Fairtax4me

Couple 10mm bolts near the top which will probably break. A small metal tab at the bottom that you bend down slightly to loosen the bottom of the cover so you can slide it off. It may help to take the wheel off, though its not 100% necessary.

Neutral position sensor only applies to manual trans vehicles. The switch tells the ECU when the trans is in Nuetral. This changes how the ECU sets the idle speed. If the ECU thinks the trans is in Nuetral and you let off the throttle, the ECU tries to set the engine speed back to idle. But If the trans is actually in gear the ECU can't set idle speed and it sets a code. The switch is the rear-most on the transmission case. Unplug and unthread it from the case, push the button in and see if it pops right back out. If its slow to return or if it feels like there is any binding or roughness to the switch replace it. If yours is automatic the park/Nuetral range switch functions in similar manner, but is usually not a soirce of this problem without other codes or other issues being present. What was the source for the new IAC? Used? Subaru? Aftermarket? Another thought is the throttle bore could be heavily carboned and could be holding the throttle open slightly.

Have you replaced the left headlamp bulb? Most of the time a problem with the headlamps is due to a loose terminal in the connector. There are no grounds near the headlamps on these. The lamps are grounded through the hi/lo dimmer switch in the dash.

Nope. I thought that might be an issue as well so I checked it and adjustment was fine. She described one issue in a bit more detail when I went to pick it up Saturday morning. There's a spot going down a slight hill not far from her house where she has to slow down to 15-20mph (25 zone) for a curve then accelerate up the hill on the other side. She says when she starts to accelerate the engine speed will go up but the car doesnt, then will "kick" and it will start going up the hill. I take this to mean that its between gears and isn't downshifting to second right away. Of course this being a 4eat, it could even be trying to go into 1st. This is on the way to her sitters house so she usually only takes this route in the early morning, and being only 1/4 mile from her house the car is nowhere near warm when she's going past this spot. We couldn't duplicate it driving by there saturday when I picked it up because the car was already warm. She had some trouble with the transmission leaking a few years ago when she bought it. It was first diagnosed as an oil leak. When it got low on fluid and started slipping she took it to a shop where they resealed the trans pan and replaced the spin-on filter with an aftermarket. They left the filter loose so it leaked more, then they finally almost got it tight enough to stop, but it was leaking a bit when I checked it.

Year? Model? Mileage? Have you checked to make sure all of the lights turn off in the car? Glove box, trunk light, dome light?

I have a brand new right side from Subaru. Havent needed it yet, the left side has gone bad 3 times, but ive replaced it with used every time. Kinda tired of replacing it now. It's not that its a difficult part to replace, it just takes a while because the bolts are a mile long and they're torqued to 100+ ft lbs. The new one has a "rough" appearance as well. Metal parts don't exactly get pampered during the manufacturing process, so some nicks and gouges are expected, especially with aluminum. The ones that I've replaced always have gouges around the bolt holes, so that could be an indicator if the housings are used and just have new bushings pressed in. Would be nice to find just a new bushing. Surely it would be cheaper than buying the whole thing.

Are they worth the money Gary? I've been contemplating if its worth the risk of buying scheissty parts to save $40 over the dealer price.

Probably the input shaft seal. Those tend to go bad if the input shaft bearings are going bad and have play. It lets the end of the input shaft "walk around" a bit and it wears out the seal. When driving the ring gear in the front differential throws oil directly onto the back side of this seal, so they tend to leak quite a bit if you do a lot of highway driving. Only way to replace it is to split the case. There's a thread about it called "Easy front seal replacement" or something to that effect.

No. IIRC that engine doesn't have a MAF sensor, so the ECU doesn't have a way to measure airflow going into the engine. P0519 is an electrical fault. Usually its due to a failing Idle Air control Valve. But can also be caused by a sticky Nuetral position sensor (MT only) or a faulty Throttle position sensor sending erratic readings and "fooling" the ECU into thinking there is a problem.

My experience with tools similar to that is they are way too big for these tiny Subaru valves. That's the biggest problem with the various spring compressors I've used as well. The magnetic "finger" type removers work well if the spring is already compressed. Getting them back in is another story. If you have a bench to mount the head on the pivot type spring compressors work well if you get a small enough adapter to fit on these valves. Otherwise, the clamp around style spring compressors seem to work best for these.

You can put the 96 long block in as-is. Put your 93 intake manifold and wire harness on it.

New filter (Subaru) and 12qts of fresh dex3 ATF plus a quart of TransX on the last fill. Old fluid was in good shape. Filter was some aftermarket turd though. Hopefully this fixes the leak. Can't say it made any difference with the delay or the other problem. Have to wait until its cold tomorrow morning to find out. Question about TransX. Last time I bought it I swear it was in a metal caa and it was only a pint. Now thy have quart size plastic bottles (like an oil bottle) and a pint sized plastic bottle of a "high mileage" formulation? I got the quart size (blue lable) since it looked more like what I have bought before. I'm hoping that was the correct one.

2.2s hardly ever have head gasket issues. If youre burning oil its possible the rings are damaged in #4. Pull the all spark plugs and see what they all look like. If the one in 4 comes out black and cruddy wet looking, there's a problem in that cylinder. Either rings or piston damage. They should all look kinda tan brown, or may have a white powdery appearance. If they all look like this you could have a valve problem on number 4. To check for a burned exhaust valve you can use a vacuum guage if you have one, or use the paper trick. Hold a piece of paper or a dollar bill about 1" from the end of the tail pipe while the engine is running. If the paper gets sucked toward the tail pipe there's a good chance you have a burned valve.

99 had an issue with a screw on the back of the speedometer getting loose and interrupting the ground. If you have a multimeter you can check the signal wires from the speed sensor for AC voltage while the car is rolling to see if the sensor is making a signal.

20201aa031 is the Subaru part number. I'm sure they just stole a picture of a real Subaru part from some other web site and posted it as their stock photo.

Look up Free- SSM. It's an open source software that works like Subaru Select Monitor. Need a laptop and a certain plug to hook up to the Yellow SSM1 plug in the car. Plenty of info on the interwebz about it. I think there are a few other programs that are similar as well, just can't remember any names off-hand.

The price is great, the description is even better!! http://www.amazon.com/20201Aa041-Bushing-Control-Subaru-Febest/dp/B00DMA49OI Marketing at its finest!

They may have flipped the rear control arm bushing upside down when swapping it to the new arm. (If they swapped it) This would pull the back end of the arm in about 1/4". Might be just enough to cause rubbing. Poke your head under and compare the bushings on each side.

Lets to back to square one then. Are you sure you used the right timing marks? Dashes on the cams, and the dot/dash on the back of the crank sprocket.

Evap system has nothing to do with the O2 sensors so leave those alone. Most of the time this is a bad gas cap, or a pinhole leak on the filler neck due to rust. But with a car so new I wouldn't think rust is an issue. Still worth it to have a look behind the plastic cover on the filler neck in the wheel well. Check the hoses that lead to the charcoal canister, for cracks or splits, or mouse or squirrel teeth marks. Try to find the evap hoses under the hood that to to the purge solenoid and the intake manifold (should be on the emissions/vacuum hose routing label on the bottom of the hood) and check them for cracks and splits as well.

Ignition timing is irrelevant since you can't set it. Incorrect Cam timing is a bajillion times more likely to be a problem than ignition timing on a modern car.

All idlers, tensioner, water pump, and front cam and crank oil seals. Replace them. Also recommend replacing the o ring behind the oil pump and resealing the pump to block mating surface. Next question would be, are your head gaskets seeping? Now would be the best time to address that as well.

How many miles? How old are the plugs? What kind are they? Have you checked compression? Valve lash? Timing?

Double post.

Knock sensor or front O2 sensor would be my first guess. Could also be the ECT sensor.