Fairtax4me

I wouldn't think the pulley would bend very easily. But they're easy to remove. Use a 17 or 19mm socket to loosen the nut on the front. You can do this before removing the belt. But if the belts already off put a big screwdriver or prybar through one of the holes on the pulley. Remove the nut then the pulley will pull right off.

You need the Y shaped one right? I've had two of those break. Number 6 in the photo: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_25/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ Get a couple clips (#3) for the release bearing as well. They like to break too. Cheap insurance to replace those.

Manual trans is pretty easy. With the trans in Nuetral, jack up one wheel at a time, spin the wheel. Good AWD the wheel should spin but with a LOT of resistance. If the wheel spins easily the center viscous coupling is worn out. Auto you put the car on jack stands with all 4 wheels off the ground. Put it in drive and let the wheels spin. All 4 should spin. Set the parking brake and all 4 should stop, or the rears should stop and the fronts should spin very slowly. Now put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passenger strut tower. The rear wheels may spin but much slower. Set the parking brake and the rears should stop, fronts should keep spinning freely.

Did you check the trans fluid with the engine running? Did you check the correct dipstick? The short one on the right (passenger side) is front differential gear oil. Longer dipstick on the left (driver side) is ATF. It can be hard to see because its under some hoses.

4 speed automagic? Are you checking the fluid level with the engine running? There's a drain bolt on the pan. Should be on the left side.

It may not be the correct thing to do but I've seen people start new threads when trying to get in touch with someone specific. I can't recall the name of his shop off hand...

Thought I posted that, apparently it didnt make it. TPS should read 0.5v on the signal pin (middle) with the key on and throttle closed. Have to back probe the connector to check voltage, TPS has to be plugged in while adjusting.

Could be the crank sensor. Have you verified the timing hasn't jumped?

99 was a good year. They were selling L models loaded with leather, aluminum wheels, and all kinds of goodies because they were trying to move the last of that body style, and it was the 30th anniversary of Subaru sellng cars in the US.

The 2.2 was only available in the legacy up to 99 I think, and In the Impreza until 01. It may have been available in the L model legacy til 01, but you would have a very hard time finding cold weather package equipped L. If you want the 2.2 look for 95-99 Legacy. A Legacy Outback is much more likely to have the cold weather package but will have the 2.5 engine, and get lower fuel mileage. Neither will get as good fuel mileage as the Honda. Subaru has a very solid AWD system though, especially with the manual transmission. The autos have a few issues with the transfer clutch packs wearing which cause some problems. Search for Torque Bind and there are countless threads here about it. The biggest things to check are that all 4 tires are the same size, brand, and have even tread wear. (2 new tires on front, 2 old tires on rear, is a bad thing) Find out if the timing belt has been replaced, and make sure that all of the timing components and water pump were done at the same time. The major cause of timing belt failure on these is due to failed timig idler pulleys. Timing kits are fairly cheap though $150-200, and take an afternoon to put on if you're mechanically inclined. If you do settle on a car wih the 2.5, find out if the head gaskets were replaced. 96-99 2.5 have serious head gasket issues causing overheating, and eventually rod bearing damage if allowed to continue for too long. 2000 and later 2.5 have only minor external leaks but require diligence in checking the coolant and oil levels on a regular basis.

Can you tell if its motor oil or gear oil? Leaks from the bellhousing are usually from the separator plate on the engine. Very common leak point.

Does it click at all when this happens? A click from under the hood means the starter solenoid is engaging (getting power from the ignition switch) but is not delivering power to the starter motor. Park Nuetral safety switch is on the side of the trans. Next time it won't start put a test light or voltmeter on the small terminal on the starter and turn the key. The light should light, or you should see close to battery voltage, and if so, the problem is with the starter. Probably worn contacts.

Looks like transmission oil that hasn't been changed for a long time. If the binding is only on one wheel the problem is likely confined to something that affects only that wheel. Axle, bearing, brakes, suspension bushings, etc.

Yes, it will be exposed to oil. Some parts stores have emmission hose in bulk much cheaper than buying the boxed stuff. Get 4 or 5 feet and make new breather hoses for the valve covers too.

If you baby it it might last that long. Once it starts slipping it will get worse evey day. The only remedy is replacement.

Put a wrench on the bolt and turn it. The valve springs put a fair amount of pressure on the cam and it can be very difficult to turn by hand.

I've been daydreaming lately of a 4.44 auto swap into my 96. One of these days I want bigger tires and more lift. Even with the 4.11 outback MT the clutch isn't happy getting going up steep inclines. I like the 2800 stall converter idea for off-road.

Odd for sure. Generally electrical problems will cause the engine to stall or at least make some of the lights in the dash to crazy. Have you checked for stored codes? Does the Check engine light work? Can you tell a general area where the "click" comes from? Under the dash? Under the hood? Left or right? I would start by checking the battery cables, and make sure the body ground connection is good.

P0106 is for the MAP sensor, which measures manifold vacuum and barometric pressure. Most of the time you get that code because of a loose or split vacuum hose. I had a P0106 code for 3 years and it never affected engine operation. The MAP sensor is a low priority sensor. The ECU only makes "fine tuning" adjustments based on MAP sensor inputs. And once it sets that code the ECU disregards MAP sensor readings anyway. Check the vacuum hose to the sensor, make sure its attached. It's the small black cube on the passenger strut tower. It has a short hose to a solenoid right next to it, then a long hose that leads to the intake manifold. Double check all of the other vacuum hoses, and check all of the breather and PCV hoses that attach to the intake tube. Make sure they're firmly attached and have no splits or cracks.

It's roughly 5/8". You have to get that one from Subaru. The bend it takes is too much for the straight molded hose at the parts store, it'll just kink in the middle. Or maybe find a 90° elbow to put in the middle.

Check the trans fluid on the dipstick and see of there's any water on it (fluid looks like strawberry milkshake). If there's water change the fluid before starting the engine.

A battery heater would do you some good. Same with a block heater if you don't have one. Battery's don't like cold. Cold sucks the life out of a battery. At 0°F a good battery only has about 3/4 the cranking amperage capacity of a battery at 70°F. Take another 30 degrees off that and you're down to only 2/3 the capacity. And that's with a GOOD battery. If your battery is old, those heating and cooling cycles take their toll. As a battery ages it is less able to handle extreme cold and can actually freeze solid. Once a battery has frozen the lead grids inside are permanently damaged and often short the cells. Even of the battery tests fine when warm that doesn't mean it has enough amps to start an engine when its 30° below. I would definitely put a fresh battery in.

I have a problem with the cruise in my car as well, so I've been checking into all the possibilities since its been too cold, too wet (rain/snow), and exam week at school, and by the time I get home its too dark to actually do anything with it. Obviously you want to check fuses first. The next things to check are the brake switch and the clutch switch (if MT). There is a small plastic button that the plunger on the switch hits when the pedals are up. The plastic buttons break when they get old and the plunger just sticks through a hole. I think the clutch switch has this problem more commonly than the brake switch. If those check out check the switches for continuity. Check the vacuum hose on the cruise servo. Follow it to its vacuum source, either the engine or to a vacuum pump on the side of the passenger strut tower. Check that the servo holds vacuum by trying to suck air through the hose. Checking the cruise switch on the wheel is a bit tricky since you get to play with the airbag. I actually just took one apart and was going to do a writeup for cleaning it. Haven't had the time just yet but probably in a few weeks. There should be a small amount of play in the cruise servo cable. That's nothing to worry about.

How old are plugs and wires?

Does the radio not turn on at all? Or does it turn on but you have no sound? Most radios have short protection for the speaker circuits. If one of the speaker wires shorts it cuts power to all of them to prevent damage to the internal amp. There are some sharp edges in the dash. Are you sure you didn't cut the insulation on any of the other wires?