Fairtax4me

X2 Check the fluid levels.

You can't rebuild the center diff. At least, not the part that has failed. They're expensive to buy new, but used is usually a good option. They don't fail often.

Yep. The triangle trim that goes on the gusset at the front of the door.

Just put the 97 intake manifold on the 93 engine. Done. Run a hose to the EGR valve from the intake tube. These engines can be pulled, resealed, and re-installed in a weekend easy. And if you have the other engine ready to go in you could probably do it in a day.

Like Gary said, MTs have a sealed mechanical center diff unit. No electronics or clutch packs. Friction modifiers can not be added or will cause damage to the synchronizers in the transmission. Before replacing the center diff, you will need to address the cause of the failure which is usually mismatched tire brands, models, or sizes. Or mixing 2 worn tires with 2 new tires. Make sure all 4 tires match and have even treadwear, or the new center diff may suffer the same fate in a short time.

Probably needs a front O2 sensor. Check the filler tube in the right rear wheel well for rust. There is a plastic cover over the tube which will need to be removed. The plastic cover traps dirt and moisture and causes the filler to rust and develop pinholes. Also check the fuel hoses under the hood that go to the fuel filter.

There are a couple of those on the EJ blocks. They go into the coolant passages. I guess that one is on the head? There may be an aluminum seal washer under it. See if its just loose. I think you need a 10 or 12mm hex bit.

If they're leaking into the plug wells they're already a problem. The oil will cause the boots on the plug wires to expand and allow the spark current to arc to the head and cause misfires. You don't need to lift or tilt the engine. It's kinda tight at the back corners but still doable. Remove stuff on the sides like the air filter box, intake tube, washer fluid container, etc. to make extra room if you need to. Get new plugs and wires since they'll be easier to replace while you're doing the cover gaskets.

Front diff isn't any use without the pinion shaft and that requires just too much work to swap to another trans. Keep the center diff and transfer gears if they aren't chewed up. They swap into many of the 99-09ish extension housings and are worth a few bucks to someone with torque bind or a failed snap ring that kersploded the center diff and ate the transfer gears.

Pulling fuses will not help. If the code is still present after clearing with the scanner its because the fault is still there. Need to check the wiring to the rear O2 sensor. I've seen brand new batterys fail in one day so its not impossible, but terminal connection problems are very common. If the tops of the battery posts don't stick out above the cable clamps, the cables aren't attached properly and could be making poor contact with the posts.

This just seems to be a bad omen for Subarus. Anytime a subaru trans was "rebuilt" it seems to have weird problems afterward. Hope you get it figured out. Might check the shifter for sticky crud spilled down in the interlock mechanism.

If you mean you put your hand on the flywheel and tried to turn it, then no, you will not be able to. You likely will not be able to turn the crankshaft pulley with your bare hands either. "By hand" means using a 22mm socket and a large ratchet or breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt to spin the engine. Slow turning and clicking is a battery problem. Either a poor connection or low charge. Have the battery tested and charged at a parts store if you don't have a charger.

Felpro actually makes the composite gaskets for Subaru for the old 2.2s. Not sure who makes the MLS gaskets for Subaru now. From what Ive read the current 2.5 SOHC Felpro design is the same as the previous Subaru design. The most current Subaru design is supposed to be better, but the guys who work on these all the time tend to use the Subaru turbo head gasket, which is problem free.

Possible your power steering belt is a little loose. There isn't anything in the wheel area that would squeak like that.

Code p0051 generally means there is a voltage problem going to the sensor. Codes can be reset with the engine running. Doesn't hurt anything. The no start problem sounds like the battery cables are not attached properly.

Yes, any broken teeth on the outside of the crank sprocket will cause it to not start.

Fel-pro gaskets work well. NGK wires work just as good as OEM. Amazon usually has good deals on parts. I use Rockauto.com often. I get part numbers and search them through google. Be sure to look at shipping charges because sometimes they can be pricey. I've also had good luck on eBay, especially with their Fast 'n Free shipping.

Heads don't have a bore. The 2.2 heads have a smaller combustion chamber so it bumps up the compression ratio. Im not certain of suspension specifics for a 91, but you can bolt pretty much any Impreza strut up to 2007 into there. The top hats and springs are where it gets tricky and you need to play mix and match and/or drill some holes, but nothing too major. Do some searching and decide if you want to go higher or lower or same height, that will determine which spring and strut combo you need to go with. There isn't much that will add power to the 2.2. Cams, intake, and exhaust are about all you can do, and get 10 maybe 20 more horses on the top end. But It'll still make 300k as long as you keep up with maintenance. This place will be your best bet for first gen Legacy specific info: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/

Yeah those bolts aren't easy to cut anyway. Pretty sure they're 10.9 steel, (equivalent to Grade 8). Cutting wheel on a die grinder would be my preferred method if air tools are an option. If not, a 4" angle grinder would work, just would take a while.

If you've never used a cutting torch, a confined space under a car is not the place to start. Acetelene is also very dangerous to use if you don't know what you're doing. It would certainly make short work of the bolt, along with the bushing housing, and the bushing. I'd be more inclined to use the sawzall to cut the head off.

Good chance that will take care of it. New plugs always make a difference. If you dont fix the valve cover gaskets the new wires will just get ruined by the oil. Plan on doing the gaskets at the same time.

Don't these have some kind of resistor block on the strut tower that affects the way the trans shifts? As far as I know if it plugs in it should be fine, but there was a change in 04 with the way the C duty solenoid works, so I guess its entirely possible they changed some other things too.

Can you turn up the amp setting on the machine? If yes, crank it up and it might burn through the rust/paint/crud in there. If not, weld some lines on the side of the nut, see if you can turn it into a square so you can put a wrench or vice grip on it. Then try to loosen it while its still hot.

Put a 2.5 block between your existing 2.2 heads. You keep all your original electronics, but gain displacement and almost 30 horsepower due to the higher compression. Swap the valve train to roller cams with solid lash adjusters from a 97-98 2.2 to reduce valve train friction and free up some extra power. You could also look into a set of Delta Cams for more bottom end. Any EJ transmission you want will bolt in. Just need to make sure to get the matching rear end for correct final drive ratio. If you want an automatic it gets tricky with differences in wiring. But manuals are pretty cut and dry. There is a lot of info about suspension floating around here. I'm not sure of exact details on the early first gens, but there are plenty of people who have lifted those with struts from 95-99 Outback and 98-07 Forester models.

If the old engine was ever overheated, that was probably what did the rod bearing in, though I agree that turning 4k rpm for (possibly) hours at a time isnt good for it either. An upgraded oil pump is not a bad idea, and is fairly common so there is plenty of info about it floating around Internet land. You'll want to reseal the separator plate and the wrist pin cover on the back of the engine while you have easy access to it.