Fairtax4me

Do you have a voltimeter to check for power at the light sockets? Do the brake lights work? Could be a bad ground for the rear lights if no lights work.

First check brake fluid level. Low brake fluid triggers the brake warning light as well.

Get out the ohmmeter. Two of the wires will show continuity to each other. Those are for the heater circuit. Doesn't matter which way they to back, those wires go in pins 1&2. The 3rd wire may show continuity to ground, but it may not. That's the signal wire, and goes in pin 3. If you're holding the connector with the lock tab on top, 1&2 are on top, 3 is the bottom pin.

That description sounds like the fuel pump is bad. Checking pressure may only work when the pump is hot, since that's when the problem happens. Checking pressure with a cold pump may not show there is a problem, but its worth a try. Should have about 35 psi at idle. Pull the vacuum line off the FPR and it should jump up to about 43-45.

Yes, basically, putting the fuse in disengages the AWD clutch pack, which limits the transmission to only FWD. The way the trans is designed the front wheels are driven 100% of the time. So technically its always in FWD, but the rear wheels get a small amount of power under normal conditions, and increased amounts of power when throttle position or wheel slip demands more power to the rear wheels. Fuse rating doesn't matter as its just a signal circuit from and back to the TCM. You can rig a switch to flip back and forth on the fly. No real gains in MPG since all of the weight of the AWD components is still there and they all still spin when the car moves. Some people think running in FWD mode all the time will wear out the Duty C solenoid (line pressure solenoid for the transfer clutch pack) because the TCM commands it to 100% duty cycle when the fuse is in place But plenty of people have driven for years with the FWD fuse in, and their Duty C solenoids still work. Others have had different experiences. Either way the duty c solenoid is a fairly common failure, which makes it hard to say if putting the fuse in really does make it fail any sooner.

It is full time, as the rear drive is never fully disengaged under normal conditions, but when needed the TCM will clamp down the transfer clutch pack and give varying amounts of power to the rear wheels. It can go from about 10% slip, to full lock depending on how much speed difference there is between the front and rear wheels. The FWD fuse is there to fully disengage the transfer clutches for times when you need to use the spare wheel. This is used to prevent damage to the transfer clutches because of the different diameter of the temporary spare.

If youre gonna scrap it, just keep a close eye on coolant level over the winter and just be easy on it. Should last that long no problem.

No way to tell without popping them out and checking each one. I know the wiring for the fronts ones is fairly easy to get to to look at. Rears are a bit more challenging. But I'm thinking you can just unscrew the switches from the outside and pull them out. Hatch switch is a big possibility, or more-so the wiring for the switch.

It would be really helpful to have the exact code. Do you have any other codes besides the fuel trim code? Most of the time a fuel trim code will be due to a vacuum leak. And there are plenty of places on an EGR engine where a vacuum leak can occur. Check carefully for any cracks splits or loose fit. Throttle body cleaner is useful for finding leaks. Just spray it on the hoses and around the manifold and throttle body gaskets. If any of the hoses are hard its a good idea to replace them. Also be sure all of the breather hoses and PCV hoses that attach to the intake tube are in good shape and attached where they should be.

No codes? Wiggle the harness for the MAF sensor and see if you can make it stall. My 96 had a bad solder joint in the MAF sensor that would make the engine stall randomly. If the ECU loses MAF signal while running the engine just quits. Would restart every time but it might be fine for only 30 seconds or it might be fine for 45 minutes.

Original spare size will be listed on the tire inflation and loading sticker in the drivers door jamb.

Ill add a third option. Exedy 15010 with Exedy FWSBL01 flywheel for $179.99. Free shipping. eBay. Flywheel is for 90-98 EJ22.

There should be no steering fluid in the boots. Only air, and the rack has built in passages to transfer air from one side to the other. No need for any "return" ports. Hard to tell exactly what was going on in the previous pics, what exactly was rubbing?

Usually disconnecting the battery for about 10 minutes will clear any codes. When you reconnect, start the engine and let it figure or for itself how to idle. Do not try to maintain high idle speed by keeping your foot on the throttle. If it stalls, simply restart and let it figure itself out. Let it idle until the fans cycle the go for a drive.

95 and 96 had the one piece headlight housing with the signal housing built in. Some 97s had them as well, but anywhere you look for a 97 headlight housing they will give you listings for nothing but the two piece style. Search for 95 or 96 Legacy (trim level doesn't matter) and you will get listings for the one piece. Junkyards are good for low prices, but you may need to clean the lens because they all fade and yellow with age.

If you can get a gap between the engine and trans cram a prybar in there and work your way down each side a little at a time. The alignment pins like to stick and can be a pain to get them separated. But work each side a little, one at a time, (pry one side a little, then the other side, repeat) and work down towards the center of the bellhousing on each side. The pins are at 3 and 9 o'clock.

Lots of people put the early 2.2 heads on 2.5 blocks. It makes a higher compression engine with good bottom end torque because of the small valves and ports. Cams and rockers changed in 95. From 90-94 they were tappet style. 95 they switched to roller rockers. Slightly different profile, and the old tappet style cams had wider lobes with oil holes in the faces to oil the tappets on the rockers. 95 they changed the cams to match the roller rockers. 97 switched from hydraulic lash adjusters to solid adjusters. But from 90 to 96 the HLAs are the same in both 1.8 and 2.2 engine.

I should have asked before, are you pulling the engine or the trans? If you're pulling the engine it doesn't matter, just let the trans rest on the cross member. Put a floor jack under it to lift/lower it into position to line it up. If you're pulling the trans, ratchet strap as described above. It should be good for as long as you need. You don't need to tip the engine much, its mostly to keep the engine from rocking forward too far and stressing the hoses.

That's a "pull" style clutch. Only the turbos used that. The N/A hydraulic clutches work just the same as the cable clutches. The release fork pushes the release bearing into the pressure plate. No difference in the release bearings. There is a difference in the 2.2 and 2.5 pressure plate. 2.5 plate has a stronger spring which gives it more clamping force, but the two are interchangable.

As long as its submerged I don't think it really matters. I never bother to bleed them because when they're pumped up all the way they can cause the valves to hang open and you get no compression. Makes for a stupid problem trying to get an engine to start after fresh head gaskets or timing belt and 3 cylinders have no compression. I just pop them in empty and let the oil pump fill them. It makes some racket for 10-20 minutes but it doesn't hurt anything. It does help to disassemble the rocker assembly and clean out all the little passages, then prime the rocker shaft with fresh oil before putting the lifters in and bolting it back on the head. Be sure to torque the rocker assembly to head bolts properly.

If the threads are clean where they came out of the head just re-use them. Those are about 50/50 whether the nut comes off or the stud comes out of the head.

Not really. They all got stuck at "zero lash" which is the point where they would normally sit when the cam lobe is opposite of the rocker. Someone neglected some oil changes at some point which caused varnish buildup in the lifters and the buildup is just preventing them from opening any further. I would buy a lot of lifters for $0.51 a piece.

I don't remember if Subaru spec'd different lifters for the intake and exhaust sides, but that might be worth checking. Otherwise, its entirely possible those "short" ones are just gummed up inside. I don't think they can be disassembled, but you might be able to get the gunk cleaned out by soaking them in kerosene or diesel and working the plunger occasionally.

Don't use those white plugs. They'll just corrode again. There are much better weather proof plugs available. Dorman 84790 They look just like the factory ones, except have big fat wires, and even have the rubber boot on them.

Check the filler pipe in the right rear wheel well. Common leak spot. There is a cover on the filler that traps dirt, crud, salt, gravel, and moisture. It leads to rusting of the filler pipe and small pinhole leaks. Edit: I said left before, meant to say right. (Brain fart)