Fairtax4me

So... You've connected it to the car and it doesn't work? And again, How old is the car?

They work fine. But you need to make sure that when you disconnect the battery cables that the positive cable does NOT touch ANYTHING metal when it is disconnected from the battery. The power from the memory saver will back feed through the positive cable and will blow fuses if the positive cable touches anything. Also, you have to make sure the socket the saver is plugged into is powered when the key is not in the ignition. If the socket is not powered with the key out, no power will get to the rest of the electrical system, and the saver won't do you any good.

How old is your code reader and how old is your car? I have an innova 3130 that I've used for about 5-6 years and have read codes on Subarus up to 2014 with it. Innova has very comprehensive compatibility for general OBD2 readers, so you should be able to read codes related to the Check engine light. What it won't do on Subarus is read ABS, Transmission, Airbag, or some other specialty modules like alarm system, seat/body control, etc. If your check engine light is on and the scanner shows there are no codes, first verify that by using another scanner. Take the car to an auto parts store and have them scan it for free. If they can get codes to show up then something is wrong with your scanner. If not, then there's another problem that's causing the light to stay on possibly with one of the other aforementioned modules that can't be read by a general OBD scanner. For those you either have to have a dealer read codes, or buy the tactrix.

Not cheap enough. Why it hasn't sold yet. Find something more local, otherwise you're driving 12 hours to either get ripped off or come back empty handed.

What kind of gear oil did you put in it? Brand? Grade? Synthetic or conventional?

What kind of thermostat is in it? Can't cheap out on those because they'll cause symptoms just like that.

I'm pretty well out of idears then... Unless the valve springs are toast or something. Cam lobe worn enough to cause a valve opening problem should be pretty obvious.

Not necessarily. Lots of variables in whether or not a failure sets a code. An air leak between the MAF and throttle body won't set a code, but it will result in a false reading, which will cause it to run lean.

Fuel temp sensor is on the main pump assembly but it's not part of the actual pump. If he replaced the entire assembly then there's a wire issue or poor connection at the plug on top of the pump assembly. Rough running when cold could be a lot of things, fuel temp sensor is not one of them. Anything from a minor MAF leak to old spark plugs to a bad head gasket.

Tap into the key with a small chisel and use that to pry the key out. New key should slip right in.

Try lapping them for just a few turns and clean the compound off and see if the seats or valves have any uneven areas. That inner exhaust valve on number two isn't running hot enough. There's fairly heavy buildup on that valve, but not on the others. Kinda seems like either the margin is too wide or the valve isn't opening far enough or maybe not at the correct time.

That guide would have to be replaced and staked in place to make sure the new one doesn't drop out as well. It happens occasionally on the 00+ engines. Not necessarily due to overheating, they just do it. Have it replaced by a machine shop and have the others checked and staked.

Gas light might come on just before you run out... Or it might not. They're kind flaky. I run 300 miles and usually fill about 12 gallons. Leaves me a 4 gallon buffer. 15.9 gallon tank in my 96, AWD, Lifted 5 inches. My 95 Fwd usually runs 350 on 12 gallons.

Those DIN size cup holders only hold a vessel the size of a normal soda can. The only decent solution I've come up with in the past is to sacrifice the center console storage box by installing a couple of large drop-in cup holders. I haven't had the desire to give up my arm rest though...

Denso remanufctured starters are very high quality. I've replaced several of those in the last couple years and I dont hesitate to use them or recommend them. If I can get a Denso, I'll pay more for it. Saving $40-50 isn't worth the hassle of having to swap a starter again. Especially on the Toyota V8s with it down in the valley under the intake manifold. The Bosch starters are good as well but normally they cost quite a bit more. Kind of a toss-up either way, in this case, I think you'll get a good quality part.

P1100 and P1101 are Subaru specific codes. 1100 is for the starter switch circuit 1101 is for the neutral switch. P0500 Speed sensor 131,132,136 O2 sensors All have connectors and wiring on top of the trans. If the trans was jacked up and pinched against the bottom of the firewall tunnel the wiring could be pinched or cut. The TPS code could just be due to misadjusted TPS. Maybe got knocked around when the intake was being installed. Knock sensor is under the manifold, easy to miss when plugging everything in. Make sure it's plugged in, replace it if it's old or the plastic housing is cracked.

TCC solenoid only affects the lock-up clutch in the converter. That's only engaged once the vehicle is moving above a certain speed. Line pressure solenoid it fails it should fail so the trans gets full pressure. Maybe if it physically broke/fell off of the valve body it could dump enough pressure to cause a total non-engagement.

Not likely. Normally if solenoids fail the transmission will stay in 3rd gear forward, and you would still have reverse. Sounds like either dead trans pump, blown out seal somewhere internally, or possibly torque converter failed. Maybe the pickup filter fell off and it can't pull any fluid. There are some ports on the side of the case where you can check line pressure. Or pull one of the cooler hoses off and stick it in a bottle and see how much/how fast fluid gets pumped into it. That would tell you if it's a pump problem. When you move the shifter out of park can you push the car? Would rule out a broken shift cable. Does it roll if it's in park? Broken axle...

Might be a bad ECT sensor. The two wire ECT sensor for the computer. Crank pulley doesn't affect timing but the sheared key could allow the timing sprocket to shift. Probably not the problem though as long as you got the crank bolt tightens back to around 140ft lbs.

Exhaust gasket blown out or the y-pipe cracked maybe. Those heat shields like to rattle around a lot. Tap on those and see if they make a similar noise. Hard to tell what's really making noise if there's nothing attached after the y-pipe.

The Subaru HP stuff is good. Not as good as Extra-S, but you can't get that stuff anymore anyway.

Valves have to be adjusted using the TDC arrows, not timing marks. Arrow should be at 6 o'clock when adjusting clearance on number 4. If you use the belt timing marks, the cam is 45° off when you make the adjustment.

No pressure cooling systems can work fine in cool climates or low altitude areas. At higher altitude the boiling point of the coolant is lower, and you need a pressure cap to increase pressure in the system and prevent boiling. The proper ratio of antifreeze to water also goes a long way.

What do you need info from the vin for?

Should still be able to get them through the dealer. 20325FA000