Fairtax4me

What the hell is that round thing??! That top line is the pressure feed line from the pump and should have nothing between the filter and engine. The bottom line on the rear is the return to the tank. The last line (smallest) is the evap line and is probably plugged off because the evap hoses in the back are all screwed up. There is another cover on the drivers side, pull that cover up and see if that one hose leads to the top of the sender assembly on that side.

It's raining sleet and frozen stuff right now but Ill try to get a measurement of the brackets tomorrow sometime.

The jet pump is a siphon pumpnthatnpulls fuel from the drivers side of the tank over the hump to the passenger side where the pump pickup is. If that line was one of the old pressure lines it shouldn't go anywhere else except to the lines in the floor. I thought the jet pump line was inside the tank but they may have changed that since they changed so much with the emissions system. If that is the jet pump line you'll want to hook it back up.

This is exactly what causes driveability problems and sets codes. You'll get TPS codes and probably IAC codes as well, then the ECU will go into limp mode.

Throttle should be wide open for a compression test so the engine pulls in as much air as it can. Pull all 4 plugs so it can turn easily. Pulling only 1 plug causes the engine to turn slower and lowers compression reading. Disable fuel injectors and ignition so the engine doesn't catch on fire while testing. The dollar bill test does work, but its not 100% conclusive. There could be other causes but it gives you a good idea that there's a mechanical problem. The same conclusions can be drawn from a compression test. If you have low or no compression there's a mechanical problem and the cylinder head will have to be removed to check. Re-check compression and check the injector resistance. Also be sure to check for battery voltage at the injector plug. If the voltage is low there could be a wiring problem on the injector.

That's one of the lines that goes into the tank as part of the evap system. The only danger with leaving it that way is that the tank can pressurize and expand, or it could fail to vent properly as it cools and implode on itself. I don't like Mickey-mousing with fuel lines. Replacing the rusted out steel pressure lines with rubber hoses is fine, but the other lines that go into the tank need to be treated with the same caution. The vapor is what burns, even if you don't see liquid its still a huge fire hazard.

Front passenger side is number 1. 100psi is low, could mean a burned valve. Might check valve lash clearance on that cylinder. Did you check compression on all 4 cylinders? Pull all 4 spark plugs and hold throttle wide open? (Disable ignition by unpugging the coil or the igniter on the firewall, and unplug the injectors.) Do you have a misfire code? Any other codes? Check for battery voltage at the injector plug. Also check resistance of the injectors. All 4 should be within about 5%.

As far as I know a turbo front sway bar will not fit a non-turbo model. It will hit the y-pipes. For the brackets you should also look on Outbacks because the Outback brackets are taller as well.

Check for power at the relay. Make sure the relay clicks when the key is turned On. Check for 12V coming into the relay, and 12v coming out to the pump. (Will only be there for 3-4 seconds when the keynis turned On) If you have 12v on both sides there is a wire problem or loose connector between the relay and pump.

Break out the Vice grips. Although they may not work if the screws are recessed. In that case drill holes on either side of the easy out, then grab it with some needle-nose and try to twist/pull it out. Most impact drivers are 5/16 or 3/8 drive. Sears carries #2 phillips bits that will fit. At least the one here does. Seems odd they didnt include a #2 bit with the driver.

Batteries often "re-charge" themselves when a drain is removed. The voltage level may increase, but the current available will not. Best to remove the battery and charge it to prevent damage. If you disconnect the battery - you need to wait 30 minutes to an hour for the computers to go to sleep before taking an amp draw reading.

Happens all the time. The sensor housing is stainless steel. Stainless and aluminum don't play well together. Coat the new sensor with antiseize or some anti-corrosive grease before installing it.

There is no way to adjust idle speed manually. The ECU will try to correct any changes you make by changing the IAC valve position to set idle speed. If it can't change idle speed it will set codes, and you could cause further idle and running problems. If your oil pressure is too low at idle you should change to the next step higher weight oil. If you run 30 weight, switch to a 40 weight.

There's not a whole lot of room around the u joint on the shift rod. Take a close look at that and make sure the bolts you put in it are not hitting the stay rod or getting hung on the centering spring. Also check for good clearance between the joint and the dust shield around the driveshaft.

I would want a second opinion. The old 2.2 head gaskets don't leak like that. More than likely the leak is coming from the crossover pipe on top of the block, or even just a loose or old upper radiator hose. There are some plugs on the block that go into the coolant passages. One of those could be loose and leaking or have a bad o-ring.

96 outputs fuel system status, engine temp, engine speed, vehicle speed, o2 sensor voltages, fuel trims, MAF value, MAP value, load calculation... A few other things too, I can't remember them all off-hand. You could have a firmware issue. (Firmware is the programming in the ELM327) but I would email torque tech support and see if they have an answer. It could be something they know about and are trying to fix.

2 things. 1: X2 to what Dave said. The dealer isn't torquing the lug nuts properly. Someone is just zipping them on with an impact wrench which is an absolute no-no! I'd raise some more stink. 2: Go Buy a torque wrench and a 19mm deep socket, 6 point, 1/2" drive. Torque the lug nuts to the proper torque yourself after they have serviced it. Lug nut torque on aluminum wheels needs to be rechecked after driving about 50 miles. Torque them yourself before leaving the dealership, then recheck them the next day.

Need to verify fuel pressure under load. Should have 35 at idle and should go up to 43-45 under load. You can try a snap throttle test but you get the most conclusive result from actually driving down the road. If fuel pressure stays the same or drops lower under load the pump is bad or filter is plugged. Test before and after the filter. Not sure how big of a difference the knock sensor makes on the older cars but they're easy to inspect and only about $20 to replace. (eBay) Pull the knock sensor and check it for corrosion and check the outer housing for cracks. If the housing is cracked replace it.

Some movement of the engine and trans is normal, but it shouldn't cause it to pop out of gear. I'm thinking something with the shift linkage isn't quite right. The other cause for popping out of gear is a worn mainshaft ball bearing. Did you check the input shaft for play when you had the engine and trans apart?

Turbo front bar is straight across the entire center section. The ends curl up and outward. Whiteline bar in this link but its the same design as stock. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whiteline-Front-Sway-Bar-24mm-Subaru-WRX-2002-2007-STI-2007&source=GoogleBase I have a set of Forester rear mount brackets on my legacy (96 L) now and the brackets are about an inch taller than the stock brackets that were on the car. I don't remember exactly which year forester they came from, I wanna say 99 or 00. I had to use them because of my lift, and they were lowered enough that I could actually bolt the rear bar on. With the stock brackets it was nowhere even close. I just used the bushing clamps that came with the forester brackets and a set of 19mm bushings for an Outback.

Not sure exactly. I would have to guess most manufacturers started doing that around 2000.

Idle should be about 700 and the tachometer is misleading. The first tick above 0 is 500 rpm. These generally don't run at all below that. If the idle is low, check for vacuum leaks and clean the IACV and throttle body. That usually makes a big difference.

04 should be similar to the legacy bar with the hoop over the exhaust pipe. They ran the 20mm bar up til about 05, then switched to a 19mm bar til 07 IIRC. Then they changed the rear suspension and the rear bar changed.

Yes. You can't just slap a new TPS on and expect it to work. It has to be adjusted so the ECU gets the correct voltage signal at closed throttle. You could also have a reference voltage problem from the ECU. Post up the actual codes (p0XXX) and we can give more specific advice.

The red coloring is only a dye the help identify the fluid to quickly differentiate between ATF, engine oil, or coolant. The color has no effect on the lubricative qualities. The 96 could have started life with clear fluid but was refilled with red fluid at one of the regular service changes. Or the 99 maybe started with red fluid and has been changed to clear.