Fairtax4me

I think all the rear diffs have male axles after 95. I'd guess its closer to 40lbs, but still not easy to lift up into position if you're laying under the car. The bolts on the back are just studs with a nut on the end. Remove the nut and slide the diff forward to slide the studs out of the bushings. Sometimes the whole thing comes out (bad on some models since you can't get it out because the floor pan is in the way).

How did you determine that the 1& 2 injectors are dropping out? Have you checked compression?

Like cap'n said, the free one has a phase 2 block. 99 Legacy Outback and GT had that block with DOHC shim/bucket heads. Find the vin stamp on the lower corner of the bellhousing. Check the 10th digit and that will tell you exactly what model year that engine came from. T=96, V=97, W=98, X=99, Y=00. In 01 it went back to numeric, starting with 1=01, 2=02, etc.

You may find yourself making multiple holes in the floor to get to it. Basically, remove the other bolt (if possible) and run a punch up through it to make an indent in the floor pan. Measure the center-to-center spacing between the bolts, then measure from the dent to figure roughly where the hole should be. If you can't remove the other bolt, some very detailed work with a ruler or tape measure and a t-square or straight-edge will get you in the ballpark. I dont remember if those are under the ECU or if they are a bit further back.

Does your scanner show freeze frame data? That would show the conditions present at the time the cose is set. 2.9v is low. With that style of sensor that indicates a rich mixture. Or the sensor is failing and is giving a false rich reading. Check the post cat sensor (S2) voltage. If the post car sensor voltage indicates a rich mixure you may have a fuel system problem. (Clogged injectors, or bad MAF/MAP sensor signal) If it indicates a lean mixture the pre-cat sensor (S1) is bad.

The starter issues with these are not generally because of the battery cables. It's the high amperage contacts inside the solenoid that wear and cause the "click" problem. Only cost about $15 and take 45 minutes to replace. Easy to do one evening after work. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/denso-starter-contacts A How-To here: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=9186 He says you need to take it apart then go get the contacts, but as far as I've seen you can pretty much order either set (the wide or the short ones) and they'll work. Good thing is if you need the short ones, and you order a wide set you can just cut the long edge off and put them in.

More a function of the transmission than the throttle body. You stomped it hard enough to make it kick down into 3rd,(maybe even 2nd) then let off just as it shifted. Engine speed went up since it shifted to a lower gear. Higher engine speed means more engine braking. Stays that way for a second then it figures out you're not still at WOT, so it shifts back to 4th and then you cruise along.

If crank is out one tooth that's 15 degrees out of time, plenty enough to cause problems.

U-pull-it Junkyard. Nothing wrong with a used solenoid. Could also try posting in the parts wanted forum, or check eBay.

Random? Short answer, phase2.

If its just spinning in the hole the captive nut in the floor pan has probably broken off. Not fun to get those out. Those bolts are M14 x 1.5 IIRC.

I hammer a flat head screwdriver through those to pry them out.

Subaru! FTW!!!!11

Is the bottom of the trans pan dented? Sounds like you have damaged solenoids of damaged wiring. Could be from something hitting the trans pan, or someone put a jack under the trans pan while working on the car. Could also be wiring issue between the control module and trans. Look at the trans wire harness on the left side for any signs of damage, mouse or squirrel chewing, etc.

Pull the end covers and line the crank up at the TDC mark on the center cover. Do the arrows on the cams point straight up? This is the only time the arrows are useful, except for setting valve lash. Not convinced its timing related unless you're more than a tooth off. But then you would get Crank or Cam sensor codes and misfire codes. P0031 is HO2S B1,S1, heater control circuit. This code will not affect the way the engine runs. O2 sensors do not affect engine operation when the engine is cold anyway. I've done full timing jobs with the fans still in, and the alternator and steering pump too. Not hard once you know where everything is and how its all supposed to fit together. Saves time too.

Shouldn't WRX be a 2.0? 2.5 turbo was only in the STI until the Legacy GT and Forester XT turbo starting in like 05-06?

That could just be the pressure relief valve. These are so cheap to replace used and so easy to remove its hardly worth messing with the old one though.

Yeah Play in the wheel bearings on these cars means they are SHOT. Sucks to have to change it, but if you need the car...

Not quite sure what you mean by "going off". Is the Check Engine Light on? If its pinging that's a sure sign the knock sensor is NOT working, since the knock sensors job is to detect pinging so the ECU knows to dial back the ignition timing to prevent it. You may not always get a code for a bad knock sensor, but it can cause the car to ping and lose power if it goes bad. Other things that will cause pinging are an excessively lean fuel mixture, (can be caused by a vacuum leak, dirty or bad MAF sensor, bad O2 sensor,etc) or the engine is overheating.

Those wheel bearings go for forever making noise. I'd ride it out and concentrate on getting the 95 up and running. No point spending a bunch of money ona ncar you're going to get rid of soon. (Plus the 95 may need wheel bearings too)

Only thing I can think of if youre sure its coming from the differential end of the axle, maybe the inner dust cover on the axle cup is rubbing against the differential case. Much more common for the brake pads to squeak from rubbing against the caliper piston and on the slide shims on the mounting bracket. This can usually be fixed by removing the pads and throughly cleaning the backs of the pads and the shims on the bracket. Then applying a smear of high temp brake grease to the back sides of the pads where they make contact with the caliper. The jerky, jumpy turning is usually what's called "Torque Bind", caused by the drivetrain when going around corners. The wheels all need to turn different speeds, and the speed difference from left to right gets sorted out by the front and rear differentials. But there is also a speed difference between front and rear wheels, which normally is sorted out by the center differential (in manual trans) or AWD transfer clutches (in automagic). If the transfer packs (or center diff) fail they lock up and don't allow the necessary speed difference between front and rear. This causes the drivetrain to twist until there is enough torque to force the clutches in the AWD unit to slip. The twist is relieved for about a foot, then it starts to bind again, releases, bind, release, which is what causes the jumping feeling. The process repeats itself until the car is going straight again. Automagics are most prone to this, and there is a way to test if the clutches are bad or of the solenoid (Duty C solenoid) the controls fluid pressure to the clutches is functioning properly. Under the hood on the passenger strut tower at the back is a small black fuse holder which should say FWD on top. Put a fuse in the holder (any fuse) and the trans will be forced into FWD only. This mode takes all of the line pressure off of the AWD transfer clutch pack which should make it unlock completely. The FWD light on the dash should also turn on. If the jumping feeling goes away, its because the clutches are "sticky" and may need to be replaced. If it doesn't go away, the Duty C solenoid may be bad, or the clutch pack is damaged and is no longer able to unlock. (Grooves wear into the sides and wedge the clutch plates together) Generally its best to try changing the ATF first, just drain and refill 3 times with short drives in between. It can help to do tight circles in reverse. If that doesn't help the clutch pack needs to be replaced. In a manual trans there is no way to service the center diff and it just needs to be replaced.

Shouldn't have any affect on the CEL, but stranger things have happened. Change the bulb, and make sure the socket is clean and free of corrosion. If the socket is badly corroded replace it.

Bad clock spring. Clock spring is the ribbon cable that transfers all of the electricity for the horn, cruise buttons, and airbag. Have to pull the wheel off and its the first thing you'll see. I think they're pretty expensive new, but a junkyard clock spring assembly is a gamble.

Mechanically the Tribeca is much the same as an H6 outback. Chain driven timing doesn't need any real maintenance except maybe the chain and guides will be worn enough at 300k to warrant replacement. Lifting can be done fairly easily with some slightly larger tires and spacers on top of the struts.

Yep, DC tags are a common sight here, even being 3 hours away. If you have an old dwell tach it probably won't read correctly on the wasted spark system used in the Subaru. This system is one of the reasons (actually the main reason) these cars are so picky about spark plugs and wires. I've seen platinum type spark plugs cause problems on these engines, but it's usually a constant misfire, or a misfire under load. It is conceivable that they could cause a minor issue such as what you're experiencing. I've never gone wrong using standard copper in these cars. I'd suggest swapping the platinums for a set of NGK V power coppers (the $2.99 a piece ones).