Fairtax4me

Glad to hear you got it sorted out! Never a good feeling when something doesn't pan out the first time, but the satisfaction after finally getting it fixed always seems to make up for it. The Germans like to use flat tappet followers (where the cam rides directly over the lifter, directly over the valve) which you expect to see some wear on immediately after break-in. The Roller style followers used in these japanese engines don't show any real wear unless the roller seizes in the rocker arm, and that takes some serious neglect to accomplish. Usually see the cams seize in the head or the rod bearings chewed to bits before a roller locks up.

Did you clean the retainers and wipe out any dirt or crud from the threads and the back of the bearing cups?

The interlock switch in the center console may be sticky. When the selector is moved out of park the switch activates a solenoid in the column which keeps the key from turning back all the way to Lock. Usually the cause is a drink spilled in the center console. Pull up the console trim and clean everything around the shifter assembly. Less likely but still possible is the solenoid in the column is getting stuck.

Since the fuel guage dropped that sounds like it may have blown a fuse. Check all the fuses and fusible links. There is a problem with the 00-04 fuel pump assembly's that bleeds off the fuel pressure back into the tank. It causes poor drivability and starting problems, then eventually the engine won't start at all. Search for " fuel pump cap o-ring". I don't know if they carried the same fuel pump design into 05, but its a possibility. I would check fuel pressure with a guage to be sure its ok. You could also pull the pump assembly to inspect it. Try clearing the codes and see what comes back.

As long as its between the marks its fine. These do tend to use about 1/2 quart between changes, so if you want to fill it to the full mark it will ensure the level is sufficient until the next change without having to add. Just don't overfill it. That said, be sure to check the level at least every two weeks. It's best to check in the morning before starting.

Because its a pressure problem with that one rocker shaft. The feed still has an obstruction. I think the feed end of the shaft is at the front on the drivers side. Need to remove the cap on the feed end and make sure the feed hole in the rocker shaft is clear. Compressed air is good to help blow out the feed holes. I usually just use brake cleaner though. The lifters on the exhaust side may be stuck in position and are not bleeding down.

The shift interlock click is normal. Dimming lights is normal. People like to blame this on a failing alternator, but most of the time its just because the alternator is old. Have had many cars do this with no problems from the alternator. My 96 Legacy has done this since I bought it over 4 years ago, alternator still works fine.

The knock sensor is designed to sense knocks. This is how the ECU knows when the engine is knocking, and it responds by retarding the ignition timing. When you get a code for the sensor that means there is a problem with the sensor or the wiring to the sensor. Most of the time the sensor is bad, or the base of the sensor has corroded and is not grounded properly. P0420 code is a separate issue with dozens of different causes. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks. Search for Cardocs diagnostic thread for p0420, its a very informative read.

New lifters are often louder until they get pumped up all the way. If its just one lifter making noise, drive the car for 20 minutes or so and it should pump up and stop making noise. If not, the feed hole in that one rocker arm could be clogged.

Yes. You need to remove the rocker shaft assembly from the head and disassemble it to thoroughly clean the oil feed passage for the rockers. Also remove the lifters from the rockers and clean out the feed holes in the rocker arms. I should also add that the rockers will be Very LOUD for about 15-30 minutes after initial startup until they have pumped up completely.

Be sure to check over all of the PCV and breather hoses as well. New air and fuel filters are always in order with a new car. Replace the PCV valve if its old. New from Subaru is the best way to go. Clean the MAF sensor, run half a bottle of Seafoam in the intake, put the other half in the fuel tank to help clean the injectors. Or get a bottle of Lucas fuel system cleaner. (Tune-up In a Bottle) Spark plugs would be next after Seafoam.

Lifting the car is no way to tell if suspension parts are worn because the weight of the wheel/tire and suspension will pull everything down to the same point. As said before, it just means the car isn't being lifted evenly. Either because there is more weight on one side, or because the surface under the vehicle is not level. If you want to test that, get a long 2x4 and a long level. Cut the 2x4 so the ends sit on the inner lips of the fenders with the hood open preferably up as close to the strut towers as possible. Hold the level on the front of the 2x4, center the bubble, and draw a line on the 2x4 across the top of the level. Now lift the car until the one wheel is just touching the ground. Re-center the level and draw another line. The best check you can do to measure suspension height is measure the distance from the center of the wheel to the lip of the fender while the car is off the ground. Compare left to right. If one strut is different this will tell you. If the car sits unevenly when on perfectly level ground (concrete pad) then it could have a worn out spring. To determine this measure from the wheel center to the bottom fender lip. This has to be done on perfectly level ground or your measurements will be all over the place. As for hoisting the car to see if all 4 corners come off the ground at the same time, this never works. Most hoists do not lift perfectly evenly. One side tends to be higher than the other on every hoist I've ever used. Also, the front suspension tends to have less travel than the rear, which means the rear tires will usually still be touching when the front tires are totally off the ground.

If the rest of the car is absolutely perfect, yes. But be sure to ask if the engine has ever been overheated. The EJ25D does not hold up to overheating, and the end result is usually a rod through the top of the block. If it has not been overheated, the EJ25D is fine. Though the first things on the list of preventative maintenance would be head gaskets, a valve adjustment, and a full timing kit. But if you have to pay a shop to do any of this, its going to be several thousand dollars of work, and would make it not worth the $3,000 price tag.

The axle stubs do not come out of the trans unless the case is opened. This means there is no chance of damaging the axle seals during an axle change. They are not exposed to dirt or sharp edges during an axle change which is generally when axle seals start leaking. Many EJ transmissions make it 250k miles or more and never have leaks from the axle seals.

Can't recommend a dealer, but wanted to say good luck with your purchase! The 14 Foz is awesome, and the XT is an absolute blast to drive. Even if you don't plan to buy one, take one for a test drive for gits and shiggles.

The neutral position switch on the trans tells the ECU when the transmission is in gear. This changes the way the ECU responds when you take your foot off the gas pedal depending on if you're coasting in neutral, or engine braking in gear. If the ECU thinks the trans is in neutral when you take your foot off the gas, it tries to set the engine speed to idle. It will usually hold a high idle for a second or so (long enough to shift gears) to make shifting easier, but then it will settle to normal idle speed. When the NPS goes bad the ECU may think the trans is in neutral, when it is actually in gear. It tries to set the engine to idle speed, but can't because the drivetrain is turning the engine during engine braking. The ECU will set a code for the Idle control system, thinking the idle valve is stuck, when it can't set the engine to idle speed. The neutral switch doesn't often fail though, and can be intermittent for a long period before setting a code. Generally if you have this code its because of some other problem causing the ECU to have to adjust the idle valve as far as it can, and then still need to adjust further in order to set proper idle speed. Sometimes it is caused by a fault in the idle control motor, but there will usually be other symptoms like rough, low, or high idle, or "hunting" for idle.

Gonna have to be more specific than that. What engine and transmission? How many miles? Have you done any work to the car? Tune-up? Is the engine warm or cold when this happens?

Look in the phone book and call a local machine shop. Probably will cost $175-$250 per head if you need to have the valves replaced. Could also check on www.car-part.com to find used heads near you. Used heads may still need to have the gasket surface milled, but will not need valve work.

Yes it's possible. Look up Cobb Tuning. They sell units to do it yourself.

Check for vacuum leaks like ^ said. Also clean the throttle body bore and throttle plate. Which switch did you disconnect? The one that matters is on the side of the trans. It's easy to check with an ohmmeter.

When these lifters bleed out they are LOUD. Very common for the oil feed in the rocker shaft to plug with bits of RTV and starve the lifters of oil. Easy fix though, takes about two hours to remove, disassemble, clean, and re-install the rocker assembly. 3 bolts on the valve cover, 8 bolts to get the rocker assembly off of the head. Spin the engine over with a 22mm socket until all the valves on that head close. Find the timing mark on the cam sprocket, it should point straight down when all of the valves are closed. With the valves closed there is no spring pressure on the rocker arms. Then remove the bolts for the rocker assembly. To disassemble the rocker shaft assembly remove the 10mm bolt from one of the end caps and slide the rockers off of the shaft. Be sure to keep track of the rocker arms and the spring washers. Lay them out in order as you remove them, be sure they go back on in the same order. Oil the rockers and the rocker shaft before re-assembly. Auto2, lifters in these do not touch the cams. The rocker arms have rollers that ride on the cam, the lash adjusters are on the other end of the rocker arm and push on top of the valve stem. Perfectly fine to replace the lifters on the ej22, no matter the mileage.

Go to a dealer just before dark. Most sales departments are open until 8 or 9pm. Just ask a sales person to let you look in one to compare.

How bad is it? You should be able to get around 24-28 mpg. 10-12 km/l Poor fuel economy can have several causes. Dirty air and fuel filters. Worn spark plugs, old/clogged PCV valve, dirty/clogged fuel injectors. Low tire pressure, incorrect tire size, or sticking/dragging brakes will hurt fuel economy as well.

Make sure the solenoid wire didnt just slip off the spade on the solenoid. I've had that happen once when I didn't get it plugged all the way in properly.

Yeah the old plastic inserts get rounded out if the screws have been in them for a long time and get rusted. You can get to them from inside, but not easily. You need a long set of needle hose pliers and kinda have to go from the side. There are two openings inside in the trunk lid on either side of the license plate. If you sit IN the trunk, (with your legs hanging out) pull the lid down, and look into the openings you can see where the inserts are. Reach on there with the pliers and grab the plastic insert and twist it some until it breaks. Or if you have some needle nose vice grips you can grab them to hold them still while you turn the screws. You can buy new inserts and screws at most auto parts stores.