Fairtax4me

Shaft play is always oil starvation or overheating (of the oil). Was it dumping oil into the intake or the exhaust? Did you make sure the intercooler isn't blocked? Is the CEL on? If yes, the ECU could be in limp mode. Jut because the throttle plate is open doesn't mean engine speed will increase. Need to have fuel and spark timing advance from the ECU for engine speed to go up. Also have to have a clear path beyond the TB for air to get in, and the exhaust system must be clear so exhaust can be pushed out. If the Cats are plugged you can open the throttle 100% and it will sit at 900 rpm. Same with the intercooler, if it can't get enough air in. Conversely, the ECU can make the engine run at redline even with the throttle completely closed, just has to give it the right amount of fuel. Was it doing the same thing before you replaced the turbo?

Why was the turbo replaced? Are you sure you reconnected everything properly?

On the older models there is a black plastic cover on the side of the ABS module under the hood with a couple of relays and fuses under it. It could be referencing one of those. The ABS on these is kind of fickle. I've confused mine several times (usually in snow or mud) and had the light come on and the system disabled. Cycling the ignition key resets it and everything works normally again. I wouldn't worry about it too much unless the code comes back.

Bad ECT sensor telling the ECU the engine temp is -40° all the time. Or could be a plugged fuel pressure regulator. Codes have to be pulled with a scanner. Limp it to a parts store, most will read codes for free. Post up the code numbers here if you need help figuring out what to fix.

Searched for an hour today, no luck finding the button. Checked on the interwebz and didn't find much help. Read that it could be mounted near the hood latch (not there), or that it could be taped in the harness with the test mode and diagnostic plugs (not there either). Also read that the keyless entry module should be mounted under the dash on the drivers side, pocs of the module showed it is black (plastic housing?) and says "Keyless Entry Module" on the side. Found no such thing in this car. There was a module with a silver (metal) case, but the description on the side just said "Cont. Unit". What I do know, is that the car does appear to have a factory installed security system. The LED is mounted to a PCB inside the pop-out blank, and has "Security" printed in white on the blank just beneath the LED. The wiring for the LED runs over to a harness which is encased in a white plastic protective guard, which is bolted to the inside of the dash. Very limited access, you couldn't add wires to that harness without removing the dash. Looking at the wiring diagram for the Security system for 95, I see no switch for programming, and no wiring or references to a keyless entry module. I can find no diagram for a keyless entry system for 95. So unless I'm just missing something, I have a 95 with Security, but no Keyless Entry. Does anyone have pics, or know for sure where a Keyless entry module would be mounted from the factory in a 95 Legacy? Any pics of the programming button/switch or exactly which harness its supposedly taped up in?

Slave cylinder could be going bad. Pull the boot back and see if there is fluid in it. If yes, replace the slave cylinder.

Oil/fluid contamination of the belt. Some type of fluid dripping between the seams of the timig cover onto the belt. Steering pumps often leak onto the timing cover. Could also have been oil spilled onto the cover during an oil change. Either way, make sure the leak that put the oil there is fixed, or that will happen again.

MAKE SURE TO REPLACE THE WATER PUMP!!!! It's driven by the timing belt as well, and is not likely to last another 105k miles 'til the next timing belt service interval.

Why did you check the plugs and not replace them? Plugs can carbon track and foul easily when cold. Have you checked fuel pressure? Does it have new air and fuel filters?

Internal differences mostly. Some have to have a reference voltage from the ECU, which affects the output of the sensor. And of those there are 3 or 4 different designs which all use different reference voltages. Others create the voltage in the sensor. The outer cases can be slightly different, but not different enough to tell them apart unless you're the engineer that designed the sensor. The fun part is that just about all of them have 4 wires! So there's really no way to tell unless you KNOW which one you need. Pay close attention to the plug, because that's how the manufacturer keeps you from plugging in the wrong one.

This was fairly common in older cars. In newer cars there is supposed to be a resistor in parallel with the bulb so the alternator still charges even if the bulb burns out. I would have to suspect that the resistor in your dash cluster is burned out or has a poor solder joint, or is damaged in some other way.

Thanks! Glad the programming directions I found are correct. I wasnt sure since they came from a 97 Owners manual, but the procedure is the same as you just said so ill give it a try. Ill go button hunting this weekend. Hopefully I can find that remote somewhere around here and check the ID number on the back to see if its compatible.

New 6203 bearings at napa are like $5. Knock the old bearing out of the pulley, tap the new one in with a large socket. You'll need the whole engine and ECU harness for the 6. Not enough fuel injector wires in a 4 cyl harness to modify it to work. After that just sort out power and ground wires and a few others like speed input, ignition switch input, MT/AT identification. Should be pretty straight-forward once you get ECU I/O pinouts and compare them.

Take the cylinders out, to the local locksmith shop. Most can re-key any cylinder you bring in. Pick which key you want to use and have them match the cylinders to that key. Or have them cut a brand new key and match to that.

The rear parking lights on the sides get their power from the same place as the rear finisher and tag lights. If the problem is just the lifts in the lift-gate, its probably a break in the wiring where it hinges to go into the gate. In the right rear fender area there are two fairly large (8 pin) connectors. The power and ground wires for the lift-gate lights pass through one of those connectors. Power on a Black/Red or Brown/Red wire. Ground is a black wire in the small 2 pin plug next to the larger ones. Check at the bulbs for 12v. Check the ground wires for voltage too. If you have 12V on both wires its because the ground connection is bad.

Trying to figure out if a 95 Legacy with the security system (has the blinky red LED in the button blank under the instrument panel on the left side of the steering wheel) would also have the keyless entry antenna so I could program a remote to it? Girlfriends car. 95 LSi auto, leather, sunroof. She'd like to have keyless entry. I'm not familiar enough with the keyless system to know if its a given that if you have the blinky LED, you also had keyless entry. So I'm guessing ill have to fumble around under the dash some more and find the security module? If its possible this car could have Keyless remotes programmed to it, what style of remote(s) would I need to find? Google tells me it likely originally came with a Code Alarm GOH-M24 remote. Which was very common among several manufacturers, Ford, GM, Chrysler, Mitsubishi, BMW, Subaru... A few others. I occasionally see this style remote in junkyard cars so I'm thinking that I can grab one (or three) to try and see if it works. Somewhere I also have a newer Ford 2 button remote (the little square kind) that I may try to program. Am I on the right track here?

A lot of people use knock sensors from EBay/Amazon with good results. O2 sensor slow response is usually the sensor (happens when they get old), but it can be caused by other problems. Bosch O2 sensors will work fine. Do not get the universal fit type. Check the shape of the connector on your sensor (check carefully because some differences are minor), and compare to new sensors before you order. There are two or three different sensors that your car could have, and they work slightly differently than one another. Getting the wrong type of sensor will lead to more (worse) problems.

Springs and spacers and slightly larger tires are your best option for a couple inches of lift. If you need more than that you're looking into major work putting on a lift kit. Last time I checked the SJR kits don't include lengthened steering u-joint shafts, which are necessary for any lift block kit. Plus, those kits still don't improve overall ground clearance because they shift the body upwards, but not the crossmembers and drivetrain. It's basically like a body lift for a truck.

King offers several different spring rates which will effectively change the amount of lift you get out of the springs. So their highest rate which gives something like 2" (hypothetically) of lift on a 4 cyl model, might give the H6 model only 1.75" of lift. Not a huge difference IMO. Not enough to be concerned over, but the softer rate springs may not offer as much lift. But there are plenty of options for strut top spacers if the springs don't give quite as much lift as you want.

It's hard to screw up the end of the crankshaft. These pulleys don't always run perfectly still, so a bit of wiggle is expected. However, if you have it apart to check timing, its worth it to make sure the crank pulley sits flush against the timing sprocket. Check the bolt to see if its loose. (Try to loosen it) If it isn't loose don't mess with it. The inner section can sometimes separate from the outer section and spin. This usually results in the outer section being just a little wobbly, but the inner section still spins straight. But if left too long the outer section will spin off and can go flying or chew up the timing cover. Make a mark with white-out across the two sections, drive somewhere and see if the marks moved.

Does your sedan have the H6 engine? The H6 models have stiffer springs because the engine weighs more. Plus the 6 cars tend to have more goodies like leather power seats, and have more/heavier sound insulation. Curb weight on H6 models tends to be about 150lbs more than the 4 cyl models.

I figured it must have been a typo of some kind. I see listings on craigslist for reconditioned 96-99 Outbacks all the time selling for under $3500. That's with new head gaskets (or new engine in some cases), new timing parts, new/ good tires, good brakes, little or no body damage or rust, and clean interiors.

That's not a deal, that's a wreck ready for the heap IMO. That car is worth maybe $1500 in PERFECT shape. Needing work like that, $150 if she pays to tow it.

How long were you out of the car before the doors locked? Some of the newer cars have an "auto lock" feature. I don't think its supposed to work if the vehicle is running though. Are you sure you didn't bump the lock switch by accident while getting out of the car?

If the module is bad just leave it unplugged. It appears the black/white stripe is the ground for all of the lights. Jumping that wire to ground should make them turn on.