Fairtax4me

Anybody know where the best price on an Exedy 15010 clutch kit is these days? Amazon has them for $135. Free shipping TheBay has one for $134. Free shipping Just posting to see if there are any better deals out there that I may be missing, and hopefully this will help someone else find a better deal as well.

Newer cars deactivate the cruise control when the CEL is on.

They're easy to replace without removing the pump. These pumps are easy to clean and inspect. If you don't have a big vice, be sure to loosen the big hex plugs on the bottom and the one on the front before unbolting it from the engine.

Just get the heat shrink crimp connectors if you've never soldered before. Slide an extra piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire before you put the connector on in case you damage the heat shrink on the connector. The cheap crimp tools don't always play nice.

The actuation method of the clutch makes no difference. The clutches work exactly the same (probably even the same part). For tipping the engine, hook a ratchet strap from the pitch mount bolt on the firewall (remove the pitch mount, stick the bolt back in) to the alternator bracket. Just be careful not to damage the throttle position sensor.

I would only trust a shop that specializes in Subaru repair. It would be a good idea to find an independent Subaru shop and get a second opinion.

Yep. Those connectors are quite prone to damage from heat caused by corrosion of the connectors, (as you can see by all the green stuff) and aging in general. Every parts place I've seen sells replacements. A pair is usually $12-15. Solder and heat shrink the wires together, or use the heat shrink type crimp connectors.

O2 probably isn't causing this problem (it would cause all cylinders to misfire rather than just the one) and there's no way a cat would cause an issue that happens only at idle. Try cleaning the MAF sensor, (use MAF sensor or electronics cleaner) check for any loose or split vacuum hoses and make sure all of the intake piping is securely connected and all of the breather hoses are attached where they should be with no split ends. That engine does have EGR and its possible the EGR valve could be stuck open and causing a misfire, but that would usually result in multiple cylinder misfires. Since this is just one cylinder, this points toward a mechanical problem, or possibly fuel injector problem specific to that cylinder. Check valve lash. If either of the exhaust valves on number 2 has 0 lash that valve is probably burned. I'd say do a compression test, but its a PITA to do on that engine.

Don't need a scanner for a 92. It can flash the codes to you if you do the secret handshake. (And an OBD2 scanner will not connect to a 92) I read this before and thought you meant the CEL would blink in unison with the turn signal or brake light. If the CEL just happens to turn on while the bulb is not working that may just be coincidence. Either way the bulb issue is either a bad bulb, socket, or electrical connection to the bulb.

P0136 = O2 circuit sensor 2 This code would be for the rear sensor, no it would not be affected or caused by the resonator pipe. More than likely caused by a dead sensor or damaged wiring to the sensor. This sensor does not affect fuel economy or engine running condition, it is only a check sensor for the catalytic converters.

What John said. Burned exhaust valve will act just like this. Has the valve lash clearance ever been adjusted? Could also be jumped timing. Check simple stuff first though.

My guess would be they did put in the "memory saver" dohickie, but they foolishly let the positive battery cable touch the chassis or the negative cable after they removed them from the battery. Even though the memory saver is a small battery it still has enough juice to blow a fuse (even an alkaline AA 1.5v battery can blow a small automotive fuse). By letting the battery cables touch this creates a short of the DLC power pin circuit. This pin always has battery voltage, even if the key is off. It's connected directly to the battery through that 7.5 amp fuse (and a larger fuse under the hood). This makes the DLC a prime place to plug in a memory saver. But when the battery cables touch it essentially creates a short circuit through that fuse, since there is no resistance in that circuit. Low resistance = high amperage = blown fuse Now that the fuse is blown, that circuit is dead, no power from the memory saver can reach the radio or the other components it is supposed to supply. The ECU monitors that circuit, which is why it lit the CEL. Fuse replaced, now a scanner should be able to connect to read any codes. The ECU may not set a "code" for a problem on the DLC power circuit, often the "code" is that it just turns the CEL on.

Belt is loose. Or probably the idler pulley bearing is going bad. Try a new belt and make sure the idler bearing is in good shape. If its dry and rattly replace it.

Shoulda bought those high speed muffler bearings. At least you don't have to worry about the misfire anymore... O.o

Single platinum or double? I'm not a fan of either but if you use platinum plugs with a wasted spark system they have to be double platinum.

I'm a firm believer that you have to leave ONE thing broke, because as soon as you fix it something else will break. I don't know why, but that's the way cars work. Plug wires are new? Plugs are new? Coil pack could be on its way out if it already has damage.

99 forester has the phase 2 block (251 iirc). Bigger rod bearings (good), but suffers from the external head gasket leaks. Not the internal failure of the phase 1 2.5l blocks. Did you ask the dealer if head gaskets and timing have both been done on this car? Timing is overdue on both age and mileage. Best time to do head gaskets is the 105k timing belt interval. It sounds like a good price as long as the car is in decent shape (no rust, brakes and tires good), and the timing stuff has been replaced.

Not real sure what part you're asking about. Several reasons for insulation, these days it mostly for sound. On some of the older injectors they had problems with the tips freezing in cold weather and causing hard/no starting. Possibly the reason there, but I don't see why the transmission would matter for that. Ignition timing is probably different because of emissions. The auto trans puts more load on the engine it idle, so engine speed needs to be higher to compensate. Bumping up the timing advance helps increase engine power at low RPM without largely increasing fuel consumption.

You don't need to worry about it ignition timing because the ECU will set that on its own. There is no way to adjust it so just roll with it. Don't bother with swapping injectors, waste of time. The flow rates are almost exactly the same and the ECU will just adjust pulse width to adjust how much fuel it needs.

Good thing is you can set toe (the only thing youll be messing with) with a tape measure. Pick a point on the tread (I usually use the center block) and measure across the front of the tire to the same point of tread on the opposite tire. Use a point as close as you can get to 90 degrees from the bottom of the tire. Measure at the same point across the rear of the tires. Adjust the tie rods (small eaqual amounts) until the front measurement is 1/8" (or slightly less) less than the rear measurement.

You don't even have to worry about the rest for this, but it would have been better if you had reset the splines before taking it for an alignment. The shop adjusted wheel position by adjusting the tie rods, which, as bad as it sounds, is the normal way to center the steering wheel during an alignment. They SHOULD HAVE reset the u joint on the input shaft of the rack, but that's NOT something an algnment tech will check or do unless you told them you swapped the rack. What you'll have to do now is completely remove the tie rod ends from the tie rods, remove the u joint, center the rack in the housing (measure from the ends of the tie rods to the end caps on the rack housing), then center the wheel and re-install the u joint.

If you have play the wheel bearing is shot. The older Subarus use tapered rollers instead of ball bearings, so they can make noise for thousands of miles without showing any play. Ball bearings are kinda the opposite, they can have play any not make noise. Subaru FSM says that the axle nut needs to be torqued before putting the wheel on the ground. This is done to preload the bearing and avoid damaging the races, which will cause the bearing to fail. These are also unsealed bearings, so any dirt that gets inside the axle seals in the knuckle will damage the bearing. The outer seal is not usually an issue since the hub has to be pulled out of the bearing, but the inner seal seals against the axle stub, so any time the axle is removed the bearing is exposed. This means that most of the time the bearing failure is going to be the inner half of the bearing, which tends to reverse the typical bearing failure symptoms. If it makes noise when turning right, it may actually be the right side bearing, rather than the left side which is typical for a failed ball bearing.

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Indulge us, what is the problem you're troubleshooting?

It's probably the main shaft bearing. When they get bad enough it lets the input shaft wobble all around and slide back/forth too much. Causes the center hub of the clutch disc to break. Easy way out is to replace the trans. The bearing is only about $50, but it takes a few hours to disassemble and reassemble the trans and put the new bearing in.