Fairtax4me

The shape of the valve covers will determine the years it will work in. This is a phase 1: http://smashtech.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/2012-02-18_14-07-37_856.jpg 90-99 Legacy 93-98 Impreza Phase 2: http://m.ebay.com/itm/370766386818?nav=SEARCH# 2000-2001 Impreza This engine will also fit in 99-2003 Forester, Legacy, Outback, and Impreza , possibly later years.

Yes it can. Bypassing the core itself is easily done with a u-shaped heater core bypass/delete hose which can usually be found at most parts stores, though it will probably not show up in parts listings. There is a small L-shaped hose which WILL sometimes show up as "bypass hose" which is what connects the metal pipe from the heater core return hose to the side of the water pump housing. It is not normal for those to clog, but any coolant hose can deteriorate inside and block flow. That hose shown here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_19/cooling_system/water_pump/illustration_1/

You can still have plenty of heat with a partially clogged heater core. The thermostat opens and closes at 170°F. You only need 140° at the core to make good heat. The route through the heater core is a bypass route that brings hot coolant from the engine through the core then returns it to the engine just behind the thermostat. This stream of coolant is warm enough to keep the thermostat open when crusing on the highway or in cold weather. With the thermostat in the inlet side of the water pump, it is constantly in a stream of coolant that is colder than its normal opening temperature. This causes the themostat to close, which blocks the flow of coolant into the engine. When coolant in the engine doesn't flow it begins to overheat. The reason for the bypass coolant route is to keep warm coolant flowing to the thermostat. The coolant flows around the thermostat on the back side which keeps it open even if the incoming coolant from the radiator is less than 170°. If the core or the hoses to it are partially clogged there will not be enough flow to maintain the temperature necessary to keep the thermostat open, which leads to overheating.

It's for the downstream sensor. That section of harness runs along the side of the transmission and joins the main harness at the bell housing. The rear sensor would need a 4 foot long pigtail to reach. They use the short harness to keep things modular on assembly. That short section is attached to the side of the trans, and connected to the main harness after the engine/trans are mounted in the car.

Possibly the heater core is clogged.

All different part numbers because the struts are all just slightly different. Legacy, Out back, Forester have different spring perch heights, slightly different valve rates, and across those years will have different brake line mounts. Lots of small variances, so they all have different part numbers. Best strut for bigger tires is the Outback. 96-99. These are quick and simple swap (as simple as can get for a sedan). Good lift and best tire clearance without having to mix and match strut, spring, top-hat. Forester rear springs are taller but have a lower spring rate. If you have a sedan and dont have a ton of stuff in the trunk all the time these work well. But the spring perches on forester struts are closer to the wheel, so not as much room for tires.

I would say its the MAF causing the stall/hiccup issue. The clicking sound in the dash is not normal, but it doesn't seem related. If it clicks when in gear can you set the parking brake and chock the wheels and poke under the dash to find the source? Does it make the same click noise if you tap the brake pedal repeatedly?

TPS is adjustable, but should not be messed with unless you have a code for it or have checked the voltage output and found it to be out of spec. Go to a u-pull junkyard and grab cam/crank sensors. They all work the same and rarely fail. If you want got try retro-fitting between generations cut the connectors off the harness and wire them up. Only two wires, and they should be the same color codes. The VSS in your 93 is in the speedometer. Your speedometer is cable driven. More than likely the cable is broken, though sometimes the drive gears in the trans strip.

The plastic sprocket are made of some kind of Fiberglass re-inforced Nylon. Pretty common and they use it for pretty much everything in cars these days. Sprockets, valve covers, intake manifolds, engine mounts, even bumper support beams. It's light weight and strong enough to do the job, it just doesn't always stand up to the twisting type force applied to it when trying to loosen the bolt because of the way it is designed. Texan, go ahead and replace the cam seals. Even with low mileage they're 8 years old, and age takes a greater toll on rubber seals than mileage does. There are plenty of 8 year old soobs out there with 150,000 miles or more, and I'm sure most of them are on original seals.

It all depends on what you're using it for. I've never used it in the gas tank, but I wouldn't pour a whole quart in there. About a cup should do fine, and that's still more liquid volume than most fuel system / injector cleaners that you buy in a bottle. In the crankcase again it depends mostly on what you want to achieve wih it. If you're doing a crankcase flush to clean out severe sludge buildup use a whole quart with the rest regular oil and run the engine for about 20-30 minutes. For a general cleaning use 1/2 quart and the rest your normal oil and drive it for 50-100 miles or so. For cleaning out hydraulic lifters use 1/2 quart and the rest 10w-40 engine oil you can leave it in there for as long as you want until the next oil change. If you mix it with 5w-30 run it for 100 - 500 miles and change it. It's also good to add to the gas for a lawnmower if you're going to store it. MMO can also be used as an additive in 2 cycle oil to help clean out combustion chamber and crankcase deposits. It can also be used as a parts cleaner if you have something that needs to soak like an old carburetor.

Fuel filter, air filter, and a new PCV valve would round out the list for a tune-up. Replacing those generally gives you some time under the hood to inspect vacuum hoses, breather and PCV hoses. Seafoam in the intake does clean alot of buildup out of the intake runners and combustion chambers. It generally makes a difference in bottom end power and throttle response.

I always try to crack them loose before removing the old belt. Sometimes it doesn't work out though. The teeth just skip. Same with tightening. If you tighten them after installing the new belt you chance having them skip a tooth or more out of time. Wrap the old belt around the sprocket and around the crankshaft, then use vice grips, c-clamp, etc to hold the belt. Reverse the direction of the belt on the sprocket when you want to tighten. This seems to work best in the absense of special holding tools. The FSM spec is around 60 ft-lbs, but they've been on there in the same place for years, and thousands of heat cycles. The threads conform to each other, and the head of the bolt does the same with the flange on the sprocket. There also tends to be a bit of rust/corrosion over the years, due to moisture, dirt, dust in the air, etc. and if some one put thread lock on it at some point (not necessary), the effects add up to needing quite a bit more torque to break the bolt loose than what it should have been originally. A Honda crankshaft bolt is a good example, if you've ever tried to crack one of those bastards loose. Ive put bolts on with a small 3/8" ratchet and had to use much more force than I used to tighten them in order to crack them loose again 5 minutes later. So there are many more factors that determine how much force is necessary to loosen a bolt than just how tight you put it on.

All the ones I've seen say to use Dexron II or III. Generally the fluid type is on the lid or on a label on top of the reservoir. Wipe the grease off and you may find it.

Shifter interlock switch. But since you also have another problem that popped up at the same time I would check fuses first. It may be a bad ignition switch. Try wiggling the key and see if the signals and interlock start to work.

While its sitting wih the fuel lines unhooked, crack open the fuel filler cap so vapor pressure in the tank can vent. If you don't do this you can end up with a few gallons of fuel dumping out through the open lines by the engine. There are only 3 electrical connections you really need to worry about. The harnesses all meet at the bellhousing in 3 big plugs. Unplug those and unhook the alternator and everything electrical is done. Occasionally is seen an extra ground strap coming from one of the valve covers (I think people add them) so watch out for one of those when lifting. I've used several methods for hooking chains to the engine when hooks are not available. You can usenonenof the short bolts that holds the small triangular AF compressor bracket on the front side. On the opposite side there is a bolt hole either on the head or the back/top of the block near the bellhousing where another of the AC bracket bolts will thread in.

Use Dexron III fluid, or any fluid that meets that spec. Like Lmdew said, wal-mart super tech is the same stuff you get in the auto part store house brand, just at a cheaper price. Changing the screen filter is a waste of time. Dropping the pan will only lead to a leaking pan. I do the drain and re-fill 3x method. Take short drives in between to cycle new fluid through the trans.

Belt, tensioner, all 3 idlers, and the water pump. People have good reports of Gates timing kits. Better quality than the eBay cheapies, and at lower cost than most parts stores if you order on Amazon. You can also get Gates kits through Rockauto. You can order Dealer quality parts (Mitsuboshi belt, NSK and Koyo Idlers & tensioner, Aisin water pump) through TheImportExperts.com for much less than paying dealer prices. Get a dealer water pump gasket. Do not use the paper gasket included with the timing kit. Aisin pumps come with a dealer style gasket. If you want to reseal the front end you'll need cam and crank shaft seals, a tube of Anaerobic sealant, and an O-ring for the oil pump housing. Get the seals and o-ring from a dealer. TheImportExperts carry OE Subaru seals and the o-ring IIRC. Remove the oil pump and make sure the screws on the backing plate are tight. Use an impact screwdriver to re-tighten them. Use blue lock-tite on the threads if you want to.

Both idle control codes. The idle air control valve could be at its limit due to incorrect throttle plate opening. Clean the throttle bore and plate, back the stop screw all the way off, then work the throttle lever a couple times. Turn the stop screw in until it just touches the throttle lever. Adjust the TPS so it reads about 0.50-0.55v. Reset the ECU.

Any 95-98 2.2 will drop in. 96-98 has single port heads which require matching y-pipe, but other than that there are no hold-ups except for EGR which is an easy work around.

Sweet! That's about how I'd like to have my sedan eventually. 10-12" lift sitting on top of 31-33" tires.

Diff ratio, roll that sucker over on its top, pop the diff drain plug off and count the teeth on the ring gear. Sometimes you get lucky and find the part number, tooth count, or ratio stamped on the gear.

Diff ratio, roll that sucker over on its top, pop the diff drain plug off and count the teeth on the ring gear. Sometimes you get lucky and find the part number, tooth count, or ratio stamped on the gear.

Common if the car ever spent any time in the rust belt or near enough to the ocean to get the salt spray from the beach. Likely what you see is just surface rust and could be sanded down and painted.

The trans I might gamble on. But it's usually cheap enough to grab the whole shebang from a u-pull. What year? What engine does it have?

Might get lucky with the trans, depending on how fast they went, but the engine is probably toast. How many miles on it? When was the last timing belt replacement? Was the water pump replaced at that time?