Fairtax4me

Pilot bearing only spins when the clutch is disengaged, which is pedal down. As said before, applying only light pressure to the clutch pedal will seat the release bearing against the pressure plate and should make any release bearing noise either increase or stop. If the noise does not go away until the pedal is fully depressed, that would be input shaft bearing.

Legacy, Impreza, forester of that era all use the same front knuckle. All trims and sub models. (Outback, Outback sport, etc. 95-99 anything should work. Check opposedforces.com for specific interchange. I would not be comfortable having that mechanic do any more work to the car. It's not rocket science that the knuckle has to be supported to press the bearing out. In a way you're lucky it broke, because the knuckle would have deformed and caused other problems had he actually been able to remove and replace the bearing. Don't bother replacing the bearing in the other knuckle. Just swap the whole knuckle/hub assembly.

Seals are cheap enough from a dealer. If you can't find a good kit with seals just get the seals separate rather than going cheap on the major parts just to get a kit with seals included. Whining isn't typically a wheel bearing issue. This is also not something I would cheap-out on if the bearings have to be pressed in. Rear bearings are bolt-on for that year so are easier to replace if a cheaper part doesn't last.

A couple things I've found through my years as a DIY mechanic. Torquing the lugs ONE time in order often does not bring all of them to the proper torque. Because of the way the wheel moves slightly as you tighten the lugs, it often means the first lug nut tightened will be under-torqued by the time you finish tightening. Torquing the lugs a second time in order will bring all of them to the proper torque. Because every wheel these days is "hub-centric", any rust or corrosion of the hub or the center bore of the wheel can prevent full seating of the wheel against the hub. This can cause the lugs to be tight to the proper torque, but once the car is driven the wheel can shift on the hub and the lug nuts will then be loose. Rust, dirt, or corrosion on the flat face of the wheel or on the surface of the hub or brake rotor can cause similar issues. It's best to thoroughly clean these areas when the wheel is off, and apply a rust preventive grease or anti-seize to the hub center and wheel-hub face. Do not apply Anti-seize on the lug studs. Good idea in theory. It keeps the lug nuts from rusting to the studs. The problem is it also lowers the static friction co-efficient of the threading on the studs. This makes it easier for the lug nuts to loosen. Apply a light coating of thin oil rather than anti-seize to help prevent rusting of the lug studs. If rust is a major issue in your area, buy closed end style lug nuts. Make sure your torque wrench is calibrated properly. Click-type torque wrenches use springs in the click mechanism which stretch with time and use, and need to be adjusted or replaced periodically. Make sure the wrench is set to its lowest setting when not in use to extend the life of the springs. Keeping the setting high all the time will cause the springs to relax and the wrench will click at a much lower torque than the setting. Beam type wrenches do not have this problem, but if the wrench is old and has been frequently used for many years the beam can start to deflect more than its supposed to. These are much easier to determine torque with though, and you can figure out how much extra torque to add, if necessary, without special tools to get the accurate torque.

You're attempting to turn it by hand in the clockwise direction? It's going to be very difficult to turn it because you'll have to compress the valve springs to get it back into time. When the cam snaps out of place its because the valves have closed. This is no cause for concern. But it does take some effort to get it to turn back to where its supposed to be. Use a wrench on the head of the bolt that holds the sprocket on to turn it back to position.

Where does it say that it won't be available with a manual? The automatic has been standard equipment since 2005 IIRC. Manuals were optional.

Fuel mixture does not affect the heater circuit. It's either wiring or the heater element in the sensor has failed.

They usually just pull straight off, but can be stuck on pretty good sometimes. Wiggle and pull. If it doesn't budge at all you may need a puller. There are holes in the front of the pulley that can be threaded for use with a harmonic balancer puller. Problem is you have to tap the threads first. Do not use a jaw type puller since that can damage the pulley.

This is NOT normal, and is a temporary fix at best for a failing or stuck solenoid. Modern cars do not need help making the emissions control systems work. Something is wrong with the components of the system if cycling the key actually helps.

Not the clutch. Your pressure is too high.

Pull the front covers and check timing. It has probably jumped. Still having compression at all is a good sign that the valves may not be bent. Yet.

Easier to just unplug the injectors. Fuel pump relay is way up in the corner of the firewall, not easy to get to. Fuse should be in the dash panel IIRC, but if you have to pull plugs the injectors are right there. Also unplug the igniter in the center of the firewall, or unplug the coil connector to disable spark.

If the sensor at the top is the one with the two small hoses leading to it, you probably switched the hoses by accident. That's a valve that controls air flow out of the tank and will prevent the tank from venting properly while refueling. There are some other valves and hoses that go to the charcoal canister that can clog or stick open/closed and cause problems, but the valve at the top of the filler is a common issue after replacement of the filler. Swap the hoses and see if that fixes it.

When you move the selector to park, does the selector feel like it doesn't move all the way to park? Does the selector pop out of the park position? Or, when you move the selector to park and take your foot off the brake, the car still rolls?

Burned valves are very unlikely to affect two cylinders simultaneously. 1&3 are the passenger side cylinders. When a pair on one side or the other is affected that usually indicates a timing problem. Do not drive the car until you verify that the timing belt is in tact and has not skipped teeth. The 25D is an interference engine and will bend valves if the timing belt breaks or skips too far. The "P" at the end of a DTC means it is a pending code. This is usually seen on the first occurance of a two-tip fault. The fault has to be present for two trip cycles in order to illuminate the CEL. With misfire codes it means the ECU has detected a misfire, but has not counted enough misfires within a certain period to light the CEL.

Basically, there is a set of contacts in the Nuetral safety switch on the side of the trans that send a a signal to the ECM when the switch is in either Park or Nuetral, when the key is turned to start. Corrosion in the Nuetral switch or in the terminals in the nuetral switch connector can cause enough drop in voltage across the contacts that the ECM does not get the signal when the key is turned. This can also cause starting problems since the same contacts also send voltage to the starter solenoid. Low voltage there could cause the solenoid not to engage. There is also a large 12 pin connector that the voltage must pass through while on its way to and from the Nuetral switch. If you follow the wires from the Nuetral switch up the side of the trans you will find the other connector. Check inside both connectors for any sign of dirt or corrosion before replacing the Nuetral switch. Sometimes just unplugging the connectors and reconnecting them will remove light oxidation from between the terminals and restore normal conductivity. If cleaning and reconnecting the two connectors does not fix the problem then you should replace the nuetral switch. There could still be a wire issue that will need more specific testing, but wire issues are not common in these cars.

6 months is probably the best you can hope for with a sealer in a bottle treatment. Blue-devil is probably the most successful type that I've seen, but its certainly not to be used more than once. For $10 a month you bought a decent chunk of time.

Timig could have jumped again. The tensioners in those fail often and don't keep proper tension on the belt which allows it to skip. Recheck timing. You know it at least runs well now, so of the timing skipped again order a full timing kit with new tensioner and water pump.

Ethylene glycol really isn't bad, just don't eat it. You should be wearing gloves anyway since you'll be handling -60C cold stuff. How much do you plan to use?

The usual cause for knock is too lean fuel mixture. Possible it's leaning out at that engine speed/load combination. Have you inspected or replaced the knock sensor?

P0440 is one of the early codes and its really vague, so finding the cause can be tricky. A few things to check. These are famous for the fuel filler pipe in the right rear wheel well rusting out and developing pinhole leaks. Remove the plastic cover over the filler and check it for wetness/fuel. Replacements are about $120 new. Used can sometimes be a good option if you can find one that was recently replaced. Depending on model year you could have the charcoal canister under the hood, or at the back of the car behind the right rear wheel. If its under the hood make sure the hoses are connected properly. One of those hoses leads to the evap system purge solenoid which is under the intake manifold on the passenger side. With some poking around and a flashlight you can figure out which. Remove that one from the canister and try to blow through it. No air should pass. If you have the canister at the back of the car there is a small hose that connects to the intake manifold on top of the throttle body that leads to the purge solenoid. Use that hose for the same test. Then find the green test mode plugs under the dash near the steering column, connect them and turn the key ON. The solenoid should click in roughly 1/2 second intervals. Blow into the hose again and air should flow then stop in conjunction with the clicking of the solenoid. If the solenoid doesn't click its dead. If no air flows at all the solenoid is clogged. If air flows all the time the solenoid is stuck open. I've had mice/squirrels chew the evap lines next to the tank at the back and had to replace those (which is not easy or fun). Check over all of the hoses near the tank and the canister if the canister is rear-mounted.

No difference between axles for GT, L, Outback, or any other model from 1990 to 2009 at least. In 2000 they put the tone wheel for the ABS on the end of the axle but that is easily removed/installed. Aftermarket axles are notorious for being crap. Most of them have significantly larger cups than the stock Subaru axles, and they break all the time. OE subaru acles are MUCH higher quality, even if the boots are split. Use car-part.com to find good used Subaru axles with the green cups, or search the pick-n-pull type yards. Usually less than $35. Re-boot them if needed.

Two things: 1: axial play at the axle cup on the diff does NOT suggest the carrier bearing is bad. The axles are not connected to, nor do they pass through, the carrier bearings. Rumbling from the back is probably a bad wheel bearing, which is fairly common. Worn bearings in the differential are not common. Its uncommon to have any problems at all from the rear diff. 2: You don't need to remove any of that to get the rear diff out. It's really much easier than the service manual makes it out to be. But, thoroughly check the wheel bearings first, because you probably don't need to remove the rear diff.

Inside the manifold will appear oily because of the vapors from the PCV/breather system. This is normal, But there is a point where it becomes excessive. With repeat codes for the MAP sensor, there is likely a wiring issue for that sensor. These MAP sensors rarely fail. Low compression numbers and power loss at low RPM, points to a timing belt issue. Did you do the compression test the way John described above?

It's when you drive your car instead of riding the bike...