the evap monitor to set. Subaru has a TSB out about the quickest way to set the monitors. I've posted it a few times. If you search here for How to set Emission Monitors you should find it.

There is an interlock switch that keeps the key cylinder from turning to the lock position unless the shifter is in park. The switch in the console can get sticky if someone ever spilled a soda or coffee in the console. Remove the two screws under the arm rest lid and the console covers just pull up. Then you have access to the switch to remove and clean it. Also check all of the fuses. I don't remember which one exactly supplies power to the interlock, but if its blown you'll have the same problem.

Pull the transfer drum out and see if it has grooves cut into it from the clutch plates hitting it. They can sometimes be filed down smooth to get rid of binding. Worst case you have to replace the drum. You have to remove the clutch plates from the drum anyway, so might as well put new ones in. Parts are usually less than $500 including the Duty C, which is like $120 by itself.

Did these in an 07 Forester and didnt have to do any lifting/tilting to get them out. Maybe the Foz has a bit more room though?

Yeah, they're all the same at the front. The cat back is different length for the shorter wheel base.