Fairtax4me

Hopefully it holds up. They tend to crack at or near the pivot point. Years of use cause wear at the pivot which causes thinning and "work hardening" of the material which leads to cracking. Basic metal fatigue at work. Someone posted a picture not long ago where the dimple for the pivot had worn through and the pivot stud actually went through the fork. The fork looked almost like it had a bullet hole in it.

The grounding circuitry for the bulb is built into the voltage regulator. FSM suggests one of the diodes in the regulator could be bad, but its probably not repairable. The circuit is grounded to the case of the alternator, so it may be worh a shot to ensure that the case is well grounded to the mounting bracket.

Should be fine but it may go into "limp mode". If it does just turn the car off and back on and it should be OK to drive a little more. If you really really need the sensor you can order online from advance auto parts and use a discount code from retailmenot.com then pick it up in store and save a bunch of $$.

Do you have an aftermarket stereo? Sometimes the housing of the radio can run against something in the dash. The screws that hold the trim in place can become loose. There are two screw that stick up into the bottom of the trim panel and hold the ash tray bracket. This is a metal on metal area which would cause a squeak if the dash flexs a certain way. Lots of other places where a squeak can occur in the dash. You might try removing the glove box entirely to see if the noise gets louder (meaning it is behind or near the glove box area).

If it is still overheating then it probably needs head gaskets, which are not worth the gamble of replacing. A scrap yard will not give you what the car is worth, even as a non-running car (essentially what it is now with a bad engine) you should still be able to get $1000-$1500 for it depending on the condition of the rest of the car and the market in your area.

I learned that from one of Cougar's posts on here quite a while ago.

Overheating to the point of shutdown is extremely damaging to an engine. Rod and main bearing caps and journals expand, the oil runs out of them like water and the bearings get scored and chewed up. Pistons expand at a rate different than the block and eventually seize in their cylinders. This is generally what causes the engine to stop moving. Once it cools the pistons contract and free, but the damage is already done. The cylinder walls get scored and the rings get crammed up with the tiny metal shavings. Eventually they work themselves out, but in the process they chew up the cylinder walls even more. Compression goes down the tube, and if the bearings last long enough it will burn oil until the compression gets so low it will hardly run. Kind of a grim scenario, but that's about all there is to it. I would repair the coolant leak, fill the cooling system, change the oil and just see how the car does for a little while. Drive a few hundred miles and if it hasn't started knocking yet take an oil sample and send it in for analysis. Oil Analyzers Inc. and Blackstone Labs are some of the popular testers. Usually costs about $30. Analysis will tell you if there is an excessive amount of bearing material in the oil. It will also tell you the amount of fuel dilution, water contamination, and the amount of many other types of common contaminants that are in the oil. Knowing what's in the oil will help determine which parts of the engine are wearing, and can help determine what you need to do if further repairs are needed.

It will likely need to have an alignment done afterward. It's all fairly straightforward as long as you can get the tie rod ends loose from the rack and knuckles. The inners can be tricky, but I've used a large pair of lock jaw pliers (channel locks) to remove and tighten them. The biggest thing is that you have to get them sufficiently tightened so they don't loosen during driving. Outer tie rod ends are fairly simple. Remove the lock nut, knock the joint out of the knuckle. You can then loosen the inner joint and spin the whole thing off as one part. Lay the new parts next to this and thread them together so they are the same length. Mark the threads on the new tie rod, then take them apart, install the inner, slide the new boot over it (use lots of silicone spray or silicone grease) then thread on the lock nut, then the new outer end and stick it into the knuckle. Spin the tie rod until the marks line up. Tighten the locknut on the tie rod. Repeat for the other side. You can do a DIY toe alignment afterward with a tape measure. With the wheels on the ground and suspension at rest position (roll the car a few feet forward and back after putting it down) Pick a point in the tire tread ( I usually use the center block) and measure across the front (as close to 90 degrees from the ground as you can) to the same point on the other tire. Now do the same on the rear of the tire and compare the distance. Adjust so there is between 0" and 1/8" shorter distance across the front. This will give a very slight amount of toe-in which will allow you to drive to a shop to have it properly aligned. It helps if you have ramps to do this, since it can be tricky to get under the front of the car to adjust the tie rods while the car is on the ground.

Bulb test is when all of the warning lights in the dash turn on when you turn the key to ON. Cel, AT Temp, battery, oil pressure, seatbelt, etc. Some turn on then turn back off after a few seconds. Others the engine has to start before they will turn off. The battery light comes on during the bulb test, then turns off after the engine starts. (If this is how the bulb behaves, the circiut is working normally) If the alternator is not spinning the pin acts as a ground path for the bulb circuit (power flows from fuse box to bulb to alternator to ground). Once spinning, the alternator supplies a matching voltage to the pin which prevents current flow, so the bulb does not light. (Power from fuse box, power from alternator, meet in the middle at the bulb, neither can pass the other, no current flow means bulb is not lit, power struggle ensues, neither has an advantage. Eventually alternator gives up and stops charging after many tens or hundreds of thousands of miles, light turns on)

There are two speed sensors on the auto trans IIRC, so knowing which one the code is for (1 or 2) can help with diagnosing the issue. There is also another speed sensor in the speedometer head which is ised to convert the 8 pulse signal from the forward sensor on the trans (up near the front differential) into a 4 pulse signal for the ECU. If this goes bad the ECU gets no speed signal which will affect ahift points and other things. Vehicle speed affects the engagement of the DutyC solenoid so the TCU may just be freaking out that the VSS is not sending the correct signal. ABS code 11 indicates the ABSCM is in self diagnostic mode. You will always get code 11 even if there are no other codes. Check the wheel speed sensors for crud on the tips and reset the ABS codes and see what comes back. If the ABS light is not ON during normal driving the ABS is working correctly at the time.

Check the connector for corrosion first.

So the light works, but it doesn't turn on during the bulb test?

Buzz/rattle is almost always heat shields. Are you sure the sound is from the muffler and not a heat shield above it? Or from one of the ones further forward like the cat or the Y pipes?

You may be able to find the small O rings at autozone or something, but I think the large o rings that fits into the manifold has to come from a dealer.

Buy flush (Prestone, Zerex, some others in the chemicals section at the auto parts store) follow directions on bottle.

Squeaking is gonna be a ball joint or one of the outer tie rod ends. Since the rack boots are both torn I'd suggest you replace the boots, inner and outer tie rod ends on both sides, and you may need at least one lower ball joint. The squeak is because the grease that lubricates the ball joint has escaped through a ripped dust boot and water and dirt have got into the joint and made it rust. Rusty metal + rusty metal + weight of the car on the joint = squeaky noisy when the joint moves (tuening the wheel).

Not saying I've never done the same, but going with used on certain parts can end up costing a lot more in the long run when they fail again. Ive had plenty of gambles wih used parts and most of the time they work out fine. But the clutch release fork is cheap enough I wouldnt even consider used. The forks wear out and break with age and use. Unless you're in a position to pull the engine or trans yourself and replace it again (free, except for a few hours of your own time), saving $35 could end up costing you another $500 in labor 6 months down the road if/when the replacement fork cracks.

Same thoughts. Run a flush agent through it, replace upper and lower radiator hoses, and refill with Subaru coolant and a bottle of Subaru coolant conditioner.

Just Find a low mileage junkyard trans and swap it out.

Good chance the O-rings around the injectors are damaged and are leaking. They're tricky to reinstall without damaging the o-rings.

Used fork?!? Are you in the middle of Egypt (rhetorical) and there are no dealers nearby?!? The clutch fork is a $35 part brand new. Pretty sure every dealer stocks them too because its a fairly common failure.

Have you checked Rockauto? They list two different styles for the 3.0 for under $100. Built by Bosal.

The code is being probably caused by a massive vacuum leak. Much larger than what the little hose to the MAP sensor could produce. Possible the intake gaskets have not sealed properly. Did you replace both sides or just one? Did you remove the fuel injectors from the manifold during disassembly? What about the throttle body? Is the brake booster hose connected? Is the EGR pipe connected? Is the EGR valve gasket new? Is the main ground point on the manifold clean and tight? Are the three plugs on the bellhousing fully engaged and have clean pins inside?

Loose gas cap? These deactivate cruise and Traction control (the swervy icon) when the CEL comes on. Dunno if it can be reset without a scanner (possibly the secret handshake in the link above will have an way to do that). But you can unhook the battery negative for a few minutes and that should clear the codes and re-activate the cruise and traction control. Find out what the CEL code is first.

Might see what ShawnW (RetroRoo) can do for parts/prices. I'm sure shipping from Denver is cheaper and quicker than waiting for something from one of the coasts where it seems like all of the online dealers are. There's nothing that says you have to use Subaru screws on the separator. You can get screws that match the size and thread pitch at your local hardware store. Just be sure to put some thread sealer on the one by the arrow.