Fairtax4me

Under the number 3 intake runner. Rare, but if the evap charcoal canister gets flooded with fuel it can be pushed up the vacuum line to the solenoid when the fuel tank pressurizes.

Pull th injectors out and check the o-rings first. Probably just needs those. check the fuel pressure regulator for leaks as well. Pull the vacuum hose off and check for liquid fuel in the hose. If those check out OK pull the vacuum hose for the evap purge solenoid and see if there's liquid fuel in there.

99 Impreza used a different alternator than the one referenced above. The price on your alternator has come down quite a bit, they used to be over $400 for a dealer reman.

A "better" battery than what the dealer sells is hard to find. I've tested charged and replaced enough batteries to have a pretty good idea of which ones last and which ones don't. You won't find a better battery at a regular parts store. And any retailer that specializes in batteries is a ripoff price-wise compared to a dealer battery.

It's not uncommon for an original battery to fail in the first year of owning a new vehicle. Batteries get a rough life between the time they go in the car at the factory and the 3-5 months they spend parked in a storage lot or on the dealers lot before being purchased. New vehicles are repeatedly started ,moved, and shut off, in such short time that the battery is never sufficiently re-charged. This eventually damages the battery and leads to a very short life span. How short are your weekly drives? Less than 10 minutes? Longer drives (20 minutes or more) are better for the battery as it allows time for it to recharge. Twice a week, drives of more than 30 minutes, the battery should last years with no problem.

There's really only two reasons for fouling plugs at idle. It's spraying too much fuel, or it can't breath. Actually I suppose a third reason could be that the plugs heat range is too cold, but this usually isn't a problem once the engine is warm. The ECU uses a number called Engine load calculation to determine fuel input at a predetermined rate. This is based on ECT, MAF values, RPM, and throttle position. The few times I've seen Subarus run so rich they foul plugs at idle and hunt up and down for idle speed, the MAF sensor was always bad and was telling the ECU that air flow was higher than it actually was. High engine load calculation was a sign of that, due to the falsely higher airflow rate. You don't have a MAF sensor, but you will have a calculated/estimated MAF value in the scanner data from the ECU. It calculates this based on throttle position and MAP sensor values. If you have an incorrect MAP value, either because of a leak or a plugged orifice or vacuum port for the sensor, that can cause the ECU to add or remove fuel trying to compensate. Are your fuel trims high or low at idle? Basically, high positive trims show the ECU is adding fuel. Negative trims show it is trying to deliver less fuel, but can't or can't adjust the mixture any farther.

Does it say DENSO on the sticker on the starter? If No, that's the problem.

Started clicks? Does not spin? Needs starter contacts. "No crank" vs "no start" are two entirely different animals. The way you've described it, sounds like you have a no crank situation.

Well you don't have to cover the nicu lines. The steel lines you can spray with just about any rubberized undercoating, or just wipe some grease on them.

Back to my original question... How OLD is the belt? Gates or Bando if you can find it. Dayco belts will cause you more grief.

At this point I would be looking at scanner data for throttle position, engine load calculation, fuel trims, etc. Did you ever get the TPS adjusted properly? Scanner data would show that. It should be at 0% with the throttle closed. The rear O2 sensor may not be causing the whole problem but it isn't helping. Gloyales advice on that above is exactly right. It sounds like a universal sensor was installed, check on the side of the transmission just above the rear crossmember for the harness plug. Hopefully that plug wasn't cut out. If it was you can splice straight to the factory harness, but IIRC the wire colors in the harness are different. Worst case, the harness that runs along the trans to the rear sensor is replaceable. It should have another plug up near the top passenger side of the bellhousing. After that, and you've verified TPS position is correct, my next steps would be to remove the intake manifold and check it for carbon/sludge, check the intake ports and valves for buildup, and probably replace fuel injectors or have them rebuilt by a professional rebuilder service.

The problem is accessibility. Like Numbchux said, there just isn't room to work with a flare tool in that area. It's also not possible to make proper flares on those bends. Pull the rear seat up and there is tons of room and several inches of straight line where you can make good flares. After the lines are cut, if you can get enough of that straight sections of line pulled down to get a flare tool on it then replacing just the rusted sections is fine. But with the amount of rust that's under there, I think you'll have new leaks very soon due to other sections of the lines rusting out.

Hmmm... This one has me a bit raffled. As for the "2 timing belts" I've heard of that in the past but it was usually in reference to the difference between the phase 1 and phase 2 engines. I searched the part numbers for the belt and it does look like Subaru specs a one belt (13028-AA21B) for the Legacy 99-05, and a different belt (13028-AA231) for Impreza, Forester, and Baja of the same years. It also covers some models in the 09+ range. Why the difference? I have no clue. Never knew there was a difference, and I'm pretty sure I've put a few of those Aisin TKF-001 kits on a few Legacy/outback models from the 00-04 years. Although admittedly, the only thing I've ever paid attention to in the listing is the water pump, Front t-stat vs bottom , and the tensioner. Aisin does list a kit TKF-010 that they say is for the Legacy 2.5 99-05, though I can't find anything to verify that the belt is the only difference. I guess I'll order one and see what the deal is. Either that or get my hands on the two different belts and see if there's an actual difference other than the part number. IDOSubaru thanks for the link above. Searching their site I found this: http://aisinaftermarket.com/uploads/encddb7e_TKF-007_superseded_NOV_2017.pdf Which lead to the info listed above. It looks as though the TKF-007 kit was originally intended to cover the 00-05 legacy, but the info wasn't properly listed. Amazon says TKF-007 fits 01 Legacy, so does Rockauto's interchange. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFKEL2Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521257013&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=aisin+tkf007&dpPl=1&dpID=41pOHzySc8L&ref=plSrch https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/aisin,TKF010,timing+belt%2C+water+pump+&+component+kit,16088 < This one shows the superceded kit, but includes in the info the number for the old kit. out of stock.

Needs starter contacts first. Plug on the sensor might be loose or have corrosion or dirt in the terminals. Possibly cracked insulation on the wires near the plug.

First clean all the slime off and make sure the block isn't cracked somewhere else.

Cel comes on and it stores a code in the computer. Have the code read at an auto parts store or get a code reader. Post the code number (P0xxx) here and we can help more, but without that, flying blind.

Yeah that's a 2-3 hour job at most. Find a reputable Independent shop that works on Subarus.

Possibly RTV or some other particle blocked the oil feed for the rocker shaft. Best practice with a major valve train failure is to replace the entire head. Question is if the spring broke, did the valve make contact with the piston?

Hmm... Wonder what else they left out...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008EEYT2E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521159500&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=subaru+timing+belt+kit+aisin&dpPl=1&dpID=419Xv1N-V3L&ref=plSrch Just bought one of those a few months ago. All top quality OE stuff.

Casting number doesn't mean much but if you can find a VIN stamp on it that will tell you exactly what year it is and what car it originally came from. If there's no VIN a serial number may be in its place that can be checked through a Subaru dealer for info. Looking at the front of the engine, the VIN stamp should be on the lower left corner of the bellhousing. There are also some differences in the design of the casting that will identify if it's a turbo design block or n/a block. IIRC there's a waffle pattern all over the block on the turbo versions. I would think that if someone went through the trouble to put it in a rail like that they would have built the internals, but it's helpful sometimes to know exactly if it's a turbo block or not.

NOT ALL GEAR OILS ARE CREATED EQUAL!!!!!!! Bottom line: Subaru HPGO is what you need Expanded version: The additives in different brands of gear oils are what make them unique. SUBARU REQUIRES a VERY SPECIFIC additive package for the manual transmissions. It has to play nice with brass synchronizers AND with the hypoid ring and pinion gear set in the front. This is NOT something that all gear oils are capable of, or designed to work with. Motul 300 is a synthetic gear oil that's closer in design to a GL4 oil, so it has the shear stability to handle the demand of a hypoid set, but it's not super slick like many GL5 synthetics, so it works great for the synchros in the Subaru transmissions. It's also about $25 a liter, and you need 4. Subaru HPGO is a GL5 oil designed specifically by Subaru with an additive package to work specifically with their manual transmissions. Every dealer carries it. Or you can often get it online a bit cheaper. Usually something like $12-15 a quart. Put it in the trans, put it in the rear diff, those are what it's made for.

Depends what parts you're looking for and there are changes across years/body styles, but in general 90s legacy Impreza and forester share basically the exact same platform. Legacy changed rear suspension in 2000. Impreza and forester shared until around 09. Beyond that I'm not as familiar but they're all somewhat similar.

These pumps hardly ever fail. And if they do a rebuilt pump would be my last option. Turning the wheel back and forth with wheels off the ground dos the load the rack and doesn't load the pump. You get some flow, but you don't get fluid flow through the pressure ports in the spool valve in the rack, because the spool valve doesn't open unless there is torsional force on the steering shaft. Wheels on the ground, turn the steering wheel to all the way to full lock and back and hold fora second or so at lock several times. After turning the first time check fluid level and top off if necessary. Turn lock to lock about 15-20 times then shut the engine off and let any air bubbles in the reservoir float out. Noise should mostly go away after that.

Typically symptom a bad MAF sensor. Broken solder joint in the sensor. Doesn't always set a code. Battery was replaced, the old code is probably gone, but you might have a stored code that hasn't turned on the light yet. Look into getting a Bluetooth code/data reader that you can use with your phone. Anything you drive that's newer than 1995 you'll be able to use it on. The convenience is worth the $20-40 you might spend on it.