Fairtax4me

Like cougar said, take it to the dealer and have them diagnose it. The car is still under warranty, isn't it? If not you may have an antenna grounding problem, or poor antenna connection to the stereo, or damaged antenna wire between the antenna and radio.

Fwd counter shaft and pinion shaft dont have the splines on the end that engage the center diff. No easy way to make that work. AWD trans swap into a FWD car isn't an easy swap either. Whole rear suspension is different. Fuel tank is different, exhaust is different. Plus if it has any faint amount of rust the bolts that hold the rear crossmember are probably seized and will break.

Thanks for updating us! Glad to hear that its fixed!

Proclip has a few good options. Also check http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/30577-iphone-mount.html for other ideas

No need to do an alignment after replacing rear struts. Only adjustment on the rear is toe and you don't mess with that when replacing struts. Save the money spent on an alignment and use it to fix the exhaust. I generally replace struts in pairs, but the ones I've done both are bad. I don't see any real reason to replace more than one unless you notice the car handling strange with the one new one.

My 96 has done this since I bought it... about 4 years now. I've been waiting for the alternator to bite the dust the whole time. Hasn't done it yet. Even after two bad batterys, and running a 400w sub amp and now a 450w 4 channel amp. All my connections are clean and grounds are good. Good news is if your current alternator takes the dirt nap a reman from Subaru is $75.

There a black plastic cover on the pump housing that pops off. Under the cover is a handful lf fuses and a relay or two. Just yank the relays out and the motor will quit. Somewhat common problem on the 95. One of the relays goes bad and sticks on so the motor runs constantly.

If the engine is out, resealing the separator plate is 15 minutes of work to prevent spending 8-12 hours pulling the engine again in 50k miles to fix the leak that started right after you put the engine back in last time. My law: "If it ain't broke, it will be."

Which seals are leaking? Exterior or interior? O rings on the feed and return lines like to leak and are cheap and easy to replace.

Jack the car up and see if one wheel is harder to spin than the others. Probably alignment problem. Tires could be worn unevenly. Switch front tires left to right and right to left and see if it pulls to the left.

They both fit and line up exactly the same. It's a common swap item when swapping engines between years around that time. Yes both SOHC. Do not use TDC to set timing, the cams won't sit still and you risk valve damage. Use the dashes on the edge of the cam sprockets. Use the notch on the reluctor tooth on the back of the crank sprocket. Proper timing marks set the crank so pistons are all at half stroke. The key way on the crank will be at 6 o'clock. Passenger side cam will be loose and will turn about 15-20 degrees either way with no resistance. Drivers cam will be sitting in loaded position (valve springs compressed) with the rockers on the very apex of one set of cam lobes. It will stay still if its positioned properly. If the cam is moved more then a few degrees either way it will snap out of place. Nothing to worry about, just turn it back to the proper point. I use a breaker bar and socket to turn it slowly to avoid slipping past the proper point and having it snap the other way. This thread: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/52208-quick-timing-camshaft-sprocket-question.html Has a pic of the proper timig marks courtesy of Canubaru. (pretty sure canubaru is Johnceggelston on here)

Sorry to hear about that! Hope they catch the bastard! 01 Block is the same and will bolt in just fine. Use the 99 intake manifold. Check the crank and camshaft timing sprockets. Around the 01 year range they switched to a different style of sprockets with more teeth on the reluctor (the very outer ring of teeth on the back of the sprocket). Old style has 6 big chunky teeth, new style has something like 25 little teeth and two wide solid sections on opposite sides. Make sure the sprockets match on both engines. If the 01 engine has the new style, and the 99 has the old style, you'll need to use the 99 sprockets (both crank and cam) so the computer can determine crank and camshaft position properly.

Right, that can be the tricky part. I found out the hard way as well after trying two different harnesses on my 95 legacy. Don't know how but I lost the original while I was replacing the transmission some time ago. Got two from a junkyard (on separate occasions) and neither fit, and they were both different. Had to find a 95 to get the right harness.

There were several variations of rear o2 sensor connectors during that time. To make it work you have to match the o2 sensor and rear harness to the year that main harness came from. A 95 harness was different from a 96, and 96 is likely to be different from 97. And a Legacy harness was different from an Impreza.

There are a few people in the Denver area. ShawnW (USMB head moderator and owner) has a shop in Denver. If that's too far away he may know of a shop a bit closer. Pretty sure there are one or two other good shops in/around Denver as well.

Is the AC or front defrost on? Either of these settings will engage the AC compressor when the fan is on. Turn the fan on the vent or floor setting and turn the AC off and on. Does the squeal happen only with the AC on? If so, the AC belt is loose and probably needs to be replaced.

If the light is blinking there are codes stored in the TCU. Somewhere here there's a thread that tells how to read the codes.

Sensor sends a signal to the cluster. Cluster converts that signal and sends a different signal to the ECU. The clusters around 99 have problems with a ground trace on the circuit board. It makes the signal to the ECU erratic or none at all. Search for "99 speedometer fix" or something like that. There was a thread here just a few weeks ago about this with a link to a thread detailing the repair, with pics.

Those screws are very tight and often rusty or corroded. Buy or rent an impact screwdriver to crack them loose. They're usually about $20 at auto parts stores.

The o rings missing from the rock auto kit can be bought separately but it kinda cuts into the savings. There is an o-ring between the reservoir and pump, and a washer inside the reservoir that need to be replaced so the reservoir doesn't leak. The reservoir o-ring is often the cause of steering pump leaks, but sometimes the main case seal leaks as well. You might try cleaning it well first and see if the leak is coming from above the case. Might save you some time and money if just the reservior o-ring is leaking. Torque bind has several causes. The two primary causes are a bad duty solenoid, and sticking clutch plates due to old fluid or overheating because of unequal tire sizes and tread wear. If you don't have a blinking AT Temp light, the duty c solenoid is probably OK. Put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passenger strut tower. The FWD light on the dash should turn on, indicating that the AWD has been disabled. With the fuse in place the TCU commands the duty C to block line pressure to the transfer clutch pack so it should be completely unlocked, and any torque bind should go away. If torque bind is gone the duty c is operating properly and the binding problem is due to sticking clutch plates. The first thin to try in this case is new fluid, since it can often clean up the plates and allow them to slip properly again. If binding does not go away the duty c may not be working, or the transfer drum may be grooved and is not allowing the clutch plates to release. If the transfer drum is grooved it can often be filed smooth and be returned to operation. If the binding goes on for a long period of time it can cause tire wear, but you're talking a minimal amount. Tire wear is typically improper inflation or an alignment issue.

I would think you have a camber or toe problem on the rear. Compare tread depth across the tires and you'll have one (or maybe both) with lower tread on one side. If the tire tread is higher on one side it will cause the tire to pull the opposite direction.

You have to disconnect the hoses to get the power steering pump out of the car. But it's easy. Takes all of 5 minutes to get the pump out. Use a turkey baster to drain the reservoir first. Use a 17mm socket to loosen the lock nut on the pulley. Remove the belt. Loosen the hose clamp on the side of the pump, and loosen but dont unthread the large flare nut. Remove two 10mm bolts holding the line brackets to the intake manifold. Remove the 3 12mm bolts that secure the pump to the bracket. Once the pump is loose swing it and the lines off to the side over a small catch pan, then unthread the flare nut, and pull the hose off the side. Part number for the rebuild kit: 34419AA150 lists for about $40 at a dealer but you can get it for $27 through most of the online dealers. Rockauto has rebuild kits as well, but they don't include 2 of the o-rings you need for the reservoir. Torque bind is often cured with fresh trans fluid. Drain and refill 3 times with short drives in between. You should end up using about a case of fluid.

Nothing to do with compression, if the engine isn't turning there's no compression anyway. Two reasons: 1 like Ivan said, top of the stroke means the valves will be fully closed. At bottom of the stroke either intake or exhaust valve could be slightly open and let the air out. 2 top of the bore sees the most wear. If you're doing a leak down because of a low compression reading you may get minimal leak reading if the piston is at half stroke. But at the top of the bore leak reading may be out of spec because that's where the most cylinder wall wear occurs. To add to Ivans post, make sure you take the schrader valve core out of the end of the compression hose, otherwise no air goes into the cylinder. Very definitive test method for bad head gaskets.

Fluid and filter change and transX seems to have cured this one, at least for now. She says it has been going into drive right away in the mornings, and hasn't shifted erratically or slipped/ slopped between gears. Now it needs struts and an alignment, and steering rack boots.

The mainshaft ball bearing has to be pressed off and the new one pressed on. It can be removed with a very large puller and the new bearing hammered on using the inner race of the old bearing, but its much easier with a press. The lock nut on the end of the shaft is torqued to about 90ft lbs. loosen and remove the lock nut, pull the 5th gear synchro set being careful not to lose the lock tabs, pull the 5th drive gear and the needle bearing off the shaft. The 5th needle bearing inner race will be pulled off with the ball bearing. Once the ball bearing is off pry the ball retainers out and roll the balls all to the bottom. Tap the bearing on the ground or bench and the inner race should pop loose. If not slide it over a pipe or prybar in a vice and knock the top of the outer race with a hammer once or twice. Clean up the inner race and use it as the "special tool" to install the new bearing and the 5th gear needle bearing inner race. Be sure to pay attention to the snap-ring on the outer race of the ball bearing. If you install the new bearing with the snap-ring on the wrong side the bearing will not fit in the case. Put some grease on the mainshaft and press or hammer the new bearing on, then slide the 5th needle bearing race on and hammer or press that on. Be sure the race, needle bearing, and gear all go back on the same way they came off. Once that's all on install the 5th synchro and hub and tighten the locknut to 90ftlbs.