Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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Gloyale said it a little more clearly than I. Yes, these seals are done differently than most other cars, but they generally do not pose a problem because the stub shafts allow axle replacement without disturbing the seals. Personally I've only seen one that was leaking, and it was on a transmission I had taken apart to replace the mainshaft bearings on. I just didnt get the stub and seal clean enough before putting the case halves back together. It started leaking about 6 months later. -
Seals are pressed in from the back side of the retainer. Have to remove it to remove the seal on both auto and manual trans.
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Not necessarily, but it will give you extra room. Plus I think the old fans have metal shrouds which can be big time knuckle busters. Only like 4 bolts though. Basically remove the alt and AC belts, swing the alt up out of the way, remove the 2 bolts from the AC tensioner bracket and get that out of the way. The 2 end covers have 3 bolts each, which will probably break the plastic. Remove those and you can check the cams against each other. Then romove the crank pulley. Put the trans in 5th gear and set the parking brake or chock the wheels to hold the crank still. Center cover has 8-9 bolts. Line up the notch on the tooth on the BACK of the crank timing sprocket with the notch in the oil pump housing. The dash marks on the outer edge of the cam sprockets should point more or less at the notches in the timing covers. A half tooth off isn't a big deal, and usually the driver side cam looks like its about a half tooth off anyway.
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You do not have to pull the trans. Just be sure to mark the retainer well and count how many rotations it takes to remove it. Clean the area around the retainer and the output stub as well as you can before removing the retainer. Wire brush it to get any dirt/grit out of the groove between the retainer and case, and make sure no grit can fall into the retainer bore while you're working.
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Put it on a bench so the hub is facing up. Wire brush any crud/rust out of the way where the axle stub sticks out. Then fill the little cup on the hub with PB and let it sit. Every now and then smack the end with a 3lb hammer. If the PB drains out spray some more in. ATF works pretty well also. After a few weeks of that, if the hammer strikes haven't freed it up, rent a hub puller from a parts store. Put some pressure on it with the puller then smack the end of the puller with the hammer. Just make sure you don't mushroom the end of the puller.
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Did you check ATF level with the engine running? How did the fluid look? Was it clean and red or kinda brown and dirty looking?
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It could be that the gas in your area has gone to spoob recently. If the regular gas is causing detonation it could be because the octane content of the gas is less than its supposed to be. In which case higher octane fuel would fix the problem, and the knock sensor would be working properly. It could also be that the knock sensor is malfunctioning in an "ultra-sensitive" manner, which is a pretty common failure mode. It's taking small knocks, and telling the ECU they're big knocks, so its pulling the timing more than it needs to. Higher octane fuel eliminates the knocks, thus, no more pulled timing.
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Yes, each spark plug tube has its own seal. Generally when you catch the problem early you find one spark plug with a little bit of oil around it. When it gets really bad, both seals go bad and both spark plug tubes fill up to the top with oil. The oil in the spark plug tube can cause arcing of the spark through the oil and cause a misfire if there is enough oil in the tube. This can also fry the coil if not fixed. One problem leads to another leads to another leads to another. Make sure that the gasket set you buy has the spark plug tube seals, and the grommets for the bolts.
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Oil on the outside of the plug is from a leaking valve cover gasket. This is very common, and a cheap and easy DIY fix. If there was just oil on the tip of the plug inside the engine, that could be a head gasket, or a more serious problem. Since the number 4 was burned on the end, that probably means the coil for number 4 is now burned out.
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The only thing they share in common is the fuse. If the fuse blows because of the lighter socket the mirrors are unaffected. All the excess amperage was going to the lighter socket which caused the fuse to blow. If the fuse blows because the wiring to the socket crossed with wiring to another circuit such as the radio or blower motor, then you have a chance of back feeding to the mirror circuit and damaging something. So did it short because the socket physically broke? Or because the wiring chafed and shorted to another wire?
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Doesn't matter of its turbo or not. The knock sensor does the same thing. It pulls timing if it detects knocks. Lots more goes into detonation than just running lean. Fuel octane is a big factor and so is compression ratio. If your engine burns any oil that can also cause detonation. Excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chambers or on the pistons will cause detonation. Big problem wih the knock sensors on these is the housing cracks and the sensor element gets corroded. Then it sends false signals. ECU pulls timing because it thinks its knocking.
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AWD donuts = FTW. Did some of those in the last snowstorm we got. 14" of fluff on the ground and crashing through 3 foot snow banks to get to the unplowed stuff! Only about 10" in this lot. They had plowed before the major part of the storm. The sidewalks were untouched though.
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2000+ axles have different spline count on the inner right? The next phase for my car will likely involve an automagic trans, so ill keep this in mind. This I will definitely try.
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Cars101.com has instructions for this. Many times a weak transmitter battery will cause intermittent/strange operation of the remotes. Usually the battery can be replaced without having to reprogram the remote.
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2 easy ways. Look at the valve covers. EJ22 has distinct valve covers. The 25 has basically flat valve covers. Front timing cover. Ej22 has one round area at each end, because its a single overhead cam engine. (Like pictured above) Ej25 of that era has a much larger bowtie shaped cover with two rounded areas at each end. It is a Dual Overhead cam engine. Pictured in this link: http://www.alnjdmautomotors.com/index.php/96-99-subaru-forester-legacy-outback-2-5l-dohc-engine-jdm-ej25d-ej25.html
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Well... Yours needs an engine. Probably looking at $1500-$2000 total to have one installed, even if your buddy is cheap on labor. But if the rest of the car is in good shape, then fixing what you have is usually the best way to go. The other car (Forester wasnt available until 98, could it be a 98?) could be a simple fix, but transmission problems are usually expensive. And there's also an issue of what else does the car need? Worn out tires, brakes, suspension, steering parts, rusted out exhaust, all possibilities. One at a time, these are not too expensive, but if everything is worn out (usually is at 200k) they all add up to $1,500 or more in parts and labor. If you can do most of the work yourself (most can be done with a basic set of hand tools) then it could be a cheaper option, but it would be wise to find out exactly what it needs beforehand. If you live in an area that does emissions testing and requires it to pass before it can be registered, it can get really expensive really quick if it doesn't pass.
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Split my 3rd inner axle boot in the past year today. Which could be because I keep using junkyard axles and $5 boot kits... but still starting to get on my nerves a bit. Cv grease on a hot cat stinks something bad! I'd be interested in a set for the front for sure if they can handle even more of a lift than I currently have.
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2.2 swaps are common because the 2.5 of that era was plagued by bad head gaskets causing overheating and failing rod bearings. The 2.2 was available in the Legacy L models through 99. In 96 the Legacy Outback model could be bought with a 2.2 only if it had a manual transmission. In 97 all of the Legacy Outback models came with the DOHC 2.5 engine, whether automatic or manual trans.
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Just because the sensor finishes the monitor checks doesn't mean its actually good. The range of acceptability for a good sensor output is a lot wider than the range they set for the effiency check. Basically for the sensor, the heater has to work, the sensor has to start making voltage within X amount of time, and the voltage output has to be within the range of the sensor. The voltage varies slightly with different sensor designs, but the gyst is the same. The catalyst monitor has to use those sensor outputs. It compares output from the front sensors with output from the rear sensors, and uses those to determine if the cats are functioning properly. Subarus are finicky about this, Subaru doesn't set a really wide range for the difference between the sensor outputs. So if one sensor is slightly out of range, it can set off the P0420 code, without setting a code for the sensor. Sometimes a new sensor is the cure. Sometimes you need a new cat. Most of the time its something like an exhaust leak, or vacuum leak, or dirty injectors, something that causes the fuel mixture to be too rich or lean, or one of the O2 sensors to give a false reading.
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Have to pay attention to the IAC when you start poking with different engines. Also fuel injector style. Top feed vs side feed. Other sensors may swap, but if the IAC or injectors are a different design you will need to swap intake manifolds. Then you have to figure whether or not the 2.5 manifold will bolt onto the 2.0 heads. It may be possible to use a 2.2 manifold. That's all I can think of. Checked Car-part.com yet?
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Got the new u-joints today. They look to be a good match. Gonna try to mess with getting the old joints out tomorrow on lunch if I have time.
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The high beam indicator should not be coming on when you push the fog lamp switch. Did you mean the fog lamp indicator? (Should be a yellow or green light) Have you checked the fuses for these lights?
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Could be several things. If you feel it in the wheel focus on front suspension and axles. After that I would suspect driveshaft u-joints (if you can duplicate the problem by accelerating quickly) or possibly a problem with the AWD transfer clutches. Is the shake speed related? Shakes harder/faster if you're going fast than it does when going slow? Does it change if you press lightly on the brake pedal? (Just enough to make the brakes start slowing you down) What about if you brake heavily?
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P0130 is one front sensor. P0136 is the other front sensor. 1133 is a heater malfunction which would usually indicate a bad sensor. None of these have to be messed with to change that exhaust gasket, but if that gasket went bad it sounds like you have some rust issues, which could also mean corrosion of the sensors. Odd to have both bite the dust at the same time for sure, but none of those codes really scream wire problem to me. B134/136 are the ECU connector and should be under a panel under the passenger carpet.
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You said in the first post that the noise doesn't change with engine or vehicle speed, which to me would rule out axles. They typically make more noise (louder) when under load, and will change with vehicle speed. Did you check the transverse bushings for grease leaking out?
