Fairtax4me

The plug opposite the filler cap on the radiator is a bleeder cap for letting air out when filling the system. Head gasket problems are very common on that engine and the typical symptoms are almost exactly what you describe. A few things you may want to try first. Get a new genuine Subaru thermostat. It's an easy change, and if the old thermostat is an aftermarket it will make a difference. Replace the radiator cap. Again, Subaru OE is the best source for this, though this is not as critical as having a Subaru thermostat. Once those are done the system will need to be properly filled and purged of air. If the bleed plug is broken you can replace it with a short bolt that has the same thread pitch. Be sure to keep the rubber o-ring under the plug.

Can you tell if the fuel pump is coming on to prime the system? Filter hose should go to the top metal line on the manifold. Worth a look just in case.

Just use a standard compressor pressure switch. http://m.northerntool.com/mt/www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_22938_22938?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors-_-Air%20Compressor%20Accessories-_-16151&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=16151&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=16151&gclid=CNqB1Pfgw74CFdF9OgodsSYAOA Use it in conjunction with a manual switch to engage the compressor clutch only when pressure gets low. An old scuba or oxygen tank would work well, and would be tough enough to withstand damage if the car ever got wrecked. The compressor does hold oil, but it also pushes the oil around through the whole system. I think you would need a way to catch it and route it back to the compressor so it doesn't just blow into the tank, then the compressor would burn up. A lot of Jeep guys use the old Tecumseh box compressors for air so it can certainly be done. Check out some of the off-road and 4WD forums out there because I'm sure someone has done this.

This is the result of a sticky, dirty, or loose Schrader valve in the end of the hose.

If there is a sensor issue (TPS, MAF, Crank, cam, etc) it may have a code due to that sensor being out of spec or not responding.

TPS should only show about 4.5v at WOT. Definitely want to check voltage at the ECU. Also check for any codes. Clear them and see what comes back.

Try cranking with the throttle about half open. If that doesn't work try it with the pedal on the floor. Have you checked it for codes? Did you remember plug in the ECT sensor when you put the intake manifold back on? Also, your plug gap should be .039-.043" IIRC. That might not make a huge difference now but will lead to shorter plug life.

Normally a leak-down test is done at 100psi, but only 4% leakage is pretty damn good. Not enough to make a difference. I've leak checked the 2.2 in my 96 and had leakage of 10-15% in all 4 cylinders. Compression test numbers were all above 170. I would have to question the results of the compression test. Have you started the engine yet? Does it run ok?

Oh goody lots to go wrong there. The aftermarket intake tube don't ever have the fittings for the breather and PCV hoses that are attached to the stock intake tube. These need to be attached to the tube because they pull air into the engine and that air is not being metered by the MAF sensor. The result is you get a lean fuel mixture, which causes rough lumpy idle. The oiled air filters have a tendency to coat the MAF sensor element with oil. Then it doesn't respond properly and can cause problems. Fix all the handyman intake stuff before chasing other problems.

Possible the IAC is just totally stuck. They're easy to clean, but that may not fix it. I'd suggest removing the IAC to see if the port in the throttle body is clogged. There are several hoses that attach to the intake tube. Make sure they're all connected and both ends of the tube are properly clamped. Also check the resonator tubes, make sure they're not cracked.

I guess CV boot grease could have a greenish tint, It's usually black or very dark grey color. Can you tell of the screechy sound is coming from the axle? Screechy sound occurs when clutch disengaged (pedal down) would be the release bearing.

That's the separator plate leaking. I'd replace the wrist pin cover o-ring, or remove the cover and RTV it. It's not leaking now, but it will soon.

Engine doesn't have to actually start to bend valves. Just needs someone to turn the key. The ECU won't prevent cranking. I'm not sure how far out the timing can be before the ECU determines there is a problem and sets a code for crank/cam sensor. I do know that misfires will occur, and the ECU will set codes for those, if only the drivers side cam is off by one tooth. I've had that happen. I don't recall which way it was off.

I would kinda think ZXL200pg is just a proprietary part number for Zexel Pag oil. Zexel is the compressor manufacturer. I'd go with PAG100. This chart lists various makers and which oils they use. https://www.rtitech.com/downloads/News/Oil%20Chart%20-%20Compressor.pdf

I haven't ever had any trouble with rebuilt calipers. They come with new seals, pistons, dust boots, and slide pins. Most calipers now come with new brackets as well. They have to get parts to rebuild from somewhere, which is the reason for the core charge. The parts they rebuild are the original calipers that you take back to get your core credit. All of the rebuilt calipers I've put on Subarus still have the Fuji logo on them.

Neither of these scenarios affects the TOB. These will cause excessive wear to the clutch disc. What causes TOB failure is constantly spinning while under load due to being in full contact with the pressure plate. This only happens when the clutch pedal is fully pressed down. Sitting for extended periods of time with the clutch pedal held down puts full load on the TOB, which causes it to wear out prematurely.

The sticker under the hood should say what kind of oil to use. I usually put about 1/2 oz.

Right, when the system is cold there will be no pressure in it. It should stay that way until the engine starts to heat up. If there is pressure in the system after only 15-20 seconds of running while the engine is cold its because of combustion gas being forced into the cooling system.

Generally the chains will last 250k. I've seen reports of these over 300k with no chain problems, so I certainly wouldn't expect to have to do anything before 250k. I seem to remember reading about the chain guides wearing and causing some trouble on the early 6s. Pretty sure that was a one year deal though, and not very common. Expect 250,000 out of it before you need to address any possible chain issues, assuming the car is still worth keeping.

Did you make sure the output drum has the correct number of clutch plates? There is a port on the back where you can check line pressure to the transfer clutch. It's on the upper left side of the tail housing. If you have a pressure guage I would suggest doing that. I would also want to make sure the oil feed ports in the extension and tail housing are clear. There could be RTV or a peice of gasket stuck in the port blocking line pressure.

Might just make sure the cable is adjusted properly before replacing the switch.

2007 Forester, about 75k miles. Had a car towed in to work today and the complaint was that the clutch wasnt working properly, and after making some strange noises now the car won't start. Clutch pedal was on the floor. Turned the key and only got a loud Clack from the starter. After 2 attempts smelled something burning and saw smoke coming from the starter motor. It was working, it just couldn't turn. Push the car in, pull the airbox off and basically found this: pics were taken after removal of the trans. Inside the trans bellhousing looks like this: Pressure plate: Clutch disc was worn down to the rivets. Talked to the customer and found out they hold the clutch pedal down while sitting at a stop light. Basically TOB wore out and started chewing the fingers on the pressure plate. When those got thin enough they just bent inwards and the TOB shoved through, got hung up and spun around, making interesting noises all the while. Then it finally got hung up on the release fork and yanked that sideways, snapped the pivot stud casting block right off the case, snapped a bunch of the fins, and knocked a chunk out of the opening for the release arm in the top of the bellhousing, jammed between the pressure plate and the case and locked the engine. Engine spins fine now with the trans removed. Don't know if it ruined the thrust bearing, but I'm kinda thinking it probably did since the engine spun about a half turn after the release arm got hung up in the pressure plate before it stopped.

No video that I know of off hand, but there's probably one somewhere. I'm not the one who came up with this idea. Basically, get a bolt that's about 3/4" longer than the width of the upper bellhousing. Get a nut and a fender washer to fit the bolt. When you get the engine and trans separated about an inch, slide the bolt into the top corner bellhousing bolt hole, put the box end of a large wrench, about 3/4", on the bolt, point the other end of the wrench towards the center stub of the TC. Slide the washer on, then the nut, then tighten it up. It doesn't need to be he-man tight. Just tight enough to keep the wrench from moving. Now as long as you didn't drag the TC out that far while trying to get the engine loose, it will stay seated properly until you've put the engine back in. When you get the bolts out of the TC and its free from the flexplate, take a big screwdriver or prybar and pry it back away from the flexplate. Should move back about 1/4" and disengage the pilot stub which will help keep the TC from sliding out when you separate the bellhousings.

Nice car! If it has metal pulleys the bearings can be replaced pretty easily. Tractor Supply carries 6203 double sealed ball bearings for about $7. Can get them at Napa as well for about the same cost. Just knock the old bearing out with a large socket, press the new one in with a C-clamp and a larger socket thats the same size as the outer bearing race.

Compression test won't tell you anything. Need to do a leak-down test. Check for pressure in the upper radiator hose after running for about 15-20 seconds after the first start in the morning. That's usually a first sign of head gaskets, not many people notice it.