Fairtax4me

The security module is in the dash to the right of the glove box. If you can find it, just unplug it. The light itself is an LED and won't drain the battery, but the security module might start doing other things that can cause the battery to drain, like flashing the headlights or parking lights, or flipping the locks all night long.

Do you have a 3 wire or 4 wire type? On a 3 wire, most of the time one of the ends is 5V, the other end is ground. Middle pin is signal varies from about 0.5v at closed throttle to about 4.5v at wide open. There can be exceptions where the pins are mixed around. If you have a 3 wire make sure you have 5v at the sensor. Also, do all testing with the meter grounded to the battery -. On the 4 wire type the extra pin is a switch contact and will read 5v when the throttle is closed. This pin could be on one end, or could be in the middle, depending on who made the sensor. If the sensor is not adjusted properly you will not get voltage on this pin because the contacts never close when the throttle closes. The other 3 pins act the same as a 3 wire unit.

If you have a welder and pipe available, weld it. It's not ideal, but shouldn't cause any trouble short term.

Go to Napa and get a split repair flange and some longer bolts. Should be 1-3/4" size.

Is that with the engine running?

Is the plug going to be inside the car? Could probably get a generic 6 pin connector at Radio shack, cut the factory plugs off. If it doesn't need to be removed, just cut the plugs out entirely and solder the wires together.

If you can get to it to see it, look for a brand name on the side. Usually the OE ones are Bosch or Denso. Also, unplug it and look VERY carefully at the connector on the sensor. Compare that with listings for new sensors to be sure you get the correct one. Sometimes there are more than one type available and they can can look exactly the samemon the outside, but work differently, so they use different plugs so you can plug in the wrong one.

4 mounts total. Two under the engine and they're the same part, just one on each side. Trans type doesn't matter for engine mounts. Trans mount is at the rear of the trans and different depending on AT/ MT and 2WD/AWD. Then there is a dogbone mount on top which is the same part on all.

EGR valves hardly ever go bad on these. The problem is usually either a vacuum leak, or the diaphragm in the Back-Pressure Transducer valve is ruptured. BPT valve is the black plastic cylinder next to the EGR. Most of the time you can get a good one used for cheap at a u-pull junkyard. Otherwise, its a dealer only part as far as I know.

I learned long ago to open boxes, check the parts, and compare part numbers to the invoice. I've recieved several incorrect parts through online orders over the years. Most recently I got a strut mount that was the wrong part. Had the correct part number on the box. Part that was in the box was wrong. Had to wait a few extra days for the correct part to arrive. But better that than having the car torn apart and finding out the part is wrong, then to do everything all over again, or re-use the old rusted about to fall apart mount. No way I was gonna do either.

Mine has actual play in the bearings. They're shot. Had I noticed sooner I would have considered knocking the caps out and re-packing them, but I don't want the car down for days or weeks if it doesnt work out. I also had an idea to drill into the center of the joints and thread in a grease fitting so they will be serviceable. I want to have a spare on hand to try that with though. Ordered one tonight so ill play around with that idea in a few weeks after I have the old one off of the car.

Well at least for the time being you'll be riding an inch lower. Did you check the part number on the strut to make sure they sent the correct strut?

With the cable off you can move the fork around about an inch or so. But try not to move it around too much because you can break the clips off of the release bearing and cause a lot more problems. Did the old cable actually break?

I usually put about 4 turns on each compressor, switching back and forth as I go to compress the spring evenly. When putting the strut back in I bolt the top in loosely then just push down on the knuckle to get the bolt hole lined up. Then you can move the strut around if you need to, and don't have to worry about a jack slipping out from under it.

So I thought before that I had an Outback u-joint. Found that in the shed and compared it to the old stock u-joint from my car, and they're the same. So it appears I was mistaken about that one, or it came from a 95 Outback maybe, dunno. On to searching part numbers, found a thread here with pics of two different u-joint couplers with a tape measure. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/99813-legacy-steering-u-joint/ The one on the left is supposedly for a 96-99 Outback. Went out and measured the center section length of the one on my car and it appears to be the same, or at least close enough. Problem solved! Just have to find/ order one now. Thanks for the idea John!

Generally huge amounts of oil have to come from a pressure source, like the pressure switch, or from a cam or crank seal. Clean as much of that off as you can. Then start it and let it run and see if you can find out where its dripping from.

Yeah. All you need is a small pair of pliers, and 10mm & 12mm box wrenches. Loosen the lock nut on the threaded section at the release lever. Pull the cable forward and up out of the hook on the lever, then reach down and push the cable sheath out of the bracket on the transmission. Inside the car, use the pliers to remove the lock clip that holds the sheath to the bracket. Then twist the cable up slightly and push to the side to remove the end of the cable from the pedal assembly. Lift the shear up out of the bracket, then pull the cable into the car through the firewall. Install in reverse of removal. To adjust the cable, turn the adjusting nut until you have about 1/4" of free play in the release lever. Then tighten the lock nut. If you have the hill holder you may need to adjust that as well.

If it has just been sitting then it could have water damage. Especially if it got snowed on and was never cleared off. Power door lock timer problems are common.

Firestone #1 probably didn't loosen the lock nut on the rear camber adjuster bolts. The small differences in camber afterward probably means they just reset the toe and the camber pulled into spec on its own. Is it just scary now?

I don't remember if the rails are the same for left and right, but you could try pulling the rails out of the manifold and swapping them side to side. Then the metal lines should fit the correct way. Another option if you have some room under the hood would be to get some intake spacers. They're around $150 for a set last I saw. The solenoid is unnecessary if you don't have a charcoal canister. You will have codes for the evap system if you are running the stock ECU. If you're piggy-backing or running a standalone then you don't need to worry about it.

Yeah they string everything together on networks these days. Makes it easier for the computers to talk back and forth. And as unbelievable as it may sound, there are fewer wires involved. Only takes two wires to send a signal from one module to another. The problem now is, you have a separate module for every little thing. Door lock module, power window module, sunroof module, power seat module, lighting module... everything electrical has a control module. And if one of those modules decides to go haywire it can send signals to all the others and make all kinds of weird poo happen. The trick is figuring out which module has gone off its rocker, which does usually require a high end scan tool, and some pretty extensive knowledge of how the system works. Find out if they can track down a used module instead of paying big money for a new one.

As far as I know the crank is different. If you can't get the bolt out just put your heads on the other block.

Ah, yeah. I didn't see the end of the crank in the first pic so I assumed you got it out. Might be able to make a small notch in the end with a chisel. Just enough to get an edge to turn it out with. Otherwise, this would be one of the few scenarios where I would try an e-z-out.

That's the signal wire from the computer which should have about 1-3 volts on it when the engine is running. By supplying voltage to the pin via the test light, you're charging a capacitor either in the ECM or the Igniter which is then opening and closing the ground circuit for the coil. (The igniter controls the ground side of the coil) The longer you hold it there the longer the capacitor charges. Once the capacitor discharges, there is no power to open and close the ground for the coil, so you get no more spark. You'll want to check for voltage on that pin at the igniter. If there is less than 1v, check voltage on that wire at the ECU. Should have between 1 and 3 volts. If you have no voltage at the ECU, wiggle the connector while testing. If still nothing, turn the engine off, unplug the ECU connector and check for corrosion on the pins. If the pins are clean, probably need a new ECU.

Oh that ones still in good shape. The one on my 95 is like that. The pulley runs a little weird, but that could be because its a junkyard pulley. I've seen pictures of much much worse. File down the rough spots and fit a new key with a little JB weld on that worn side. Let it dry then file it smooth so the new sprocket and pulley will slide over it. While you have it all apart, pull the oil pump off and check the screws that hold the backing plate on the pump. They can get loose and back out. Get a new pump o-ring from the dealer (the little blue one), and a new front seal. Use Anaerobic sealant on the pump flange. RTV makes little pieces that break off and can get stuck in the oil passages to the heads.