Fairtax4me

A small amount of grey is normal. Gears wear a little no matter how new or slippery the fluid is, and the shavings from that wear just get stuck to the case.

I don't think either of those vacuum ports will work for what you probably need them for. There should be a port on the number 3 intake runner that you can use for the FPR, and run a T to the MAP sensor. If you need another port to connect the evap solenoid you could use one of the ports on top of the TB, but I would probably just T that in with the FPR and MAP as well.

Ask for the parts list of what else they did besides the belt. The belts almost never break on their own. They always get shredded by a failed idler pulley or water pump. If the parts list doesn't include a water pump, tensioner, and 3 pulleys those need to be done as well. Keep up on fluid changes and timing belt maintenance and it'll be a solid runner for 100k easy.

$35 for that kit! Ill just solder them back on. Found a YouTube vid of a guy soldering one back and it doesn't appear to be too harmful as long as its done quickly. Think ill wait til mid day when the sun is bearing down on the window and has it nice and warmed up. Should help spread the heat more evenly.

If you suspect that, measure the resistance of the cheap sensor against a known good original sensor. IIRC it should be around 580 K ohm.

Found this while working on my 95 sedan today. BOTH sides have been broken off! O.o The positive side was laying right against the sheet metal under the trim, so I'm sure the fuse is probably blown, if the timer module isn't completely toast. I've repaired the grids before, but never this. As many things as I've soldered, I've never soldered on glass, and I'm wondering if that's the only way to fix this? Or is there some magic "metal glue" that I can use the stick these back on? Id sure hate to try soldering this back, and end up shattering the rear windsheild. But with cooler weather on the horizon I need to try and fix this now so I can use the defroster this winter! Any ideas?

That was for an 09, they may have changed it for 10. I would be inclined to yank out the in tank filter (if possible) and put an inline canister filter under the hood where its easily accessible.

Ohhhh, this is the one that caught fire...! Then you may have a LOT of checking to do! Any burn marks on the coil from the fire? Could have water damage if they put out the fire with a hose and soaked the coil.

That's exactly what he's doing! :-o No, I'm j/k! Have you managed to find a replacement filter? I tried looking for a filter for an 09 a while ago and found out it IS in the tank, apparently inside the pump assembly, and not accessible. Not even Subaru carried a replacement. Parts guy at my local dealer said they had never replaced one, and the only way he could get a filter would be to order the whole pump assembly. Checked with a tech and he couldn't find a replacement interval for it, seeming to indicate the filter is supposed to be a "lifetime" filter.

MAP sensor codes are most often caused by a loose or cracked vacuum hose going to the MAP sensor. The sensor is mounted on the passenger strut tower, and has a solenoid right next to it. Check the line from the sensor to the solenoid, and from the solenoid to the engine. That hose may run to a T that also goes to the fuel pressure regulator. If so check the hose to the FPR as well.

The bolts are M12, distance between them is something like 5", but I can get exact center to center tomorrow. From left to right side I'm not sure.

Get the codes scanned, post the codes here and we can help figure out the best options for repair. 5 quarts is a lot of fluid for one of these transmissions. It should only be 3.5-4 for a drain and refill. It may be overfilled and that can lead to problems. Fluid level should be checked with engine running and warm in park after shifting through all gears.

Gary does flipping it to lock still lock the other doors? Unlocking seems to be the only issue for mine. I always hear the relay and the lock solenoids click when I flip it back to lock.

IIRC Those are the three monitors have to have a very specific set of circumstances completed in a certain order before they will set Ready. Try the method in the link from this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134825-subaru-tsb-how-to-set-your-im-monitors-for-emissions-testing/ That should get the monitors set. Once set they should stay set. If they don't stay set then there is an issue with the ECU.

I've heard the later coils have a different plug, but the wires are in the same order (maybe even the same color?) so the plugs can be swapped. Coils are easy enough to swap, but if the one that's on it doesn't test out of range I don't think swapping another onto it will do any good. You could compare resistance of both coils (front and rear halves of both the current and spare). Problem with the coil idea is that there are two coils on each pack, so its hard for both coils to go bad at the same time. Usually you still get fire from one side if the other side goes kaput. Check and compare resistance of the coils. Make sure you're getting 12v at the center pin. Igniters almost never go bad, but if it were bad you'd just get no spark.

Occasionally when I unlock the drivers door on my 96 the other doors do not unlock with it. Flipping the lock lever again (lock-unlock) then makes them unlock. Of course it only happens when I'm unlocking the car from the outside, so I can't listen for the relay to click on-off. (Probably wouldn't help any) I figured it must be a dirty switch contact in the door since flipping the lock again always makes it work, and it will work fine for several weeks or days afterwards. Recently it has become more frequent. Happening several times in the last two weeks. Wondering now if I'm going to have a dead lock timer relay on my hands soon?

Gotta love them discrepancies! Primary is always the 12v side of the coil. (12v pin to negative pin) Should be low resistance, a couple ohms at most. Not usually the problem side if you actually get spark from the coil. Secondary is the output side (12v pin to output post). Generally gonna be in the 10-20 K (kilo) ohm range. This is the high voltage side that makes the spark. This is the one you want to check. Just replaced a coil in my buddies Accord that was spec'd at 14-17 Kohm. Measured at just under 11K ohm. Not a huge difference but enough to weaken the spark and prevent starting. Low resistance reading means partial shorting of the coil, which lowers the output voltage. With the wasted spark system it may jump one plug (the "wasted" plug), but may not be strong enough to jump the plug gap of the plug that is under compression.

Would be nice to know where the plug is to hook up a pressure gauge on these. I remember seeing several plugs on the side of the case, but its difficult to know what each is for.

If they tried to start it at all with the timing being off the valves are bent. Engine speed or driving vs not driving make no difference. You can turn an engine by hand and bend valves if its out of time. Only takes one slip to bend valves.

That's a simple check really. Just remove the rocker arm assembly from the head and recheck the leaking valves. Might want to compress the springs a bit and make sure nothing is wedged in the valve seats (carbon/crud).

Check the TPS with a multimeter. Center pin to either of the other pins will show either steadily increasing or steadily decreasing resistance. If the reading is jumpy (easiest to see with an analog meter since you can watch the needle) the TPS is bad. TPS adjustment is also critical. Check the throttle bore for carbon sludge buildup. It can keep the throttle plate from closing all the way and will throw the closed throttle voltage signal out of spec. Also possible the previous owner tried playing with the throttle stop screw and pushed the TPS out of range. Both of these would likely also cause the CEL to be on. Check that the CEL comes on for a few seconds during the bulb check after starting. If it does not come on the bulb may be burned out. You should also check the ECU for stored codes.

It can if the cylinders are flooded for some reason (Injector leaking down) because WOT commands the ECU to turn off the fuel injectors so any liquid fuel in the cylinders can be blown out. Doesn't sound like the issue here, but if it is its possibly because of a bad coolant temp sensor. I'm not positive the fuel pump is the culprit either. Pumps in these don't go bad very often. I'd pull the uppermost fuel hose off of the fuel rail next time it won't start and see if its getting fuel. (Stick the hose into a bottle then turn the key ON.)

Does the speedometer work now? What is the exact code? There is more than one VSS, and replacing the one on the trans when it clearly works (because the speedometer works) will not fix the problem.

How's the battery? Low voltage will lead to a weak spark. I'm not sure how conclusive the "visible spark" test is with the wasted spark setup. You could still have a fuel delivery issue, or the fuel in the tank could just be ancient and isnt potent enough to fire anymore. Check secondary coil resistance and see if it is below spec. If you want to, try another coil. Check the center pin at the coil to make sure it is getting at least 12v when cranking.

I've had the hydraulic lifters pump up too much and hang the valves open. Check the drain ports on the rocker arms for obstruction, also remove and clean the lifters.