Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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I used to have the package for one and I'm pretty sure it had the size on it. Who knows if I can find it though! I'm in the process of sorting through two rubber-made containers full of random car parts, fluids, cleaners, and other odds and ends. -
The oil filter is tiny because it doesn't NEED to be any bigger. Better oils, better crankcase breather systems, better air filtration on newer cars means less crap in the oil to need to be filtered out. That said, there are many aftermarket filters that will fit, and they may be slightly larger than the stock Subaru filter, but size alone doesn't mean they work better. Stick to a quality brand like Wix, Mann, Bosch, Purolator, Hastings. And be sure to run the recommended oil type (should be synthetic on that car) and weight. Head gaskets really aren't a huge problem on the newer engines. They dont "blow out", and if they do leak its usually a manageable external leak. The new F series engines don't really have enough miles on them yet to say one way or the other if the head gasket issues are still around. But if anywhere on the Internet would have info, it would probably be on SubaruOutback.org.
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Good deal! Glad its back together and running well! Free parts FTW!
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Sure it's doable, but the labor involved, the cost of a new end tank, plus waiting for it to show up. Way more work than its worth when you can have a new radiator in a few days for around $100 and all you have to do is put it in the car. If its an old radiator for some strange car or custom made one-off sorta thing and there are no other radiators that will fit, then sure it might make sense to try to source an end tank or even take it to a radiator shop. (If there's even one of those still around in your area)
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Kind of a waste of time to put a turbo on that engine since you'll never be able to run more than about 5psi. Compression ratio is just too high. Per your specific question, yes you will likely have to change the header. That engine most likely has single port heads though, which means you'll have to have a header custom made.
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No real way to replace the end tank. Just get a new radiator. As for the power problem, there are several sensors that can affect running when the engine is warm. You should also make sure all vacuum hoses are attached properly, not split or cracked. Also check all of the breather hoses and PCV hoses. Replace the PCV valve if you didnt already. Check all of the hoses for the intake. If the car has a MAF sensor get a can of MAF sensor cleaner and clean the element in the sensor. By age its time for that car to have the timing belt replaced. So plan on doing that soon.
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I want to say its M12x1.5 Take the bolt to a Fastenal store, or any store that sells specialty hardware, and they can measure it.
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There are a few wires that go to the ECU on the older models. One grounds the control side of the compressor clutch relay. Another comes from the HVAC control head to tell the ECU the AC is on. You'll definitely want a wire diagram of the system you're using as there are multiple relays used to control the clutch and the fans.
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These don't usually have window problems unless the window was broken and replaced at some point. The top of the triangle (gusset seal) at the front is always split. The rubber dries, hardens, and shrinks with age and eventually splits. That part is about $75 IIRC at a Subaru dealer. The upper stops in the door are there to park the window in the correct position when it rolls up. Those should be adjusted so the rear and top edges of the window meet the body seal in the correct position. The edge of the glass should be over the lip seal, and should then meet the cushion part beyond that. If it goes too far it stresses the door and the regulator, if it doesn't to far enough you get wind noise and possibly water leaks around the window. Basically the top edge of the window should be just under the metal strip at the top. If you look at the lower rear edge of the window when its rolled up all the way, that is about how far over the edge of the lip seal the window should be the entire way up to the upper rear corner. There is an adjustment on the lower section of the regulator that changes the angle of the window as it rolls up and down. You want to try to adjust this so the window hits both stops at the same time. If one stop hits before the other it will stress the regulator which will cause it to bend, and eventually the regulator will fatigue and crack. There are instructions in the factory service manual for adjusting the window, but they're kind of confusing and require some special tools IIRC. But it has pictures of all of the adjustment points, and it may help.
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Go to sears and pick up one of these: http://www.costplustools.com/LISLE-58430-Shaft-Type-Seal-Puller_p_15592.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CSE&utm_term=LIS58430&utm_campaign=PLA&gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c2749_a_7c9972_a_7cLIS58430 Hopefully the link works. It's a Lisle 58430 Shaft type seal puller. Best $15 I ever spent.
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Misfire = raw fuel dumping into the cats. Good chance your cats are toast. The simple stuff: Basically a tune-up. Plugs and wires, air and fuel filters. New PCV valve. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks, all of the breather hoses are attached properly and have no splits or cracks, and no exhaust leaks between the heads and the last cat. Next would be new O2 sensors.
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Somehow I thought it said 27 Apr 2014
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Come to think of it the engine type probably doesn't matter but 99 was a change-over year and it could have two different styles of idle control. Your IAC should have a large approx. 1" diameter hose coming from the intake tube. Remove the hose from the intake and pull it off the IAC and spray into the IAC with some throttle body cleaner. Use a screwdriver to reach inside and flip the valve back and forth, then spray a little more. While you're at it, pull the intake tube off the throttle body, pull the throttle plate open and clean the TB bore. Wait a few minutes for the cleaner to dry before starting the engine.
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Nice! Didnt know those could be removed that easy. If I still had the dead alternator from my 95 I'd ship it to you. I think you'll have to find an alternator rebuilder for a new one. Might get lucky searching google?
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Oh... it won't come off the stud. Use a screwdriver/small prybar to lift up on the bottom of the nut while you turn it with a socket. Pry up on the eyelet if you can't get under the nut. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you do that though.
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Right, the screen is fine so it doesn't suck up large particles, by that's also a problem if there are LOTS is particles just larger than the screen. Some of the later Saab engines are prone to sludge. The sludge creates little bits of asphalt like material in the engine which break away and wash down to the pan. They don't make it into the pump, they get caught in the pick up screen and clog it. Then oil pressure drops off and bearing damage is the end result. Saab fixed that problem with a re-designed PCV system which improved airflow through the crankcase. Toyota had sludge problems. Volkswagon, Chrysler, several others. All have the same problems with the pick up screen clogging with particles.
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Pan flange surface is not flat enough for anaerobic sealant. If it were a machined aluminum pan that would work well. But it's stamped steel. Just run a bead of Ultra Grey down the middle and it'll be fine.
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Yeah, that cooked because the connection was loose. The white stuff is from the rubber boot smoking. The eyelets can usually be cleaned up with a wire brush or sand paper. Are the threads on the stud trashed? Usually you can wire brush that and the threads will clean up fine. If not running a thread die on it should take care of it. The nut can be replaced with pretty much any metric 10mm nut.
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Did you dry the plugs before putting them back? Did you allow the cylinders to air dry for a little while after cranking it over? Did you turn the key on and off several times to prime the fuel rails? Did you try cranking the engine with the throttle wide open? When the cylinders are floods the mixture is too rich and requires more air in order to burn. Cranking with the throttle wide open cuts the injectors to help clear fuel from the cylinders.
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Didn't know those had a bypass valve. Good to know, since those can be problematic.
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Which engine?
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The mount should be on the same side as the caliper. It looks like the mount opening on that strut is spread open. Some struts have open end mounts so that you don't have to disconnect the brake hose to replace the strut. Kinda lazy if you ask me, especially since strut replacement is a good time to flush the brake fluid. Just squeeze the ends closer together with a pair of pliers. You may want to buy new line clips to help keep the line in place. I've seen people use large zip-ties wrapped around the strut to keep the hose in the mount.
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It's probably hung up on the lower control arm. Put a jack under the lower ball joint and raise the hub an inch or so, that should give you some wiggle room to shove the axle back into the hub. The next problem is you need to torque the axle nut to 140 ft-lbs.
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The connection there was probably loose which created a lot of heat. Not talking hot to touch heat, I mean hot enough to make the nut and wire end glow. This would lead to a high oxidation rate befause the protective coating on the nut and stud would have burned. Post a pic if you can.
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The opening in your dash should be sized for a double din unit. At least the second gen legacy is that way. The stock radio and pocket pull out as one unit then you just unscrew the brackets and screw them onto the new head unit. As far as I know the harnesses should match up the same.
