Fairtax4me

If they had swapped auto to manual the engine would likely have EGR, or there would be evidence of it missing the EGR parts. Getting rid of the EGR is not practical just to accomplish a transmission swap. EGR components are pictured here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/439512-post9.html This is in the back of the intake manifold, on the left side.

To fix the steering wheel: Pull the airbag module off the wheel, flip it over and carefully bend/pry the tabs out and cut out any rivets that hold the cover to the frame for the airbag igniter module. The igniter module should also unbolt from the metal frame and you may be able to get inside the cover that way, but there may not be as much room to work. Get a vinyl/leather seat repair kit from an auto parts store (or ebay/amazon) Glue the fabric to the back of the cover and use the special repair goop to fill in the seam on the front. Then fold up some cloth behind the cover (or use part of the airbag), and cut a block of stiff styrofoam to fill in the space vacated by the airbag and igniter module. Put the metal support back on and bend the tabs back. Might need a new rivet or two in the corners, but screws would probably work just as well.

Code: P1142 Make: Subaru Description: Throttle position sensor circuit range/performance problem (Low) This could also cause the idle control code to set if the ECU is trying to adjust idle speed while you're cruising under light throttle. Check the voltage on the center pin of the TPS with the engine idling. Should be around 0.50v. Use a paper clip or needle to back-probe the connector through the rubber boot. Could also be a poor connection in the harness connector on the bell-housing.

"Traction control" systems are more like "Power limiting" systems. Get dedicated snow tires for snow. That's all the traction control you need. For cleaning the engine just run a cooling system flush in it before you pull it out. I wouldn't replace the radiator unless you find a lot of deposits in it. Do replace the radiator hoses, and the bypass hose on the side of the water pump. Also replace the heater hoses if they feel soft or oily. Definitely replace the water pump (buy an Aisin), along with all of the idlers and the tensioner when doing the timing belt. Get a thermostat from the dealer.

In VA DMV prevents title transfer and/or registration of a car if Personal Property taxes are owed to a county or city. The city can put a "Hold" on registration activity which can only be released by paying the owed taxes. Some cities will also file a hold for unpaid parking tickets. Just a way of making sure people pay their taxes, though this is generally only done if an account is seriously delinquent. Good fun project! Those wheels look awesome! Too bad about the engine. They just let it sit for forever with coolant in the cylinders. In a way its better though. I'm sure that engine has been overheated a few times.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Don't bother with rings. That's a lot more work and these really don't have ring problems. If you're worried about varnish on the pistons in the ring grooves run a high mileage type oil or put a half quart of Marvels Mystery Oil in it for 100 miles or so. Subaru H6 is a low end torque engine. Something like 170 ft lbs at 2,000 rpm, and 225 ft lbs at 4,000 rpm. Around 215-220 peak horsepower. Later engines have more.

The rear of the car sits lower because the springs are worn out. New springs and Outback struts will make it even front & rear, but it will only be a 1" gain. You gain another inch with stock Outback size tires 205/70/15. You can fit 215/75/15 with Outback struts. Possibly larger depending on tread design.

The closest one that will cut threads should work. Use a thin sided nut and you can slip the hanger over it. Though if you have a welder it only takes a couple seconds to put a weld around the end. Plus welding is fun... Until you light the crotch of your pants on fire...

Hi, and welcome! Turbo is a no-go on that engine. The NA 2.5 runs a 9.5:1 (or 9.7, maybe) compression ratio which is way too high to stick a turbo on. You could run like 3-5psi, and the cost vs the power gain just wouldn't be worth it. Rebuilding the engine to run a turbo on it is about $1,000 in bearings, seals, gaskets, and low compression pistons. Then you still have to find the turbo, all of its associated parts, and get some kind of engine management system to control it all. You could swap in a whole turbo engine from a WRX, or from a Baja XT or Legacy GT. You would need the whole engine, wiring harness and ECU to go with it. Either way, price will be in the $2500-$4,000 range depending on what you need and where you get everything. H6 swap is doable, and cheaper than a turbo, but again you'll need whole engine wire harness and ECU. Obviously you'll need exhaust parts to match whichever engine you put in it. 5 speed swap also doable, but you'll basically need a parts car. Shifter, linkage, pedals, transmission, flywheel, etc., all hard to buy separately and keep costs down. And then there is always stuff you don't think about or don't know about unless you've done that type of swap before and know the car inside and out and exactly what you need to do the swap. Another option to get some extra power is a set of cams, new exhaust, and intake, then get it tuned. Easily doable for under $1,500 unless you go hog wild on expensive parts or something. And you can bolt all that on while the engine is out for the head gaskets. If you do the gaskets yourself you can probably bring it in under $1,500 for all that including head gaskets and re-seal. Audio systems are easy in these, just get a good head unit, a 4 channel amp, and some decent component speakers and you're set. Unless you need mega bass, then you need to figure out where to put the sub. Some other fun things for a Baja Lift kit Bigger tires Skid plates Bull bar (to mount those off-road lights on) http://www.gorillaoffroadcompany.com/product-detail.cfm/prd_key/46

Tap some threads on it about 1/4" and put a hex nut on the end.

You're talking about the parking brake? Has a little "P" symbol? I'm not sure exactly how those work on the Subarus. The ones I'm familiar with will release in two ways. Either push/pull the button. Often they will release if you put the car in drive, take your foot off the brake, and lightly press the gas pedal. If you have space around the car try pressing the gas a little harder and see if it will pop loose. Sometimes with wet weather the brakes will rust a little and get stuck. With enough power from the engine the car will power through the brake and pop loose. The car will jerk forward when it releases, so if you dont have plenty of space in front of the car DO NOT try this. Doing the same thing in reverse will also work, but again, make sure you have plenty of space. That said, a 2014 with only a few thousand miles is still under warranty. If the method above does not work, or you're not comfortable with trying it, call your dealer and have it towed in for repair.

There is an aftermarket source for the separator plate now. I think Rockauto carries it? I'm not sure if anyone here has used one. I just spend the $35 for the dealer kit with the bolts. Bolts, the dealer will sell you special Allen head flange screws, but they use a very common metric thread. Either M5 or M6 I don't recall off the top of my head. You can get the right thread in about a 0.8-1.0cm length with a regular hex head. The top bolt that the arrow points to needs thread sealer.

Won't hurt anything. Just don't try to ford any creeks that are more than fender height.

I'd rather have this:

Electricity is lazy. It takes the path of least resistance. So all those points, the spark is only going to jump ONE of them. Not sure what kind of power source they have for the video. I can tell you that you will never get spark to jump 8 separate gaps on a spark plug all at the same time. Possibly if you have some serious high amperage running through it, and that would make it overheat.

I can't see the video. Got a link? (Rather than embedded)

Prybar. Tap a small flat head screwdriver into the bellhousing seam to start the separation, then wedge in the prybar. Work each side a little at a time near the center (where the dowels are). Clean up any rough spots on the mating surfaces with sand paper before putting the two back together. I had one dowel so stuck it pulled a chunk of aluminum out of the hole. That one took a bigger prybar.

Problem areas: (oil leaks) Cam plug o-ring on rear of passenger head Cam support o-ring on front of drivers head (same part number for both of these) Valve cover gaskets Oil fill tube o-ring Separator plate Rear access cover o-ring Camshaft and crankshaft seals Oil pump O-ring Oil pressure switch You got one down...

Then that would definitely be part of the problem, if not the whole thing. There is a replacement cap out there. If you search here there is a thread with a link. The replacement cap is a different design but fits the same and fixes the problem.

Your engine probably just doesn't have it. It's simpler that way.

They have different additive packages. The additives affect how the fluid reacts with the metals and components in the system. Certain additives in fluids will cause corrosion of brass or bronze parts. Certain additives help to protect aluminum parts from oxidation and corrosion. There are also additives to help prevent wear on gears, bearing surfaces, and other moving parts in the system. You can learn more than you ever thought you wanted to know about ATF, power steering, and pretty much any other kind of oil at BobisTheOilGuy.com

TPS problems are rare, and are usually due to a bad connection or poor ground rather than a failed TPS. You need a voltmeter to adjust the TPS so the ECU gets the correct voltage signal with the throttle closed. Adjust so you have 0.50-0.55V on the center pin. If that doesnt fix it you may have a poor connection in one of the three large connectors on the bell-housing. Or a poor ECU ground to the intake manifold. Symptoms also rhyme with low fuel pressure. 00-04 have an issue with a cap on the fuel pump assembly. It cracks and bleeds fuel pressure back into the tank. Get the TPS adjusted first and reset the ECU again. Then pull the pump assembly and inspect if that doesn't take care of it.

Looks like fun to me! Not sure of this is a repost.

If it were head gasket you would have bubbles in the overflow. Or the coolant would be very low. The type of head gasket failure that produces overheating and bubbles inthe system is not common on this engine. But bubbles in the radiator or overflow are a dead giveaway.