Fairtax4me

GT has bigger aluminum wheels, bigger sway bars, shorter FDR. Usually has leather seats, sunroof, and more sporty bumper styling. L has 15" steelies (hub caps), cloth seats, not much else. Cars101.com has all the differences listed in the archive section.

The fans are controlled by several relays depending on several factors. Check all of the relays in the under hood fuse box.

After doing some quick searching It looks to me like that car should have originally come with a 185-70 R14 87S tire. Kinda seems that if the car has a 14" wheel they spec. an S rating. If it has a 15" wheel they spec. an H rating. I kinda doubt your 92 FWD came with 15" wheels originally. This could just be a case of incorrect database information. I checked on both my 95 and 96 and they both have the original tire size, load and speed ratings printed on the tire info stickers in the door jamb. (Same size as above) The same info is also in the owners manual in the Specifications section. Look on the tire info sticker and see what it says. If it says it came with an S rated tire, show that sticker to the shop.

Sounds like a ploy to sell tires. There should be some info on the tire inflation sticker about which size, and maybe weight and speed rating the vehicle originally came with. I would think you can easily get by with an S rated tire. (I doubt you'll ever be doing 112 mph with it). Are the tires that are currently on the car H rated?

98 is weight rating, T is speed rating. Not sure who told you that you can't go above a 5 ply tire. More plys is not a big deal, its when you go with fewer plys that you run into problems. The number of plys really shouldn't be a factor in your decision making, since I can almost guarantee that any off-road capable tire you find in the size you need will have an adequate number of plys. know BFGoodrich makes the All Terrain T/A in 17" sizes but I don't know of any specific sizes or how close you could get to the original size if they don't have it. (Though I would think you can probably get within about 5%, which should be acceptable.) General Tire is another good brand for off-road tires, and will cost a bit less than BFG. The best for overall mileage would probably be Michelin, but I'm unsure what they offer for off-road suitable tires. Also check out Firestone, they have a good line-up of off-road tires. Tireracks page with their offerings of tires in that size. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=0&autoMake=Subaru&autoYear=2013&autoModel=Outback&autoModClar=2.5i+Premium&width=225%2F&ratio=60&diameter=17&sortCode=49751&skipOver=true&minSpeedRating=S&minLoadRating=S&tab=All You can sort by type on the left side to help narrow down or expand the results. Firestone, Michelin, and Yomohama all have good tires in that size. The Geolandar has a more aggressive tread pattern than a standard all season if you're looking for something that will have better traction in mud or snow.

Yep. You have the right understanding of what they do, but they're not tied to each other in any way. It wouldn't be good to have a failure of the EGR system forcing exhaust into the fuel tank via the evap system hoses. Or to have unburned fuel vapor being sucked down the EGR piping into the exhaust system. They have totally separate parts and hoses, and the components even live on opposite sides of the engine.

Someone probably dumped a bottle of stop leak into the overflow and it solidified. Or someone didnt like their banana pudding...

Bad speed sensor or the plastic gear that drives the sensor could have stripped. There were a few years where the gears for the sensor had a problem, I think 99 was the main one.

If you have a spare BPT that only takes a minute to swap so its worth trying. But make sure all of the vacuum hoses that connect to the BPT, the EGR valve, and the EGR solenoid, are in good shape. EGR and Evap are completely unconnected. All they have in common is the vacuum source.

All you really need is the ECU and the body side harness from a 1995 -1997 manual trans Legacy. Automatics tend to have EGR and he associated wiring, manual trans does not. You already have the engine harness you need. The body harness will plug right into the three main plugs on the bellhousing. That engine almost never has trouble with head gaskets. I wouldn't bother wih them unless you really want to, but they are really easy to do. The big ones are going to be front end seals (cam and crank) oil pump o ring, the cam plug orings (front drivers side, rear passenger side), and the valve cover gaskets. And get a full timing kit, (water pump, idlers, belt).

They pretty much last forever. They're simple magnetic pickup sensors, unless something damages the case they don't generally go bad.

Where was this oil change done? If it was jiffy lube (or something like it) they probably drained the ATF instead of the engine oil. Foamy ATF can be due to either too low or too high fluid level, or incorrect fluid type. Since its not shifting into higher gear, I would suspect the fluid level to be too low. TPS signal needs to be calibrated so the ECU knows when the throttle plate is fully closed. Just slapping a new one on does no good without calibrating.

No EGR on that one. It would be on the back of the number 4 intake runner. (Rear runner, drivers side)

Salvage title is fine if you plan to keep it until the wheels fall off (assuming it was properly repaired), but it does raise all kinds of eyebrows with insurance. I'd pass on it for that price. A clean low miles 98 Impreza is worth about that much with a clean title. A wrecked one that's been fixed is a gamble depending on what damage was done and how it was repaired, but the salvage title takes off a thousand easy.

The dented oil pan will not cause it to idle rough. It may starve the bearings of oil because it often blocks the pickup tube screen which prevents the oil pump from sucking oil out of the pan. This quickly leads to knocking and other interesting clattering noises as the rod bearings chew themselves to bits. No noise, no harm, but still a good idea to replace the pan. (Make the shop do it) These engines have a hard time dropping under 400 rpm without stalling. They just don't have the rotational mass to keep them spinning below that. If you don't have a CEL with a code for a misfire, I would suspect the IAC needs to be cleaned, and check any vacuum hoses for loose fit and cracks.

Get it warmed up one night and most some water (spray bottle) on the coil pack, look for sparklies.

Looks like a 95 EJ22. Only OBD2 year with dual port heads (at least in the US). Download the FSM for 95 here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ That will have any info you need. I can see the VIN plate in the pics but I don't see anything on it!

It may say in the owners manual, but probably is going to have to be done by the dealer.

Be sure to install the sprocket with the notches on the back on the drivers side. The notches are what trigger the cam sensor.

Service engine is yellow with picture of an engine? That needs to go to the dealer and have them scan it for codes. (Its under warranty, its free) If its just a "maintenance reminder" light, look in the owners manual, there should be instructions on how do the secret handshake to reset it. Something like pat your tummy and rub your head while singing the tra-la-la song, and push all these buttons and it'll blink 15 times fast and reset.

There isn't any electronics associated with the EGR system anyway except the EGR purge solenoid which doesn't provide any feedback to the ECU, so it has no clue what works or doesn't. (It can only tell if the solenoid or worong to it is shorted or open). Even a high end scanner wouldn't help any more than your laptop software in this case. To determine if the EGR valve is opening and there is actually exhaust gas flowing it has to look for a change in the O2 sensor signal after the EGR valve opens. (Only happens at certain times) Most of the time the EGR code is due to a bad BPT valve, but it can be caused by bad vacuum hoses/connections.

Rigt, It's best to keep anything electronic that came from the car with the car. ECU, injectors, TPS, IAC, all that. That manifold will bolt right onto your donor engine, and everything will work just the same. Cam and crank sprockets changed design in/around 2002. The number of teeth on the reluctor wheels built into the outer edges of the sprockets changed, so you have to match the sprockets to the ECU (00 sprockets with 00 ECU) so the computer can understand the cam and crank sensor signals. The sensors didnt change any as far as I'm aware, just the sprockets. The only hangup with the injectors would be if they changed the size of the seats where it fits into the rail or the style of the connector. If they fit the rails and have the same plug they'll work no problem.

Pretty easy to figure out power/ ground for the pump itself with an ohmmeter. Just see which wire has continuity to ground. (Have to unplug the connector). The wires for the pump are the larger two of the four wires in that connector. The smaller wires are for the guage.

Doubtful it's crank or cam sensor. Those either work or they don't. Same with the igniter. Pull the knock sensor and check it for cracks. Beyond that I would guess failing fuel pump (check pressure) or a clogged Cat.

Send them to a company that will use an ultrasonic/chemical cleaner. They can flow test them as well. Kind of a waste of money though since you can just put them back on and run a good fuel system cleaner (BG44K). Unless there is some problem (subaru injectors hardly ever go bad) I wouldn't bother to mess with them except to put new O-rings on.