Fairtax4me

Right, but they had an option for 15" wheels. If an L has 15" optional wheels it will have 195/60/15 tires. No new wheels needed. Mount the tires on the 15" outback wheels and you can put those on either the L or the Outback.

Engine oil pressure light is red and shaped kinda like an old oil can. Should come on with the key ON engine off. If not make sure the sender under the alternator is actually plugged in. If its plugged in unplug it and ground the wire terminal to the block. If the light doesn't come on the bulb could be bad.

If you don't reseal them they will start leaking not long down the road. Separator is easy, if its metal remove it, clean the old sealer off, and reseal with Ultra grey RTV. O-ring is generally a dealer part, but you can probably match up the old one at a parts store. They usually dry up and split when you remove them.

I've read that a 205/60/15 will clear the spring perches on a Legacy L or GT, but it may depend on tread design. A 195/60/15 is the stock size for an L or GT equipped with 15" wheels. That size is quite a bit smaller than the stock outback tire, so running that size on the outback will cause the speedometer to read fast by about 5-7 mph at 60.

On Non-ABS models the hill holder may only work the front left wheel. On ABS models there are only two lines out of the MC, one goes through the hill holder valve before going to the ABS pump, so that whole half of the system (front left and rear right) is affected by the hill holder. The other line goes straight to the ABS pump. Possible the hill holder lever is sticking, or the return spring is stretched or broken and is not returning the valve to the "open" position.

I'm not sure what those are for. The oil coolers are a bolt on unit that goes between the filter and the block. There are two ports on top of the block that are good for pressure gauges. One is where the factory pressure switch is under the alternator. Another in roughly the same spot at the back on the other half of the block.

Hill holder is possible, and that's normally a very easy adjustment. The cable attaches to the clutch release lever below the clutch cable. First thing you want to do is make sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly. There should be about 1/4" of free play at the the lever. Now for the hill holder, loosen the hill holder cable all the way. Then pull the release lever forward so it pulls against the clutch cable. Tighten the hill holder cable adjustment nut until it just starts to pull the cable. The easy way is to watch the lever on the hill holder and when it just starts to pull against the spring its adjusted properly.

There is no sealer between the backing plate and housing because the sealer causes there to be greater side clearance around the rotor. This could actually lead to lower oil pressure. Also the clearance between the backing plate and rotor is close enough that anaerobic sealer will set between them. Probably not worth taking it all apart again now, but for future reference, keep that in mind. Best way to prime the oil galleries after resealing the pump is to pull all of the spark plugs so the engine can turn over freely. Unplug the injectors and the igniter. (No fuel or spark to make fires under the hood while cranking with the plugs out) Takes about half as long to build pressure that way, and no load on the rod bearings.

Easy way is to remove the flywheel, drive it out with a socket from the back side. While the flywheel is off reseal the separator plate. (Replace it if its plastic) And replace the $3 o ring for the wrist pin access cover (diamond shaped cover) opposite the separator plate. Had to get an autozone clutch for mine a while back and the TOB went bad in 6 months. Took it back for warranty, new TOB made noise from the first day. Never did go away. Clutches seemed fine otherwise. Can't speak to longevity though since neither was in the car more than about 6-8 months. If you have time, order an Exedy kit online.

I've seen ACL Race bearings recommended here several times in the past.

Unless its really hot all year round, 5w-30 is the recommended oil. No reason to run anything else.

If you're using full synthetic there really isn't anything that will clean better than that. You might try Marvels, but the effects will likely only be temporary. My 96 lets me know its almost time to change the oil by doing exactly this. It starts clicking about 2500 miles in. I change the oil soon after (Valvoline maxlife and purolator or hastings filter) and have another 2500 noise free miles. Started doing that around 180k, still turning strong now at 227k.

What kind of oil filter are you using? Oil filter quality can cause lifter noise at startup. If you have used several different filters and the noise is constant through all of them it could be a problem with the lifter, or the oil passage in the rocker shaft or rocker arm could be partially clogged. Another thing to check is the bolts that hold the rocker shaft assembly to the head. Make sure they're tight.

Pics and walk through here: http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx

The blinking light has nothing to do with the O2 sensor. ECU senses misfires by reading changes in crankshaft speed. Every time there is a misfire there is a change in crankshaft speed because the lack of power from that cylinder causes the crank to slow down slightly on the next cylinders compression stroke. The ECU counts each percieved misfire (it doesn't always pick them up) And keeps track of how often the misfire occurs, then compares that against engine revolutions. When a misfire occurs a certain number of times, something like 10 times in 1,000 revolutions, (i dont recall the exact number) the ECU sets a code and turns on the CEL. But if that misfire occurs 40 times in 200 (two hundred) revolutions the ECU sets a code and blinks the CEL to let you know there is a major problem which can quickly turn your cats to glowing red orbs. With a burned valve there is a loss of compression in the cylinder at low engine speed. The engine doesn't spin fast enough for the compression to build to an adequate level in order for there to be combustion. Also add to that, at idle the throttle plate is closed so there is less air available to the engine. When less air is available there is lower compression. These two factors joined together will cause a misfire at idle speed. When the throttle is opened you get more air, and the engine speed increases, which means there is less time for compression to escape through the burned valve. Now there is enough compression for combustion, though it will not be ideal, the crankshaft speed will not be effected as much as it would be with the misfire. So at idle, the ECU sees more misfires happening because of the lower compression, and the misfire occurs often enough to trigger the blinking CEL. When engine speed is raised the misfires do not occur as often, the CEL stops blinking, but remains on partly because of the misfire count, but also because when a misfire occurs the CEL remains on until a certain number of engine revolutions has occurred withOUT a misfire.

Low miles EJ22 I wouldn't worry about it too much. These engines are kinda knocky anyway. Could still be a sticky lifter just not bad enough to tap. But I would still pull the oil pump to check it. Once the backing plate gets loose you go from ever so slightly lower than normal oil pressure to practically no oil pressure. The light goes out at something like 3-5 psi. So if the light comes on while you're driving, that means oil pressure is less than that 3-5 psi threshold. Maybe not such a big deal at idle, but going down the interstate at 3,000 rpm, things get chewed up pretty quick. (Should be at least 30 psi at 3,000)

You can puff up all you want but that's what it did, multiple times. 96, 2.2, AWD, MT.

No p0 codes on a 93, its Obd1. And no misfire codes. Just sensor codes and some various trans codes. Pulling spark plugs doesn't rule out fuel injectors, or compression as the cause of a misfire.

Front suspension or Rear suspension? Front crontrol arm rear bushing bolts (the ones that go up into the frame) are torqued to 130 ft lbs. Usually need a breaker bar and a cheater pipe for those. The really long bolt that holds the latteral arms at the bottom of the rear knuckle is always rusted to the bushings. Lots of PB required, and put the nut back on the end and wail on it with a hammer. Thread the nut on until the top is even with the end of the bolt. That still may not work, in which case, you have to cut it.

My 96 used to get 33mpg consistently. Ive done 435 on a tank and filled up at 13.5 gallons. Mind you, it's a manual, and that was with fairly conservative driving. Has struggled to get over 29 recently, at 225k miles. To the OP, you should be getting in the 20-25 mpg range with the automatic AWD. But make sure to calculate fuel mileage based on gallons refilled at the pump, not by what the guage says. The fuel gauges in these are notoriously inaccurate. Unless you have a cloud of black exhaust following you around I find it very hard to believe you're getting fewer MPG than my buddies 3/4 ton Chevy truck. (He gets 12 mpg downhill with a strong tailwind) CEL on, you need to check the codes and see what it thinks is wrong. More then likely you need an engine coolant temp sensor. And you may also have a bad O2 sensor.

Oil pump is behind the crank sprocket. 6 or 7 bolts and it pops right off. Get a new o-ring frommthe dealer and reseal with anaerobic sealant. Definitely remove the pump and check the screws for the backing plate. Had 3 loose on my 95. Only reason I took the pump off was because the front crank seal was leaking because someone had glued it in place crooked. Swapped on a spare pump rather than bothering with the old one. If the backing screws are loose lok-tite or put sealer on them and tighten with an impact screwdriver. Crank timing mark is the small notch on the reluctor tooth. Line it up with the notch in the housing for the crank position sensor. The mark is probably covered in grease and hard to see. Look for the dashes that are stamped into the cam sprockets. Don't use arrows or you'll never get it timed right. The left side (drivers) may look a half tooth off, that's fine as long as its half tooth towards the drivers side.

You need to stop looking for a fight, and be grateful they re-aligned your car FOR FREE.

98 to 07 Forester IIRC. The one that mounts to the frame. The forester bracket is taller than the legacy bracket, but it bolts in place exactly the same way. It brings the bar down about an inch to help get it under that weird hump under the spare tire well. You may still have to massage it a bit with a mini sledge, but the brackets help alot. STI bar I don't remember exact year but somewhere around the mid 2000s up to about 2009 they used a 20mm rear bar.

Cars101.com has all of the option lists for every Subaru since the early 90s. Look in the archive section (a little way down the list on the left side of the page). If it has this badge on it : http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Pilot-Automotive-Limited-edition-Stick-On-emblem/_/N-25wo?id=873375 Chances are high that its not an actual limited edition.

The rear away bars are definitely undersized on these, but it helps keep the back end from doing the steering by letting the rear tires make constant even contact with the road. The front inside tire lifts, and makes the car under steer rather than spin out. Outback bars front and rear make a big improvement. Get a set of Forester sway bar brackets, and a 20mm rear bar from an STI to stiffen the back up a bit more.