Fairtax4me

A lot of recycling facilities will take it. But, as said before, call the local govt office and ask. You can also ask the local Fire Dept if they know where you can take it. Closest place to me is about 20 minutes at the county waste transfer station. They collect antifreeze and oil all year round. There are companies that collect antifreeze from shops, but they generally charge for the service, and don't often have local facilities. Some shops will accept used antifreeze from customers, but in limited amounts, and usually only if its 100% free of any oil.

I would think that's from someone wailing on it in the past trying to replace a ball joint. Cast iron can be welded, but its best to preheat it first, then toss a blanket over it to withold the heat and allow it to cool slowly. I'd drive it. Just don't be crazy with it.

Coolant temp sensor is the highest priority sensor for determining fuel mixture when starting. This is the only sensor the ECU can really use for any feedback at all when the engine is cold. The ECU uses ECT readings to set warm-up idle speed, and enrich the fuel mixture to compensate for the colder (denser) air. The engine isn't running, so MAF readings are useless. O2 sensors have to be hot before they start to read. If you have a MAP sensor the ECU may use barometric pressure reading to adjust for altitude, but this is a small adjustment compared to what it does with ECT readings. Most of the time a bad ECT sensor will read -40° on a scanner and will not set a code. If the ECU thinks the engine is 40 below, the fans aren't gonna come on. The way to check it is to let the car sit overnight and use a scanner to compare ECT temp to outside air temp before starting. Should be within about 10 degrees of each other. Once the engine is started the ECT should start to climb slowly. If temp stays the same for a long period, then suddenly jumps up 20-30 degrees or more, you could have a bad sensor, or poor wire connection at the sensor. If you don't have access to a scanner, you can check the sensor resistance with an ohmmeter when cold, and watch for the resistance reading to drop as the engine warms up. Search google and you can find temperature vs resistance charts for a standard ETC sensor. You can also watch sensor voltage with a voltmeter, but its harder to find correct voltage specs.

If you order it from a Subaru dealer site you'll definitely get the right parts. Find an online dealer relatively close to you to save some on shipping. 1stsubaruparts.com has it for $155.96.

I took a closer look at that eBay kit and it actually comes with all of the wiring and the factory switch you need! No need to buy anything else if you get that kit! Good find! I think the relay is in the yellow box. The switch is the black rectangle covered up by the green T. I would expect a kit like that to come with some kind of instructions.

I'm not familiar with the Impreza fog light mounting. Legacy from that era was incredibly easy to install. It looks like the kit includes all of the brackets you should need. For wiring its pretty simple. The factory wiring kits are simple to install, but fairly expensive. If there's a junk yard nearby that lets you pull parts yourself that would be good to get a wire kit from. Cheaper, and you can see how its routed and where all the wires connect. Be sure to get the relay as well.

Well, I give up on the metal "glue". Tried it one more time, it got cold that night, next morning I pulled the tape off and it fell off again. So it was about 60 out the other day, girlfriend was over and said her rear defrost didnt work. Had 12v all the way across the grid. Pulled the back seat and the rear trim. Sure enough the ground side clip had fallen off. So I cleaned it up, got out the soldering iron and used my car as the guinea pig. After about the 5th try and the clip not sticking I was ready to give up, then I started thinking outside the box a bit. I was trying to solder it back to where it fell off, but just above that on the window is a section of braided wire soldered on at the factory. So I stuck some new solder on the braided section in a couple spots, soldered the tab to that, and it held great! I wasn't gonna push my luck with wiggling it around too much, but it held enough to slide the wire clip back on, and the grid works now! I left it on for about 5 minutes and could feel a difference in temperature on the glass. So, learned its actually really easy to solder these back on. Used a 30w iron and it seemed to stay just fine once I stuck it to the braided wire section on the glass.

The concern with the plain greem stuff is not so much with the anti-corrosive properties. It's that over time the additives that prevent corrosion and rust, and maintain freeze protection, will settle out of the coolant. They drop to the bottom of the system and collect and solidify into hard chunky stuff that can then float around and clog the heater core and radiator. It can also wear the impeller of the water pump, kinda like sand blasting.

Is it automatic or manual trans? If auto try starting in Nuetral. If manual push the clutch pedal down hard to the floor.

Yep, the VA inspection won't let that pass. And you can't just put tape over the light because they look for it to come on when they key is turned on. If you were closer I would gladly take a look at it, as its probably something simple like a bad ground connection. It might be worth it to just double check all of the fuses though. I'm not familiar enough with the Beach area anymore to know of any shops that would pass it that way. I know of a few out here in the sticks around Charlottesville, but I hardly think its worth driving 3 hours to get a sticker. Might try to find a little shop down south in Chesapeake or Suffolk somewhere.

Do you have a torque wrench? Or access to one? If yes, just replace the head gaskets. The old 2.2s rarely suffer bottom end damage. That's a 2.5 DOHC problem. About $100 in gaskets and fluids, probably $70-$90 to resurface the heads if they're scored or corroded around the coolant ports. 2.2 heads are REALLY easy to remove, even with the engine in the car. Pull the intake manifold, drop the exhaust manifold, pull the timing covers and pop the belt off, 6 head bolts and the head is off. Don't even have to remove the valve covers, though removing the valve covers does give you an extra 1/2" or so of clearance.

The Subaru long life stuff I've been buying for the past couple years is blue-green color. I've used both Subaru stuff and plain old green. Haven't noticed any ill effects from the plain green, but you HAVE to remember to change it every 2 years.

Vacuum leaks are a typical cause. Pull the codes anyway, could have something new. Post up the code numbers.

Synthetic is a bit overboard IMO. Just make sure you use a fluid that meets Dexron III spec and you should be fine. I use the Walmart Supertech brand because its the same stuff as at the parts store for about 1/3 less price.

The arms can get loose if someone has tried to use the wipers to clear heavy snow from the windsheild. Check the wiper arms for excessive play by bringing them about halfway up the windsheild and turning the key off. Push/pull one around a bit and see if the other moves with it or if it just clunks around. If it clunks, remove the arm (pull off the cap and remove the 14mm nut), clean any loose metal from the notched area on the post. Use a pick or screwdriver to scrape them clean, then scrape out any loose material from the hole in the arm. Put the arm back on and tighten the nut down and it should cut new grooves in the softer material of the arm base.

That could mean either the module wasnt set into check mode (used the wrong pin in the connector?), or there is a wiring problem to the module. Generally if you get a code for "airbag module" it means there is a problem with power to the module. If the module itself goes bad, you don't get any lights or codes.

X2 on clockspring. Especially if the cruise doesn't work (if you have it) and the horn works intermittently. Like Gary said, airbag light on means it has a code, search google and you can find instructions for how to read the codes. There is a black 6 pin connector under the dash with two bare spade terminals wrapped up in the harness next to it. You plug one of the spades into one of the sockets in the connector (the socket differs for each module you want to check). Turn the key On and the airbag light will flash any stored codes. The proper instructions are needed to figure out which socket is for the airbag module.

No, but that one causes problems too. The one I'm talking about is a black cylinder mounted directly on the pressure source solenoid.

Did you replace the seal washer inside the steering reservoir? They can leak there too. They also tend to leak around the case seal. But these steering pumps are really easy to rebuild. Gotta go with Gary on the coolant leak issue, the pump housing could be cracked.

Seems to me that its setting the code when the sensor is at atmospheric pressure because the ECU is expecting to see manifold pressure at that time. The other code (input low) is being set when the MAP is connected straight to manifold vacuum because the ECU is looking for MAP pressure to rise when the PSSSV is commanded closed (or open, whichever way it works). How did you test the solenoid? Did you blow air through it to make sure it seals properly, and is not clogged? Easiest way to test these is to connect the green plugs under the dash to put the ECU in Test Mode. This cycles all of the solenoids and relays when the key is turned On. Make sure the solenoid cycles and blow air through the different ports to make sure the valve seals correctly. Some have a little filter on one port, others have a line to the Evap system to measure fuel tank pressure. Its hard to tell if the filters clog, If yours has the filter try replacing it. Used should be fine.

The basic operation of the cooling system hasn't changed any. Possible the guage is more sensitive in the newer cars. Make sure the coolant level is full. It could have an aftermarket thermostat in it. Might check that since it will cause problems down the road. Drain the coolant into a clean container and you can reuse it.

Silicone is probably from the oil pump. At some point someone resealed it and used too much silicone. You'll want to remove the pump and clean all the silicone off of it and the block. Reseal with Anaerobic sealant. A big enough piece of silicone from the oil pump can clog the feed ports for the camshafts and starve the cam bearings. It wrecks the bearing journals and the camshaft. Then you need a whole new head.

Subaru doesn't monitor the thermostat directly, like mentioned in the linked post above, but opening of the thermostat can be indirectly monitored by looking at changes in coolant temperature. The dealer is right to want to replace the thermostat and the temp sensor, but there could be other causes. Leaves or dirt stuck in the fins of the radiator, or internal clogging of the radiator. The heater core is integral with proper operation of the cooling system. If the heater core is partially clogged it will affect opening and closing of the thermostat in cold weather. Replacing sensors is the last thing I would do, unless there is a code for the sensor, or other problems such as failing to switch to closed loop, or hard starting when the engine is warm.

I've never seen one of these cars have a lead straight from the battery to the alternator. The charge lead always runs to the fuse panel. AC ripple will be filtered out by connecting a battery or capacitor anywhere in the circuit. It's more effective if the battery is mounted close to the amplifier, but it will still act as a condenser no matter where it is.

Update on this. Well, the metal "Glue" didnt hold up. One tab I accidentally knocked off while putting the rear trim back on. No biggie, cleaned it and glued it back. Then carefully put the trim back on. It worked... Twice. Then it stopped. Pulled the trim off, have 12v across the grid. Ground side tab was still "glued" on but no continuity to the grid. Went to unplug it and it just fell off the glass as soon as I touched it. I'm guessing the glue doesn't play well with the cold. I think ill try it one more time (the other side still seems pretty firmly attached), and see how it does. I'd like to wait until its warmer out. Wish I had messed with it last week when it was 70°.