Fairtax4me

Did you get a whole pump assembly? (With tank cap?) I'd replace that whole thing to avoid issues with leaks and broken lines later on.

Quite a few from MI, and several in GR. Difference in the $8 part and the $83 part, probably no difference except wholesale and retail markups. Lots of people have had good luck with the EBay knock sensors, I wouldn't question the quality a bit. They're very simple sensors, no moving parts, and don't need to be expensive.

Struts are what you want to focus on. The springs merely hold the weight of the car up, struts are what controls how that weight moves. Struts can make the ride smooth as glass, or hard as a stone. The original struts are usually the best mix between smooth ride and decent handling. But since yours are now 16 years old, they're probably pretty well worn out. KYB Excell are stock replacement OE struts and will restore the car to its original ride quality. If you think you may want something a bit softer, Monroe makes an OE style strut designed for Import that has a softer ride than the original struts. They are designed with the idea of removing some of the "harshness" of factory struts, which usually means they're going to be extra soft. Some other thoughts. Ride harshness can be affected by worn out wheel bearings, suspension bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends. Give all of these parts a through inspection and replace anything that is worn or loose. Strut mounts isolate some of the jolts that transfer through the strut from reaching the chassis of the car, but they wear out with age and mileage. Of the rubber in the mount is cracked or split, plan on replacing the mounts as well. The rear springs on the wagons will begin to sag with age. If the rear of the car looks low compared to the front, the rear springs should be replaced at the same time as the struts. Using worn sagging springs wih new struts will cause the struts to fail early. Inspect the front and rear springs for signs of rust. If the coils have areas of heavy rust, they will be weakened and can break in those areas. Replace any springs that have heavy pitting or flaking rust on the coils. Always replace springs in pairs (front pair/rear pair) or ride comfort and handling will be adversely affected.

Like Subietrav said, EGR would cause high NOx readings. High CO and CO2 means its either running rich, or the converter is not functioning properly. (Which could be due to a failing O2 sensor). Is the CO2 out of range or just the CO?

Which part of the exhaust? Cat-back? Headers? Checked youtube?

Yes, the sensors can just be unbolted without removing anything else. You may not even need to remove the wheel, but I've never tried with the wheel still on so I'm not sure.

One of your wheel sensors is bad or has dirt/metal flakes stuck to the end, or one of the tone rings is full of crud. Tone ring and sensor are behind the brake rotors. The sensor has 1 bolt securing it to the knuckle. When you check the sensors, each one should have a small pin on the very end of the sensor. If the pin has corroded away the sensor has to be replaced.

You won't notice a difference with a 1" lift. I lifted my sedan 4" and put Outback sway bars on it and it handles better than when it was stock.

Blower motor is under the dash on the passenger side kinda behind the glove box. You may have to remove the glove box to get it out, I don't remember exactly. The intake for the blower motor is the grating in the wiper cowl just at the top of the hood. (Passenger side) You can look down into the open area below the cowl with a flash light to check for leaves and dirt. Have to remove the wiper arms and the cowl cover to get access to clean it out.

How brief is the 12v reading? Should be about 2-3 seconds, coinciding with the click of the fuel pump relay under the dash. Did you remove the plug on the pump and make sure the connector isn't melted? A bad connection could keep the pump from running even if you have 12v at the plug. I don't remember exactly where the pump grounds, but check voltage on the ground side as well to check for a bad ground. If you get high voltage (more than .5v) on the ground pin at the pump (meter negative to chassis ground) you have a poor ground. I'd also pull the pump and check out the wiring in the tank. With the pump out (allow it to dry first) you can use two short jumpers from the battery to see if the pump runs. Don't run it for long because the pump needs fuel to cool it. Should only need it to run for a second to confirm operation.

Right, alternator isn't producing enough voltage to keep all of the electronic parts happy. Check alternator and battery connections, charge the battery, and have the alternator tested ASAP. When those lights come on you're about to get left on the side of the road.

Tire size, vehicle weight, and final drive ratio all play a part in the way the car accelerates. The Crosstrek has bigger tires, and more weight, which will slow it down off the line. Final drive ratio in the CVT may be the same, but in the manual trans they had to go from a 4.11 in the Impreza, to a 4.44 in the Crosstrek to help counter the affect of the weight and tires.

Probably has a paper water pump gasket on it. This is what the paper gaskets do. Get a gasket from a dealer (its rubber coated stainless steel). Or make sure the kit you order has a dealer style gasket. I know MizumoAuto sells dealer style gaskets with some of their kits. I know the Aisin water pump comes with one. Aisin is OE for many Japanese and Asian vehicles.

The new Imprezas are very roomy. The 14 Forester is even more-so. (Both get 30+ mpg) They're deifinity worth a test drive at the very least. The 2.0 is peppy, and a lot of people say the new CVT makes better use of the 2.0 power than the manual trans does. The base Forester still uses the 2.5 which does very well with the CVT at 32mpg. You could go all out and get the XT 2.0 turbo, which is rated to get 28 highway, and go fast at the same time. You can look up specs, prices, pictures, and everything else you can possibly want to know about new Subarus at Cars101.com.

Not sure how coolant would get there unless the bottom of the hole is drilled into the water jacket in the head. Heads don't normally crack that high up. Cracks are almost always in the combustion chambers, between the chamber and the jacket or into one of the valve ports.

Simple answer, its overcharged. The little gauge dohickies they put on the cans are hardly accurate. Need a real set of manifold gauges to watch system pressures while its running to determine if its actually overcharged or if the cheapo gauge is lieing to you.

The O2 sensor reads exhaust oxygen content, it can't tell you exactly what's going into the engine, only what is coming out. The sensor swinging back and forth is the reaction to a changing A/F ratio, not the cause. The purge solenoid is easy to check, and I've seen them get clogged with carbon from the charcoal canister. It should be under the rear intake runner on the passenger side of the engine. Remove the hoses going to it and attach a hose that's long enough that you can easily breath into the hose. Find the green connectors under the drivers dash, plug them together, and turn the key to ON. The ECU will go into test mode, all of the solenoids and relays under the hood will start to click, and the fans will cycle in about 1 second intervals. Check that the purge solenoid emits an audible click, put your finger on the housing to feel for the click as the solenoid opens and closes. Use the vacuum hose you attached to blow through the solenoid as it is clicking. Air should flow then stop in conjunction with the clicking of the solenoid. If no air flows at all the solenoid is clogged. If air flows all the time carbon has jammed it open. A clogged solenoid may not be allowing vapors to be sucked into the engine until vapor pressure is high and engine vacuum is very high (off throttle coasting down an off-ramp). The fuel mixture goes rich and the ECU adjusts the injector pulse width to lean, when you hit the throttle next time the mixture leans out and causes the misfire. A stuck open purge solenoid could be allowing the engine to pull vacuum all the way back to the gas tank and draw liquid fuel into the carbon canister. Which would mean liquid fuel could be spraying into the engine through the purge valve. If the carbon canister gets liquid fuel in it its best to replace it, but you could try removing it for a few days and allowing it to vent and see if it helps. The solenoid can be partially disassembled with some small pliers to bend the fork tabs that hold the steel outer casing on. If you find the cause to be little bits of carbon stuck in the solenoid, replace the charcoal canister. Clean reassemble and test the solenoid, that should be reusable once its clean. There are some other solenoids and valves near the tank (should be in the passenger rear quarter panel below the bumper) which you can check for operation by feeling or listening to them click while it is in test mode.

The thermostat housing like to warp and can leak. Make sure its not coming from the seal between the thermostat housing and water pump housing. This is an easy fix, jut get a new thermostat housing seal and that usually takes care of it. If it is the pump the timing belt has to come off to replace it, just plan on doing a full timing job if it needs a pump.

Did you replace the plug wires too? What kind of spark plugs? Have you had the CEL scanned? Which codes are you getting?

No go on these style bolts. They have a shoulder that you can't tighten past. This is a typical issue with the aftermarket spring bolts. I got a set from rock auto made by Bosal that worked fine, but their donut gasket was too large. Had to get a dealer gasket. If you need bolts in a pinch go to the dealer, but expect to fork over some $$ for them.

I think you can find pump clearance specs in the FSM. Pull the pump and check it just to be sure. How many times has the engine been run since the rebuild? Have you driven it at all? Main and rod bearings are not forgiving of low oil pressure, especially on the first start after a rebuild. It's not good to let the engine idle during the first start. You must keep oil pressure up for about 20 minutes while checking for leaks. This flushes away any material that wipes off of the bearings and allows the bearings to form to the shape of the journals. Plenty of other factors lead to premature bearing failure. Cleanliness being one of the most important. Any dirt or dust between the bearing and journal is a problem. Dirt between the bearing and caps is a problem.

The H6 is a good engine. Not prone to any major failures. The h4 2.5 from 2000 on has issues with the head gaskets leaking externally. The h4 2.2 was only available until 2001 or 2002 in the Impreza, but is a solid engine. No trouble with head gaskets, no common major failures. If the car is way below blue book find out why. Run a CarFax, look for any evidence of new paint or accident damage. Check that all 4 tires are the same size brand and model, and have similar tread wear. Tires are a big issue on AWD cars. Subaru specifies no more than 1/4" difference in circumference between all 4 tires. If any more, damage to the AWD clutches in the transmission will result. You can also test it for binding in the drivetrain which is an indicator of damaged AWD clutches. Take it for a drive and warm it up, then make slow tight circles in a parking lot. The car should feel smooth and should not need an excessive amount of throttle to keep moving. If it feels jumpy or needs a lot of throttle in order to turn it has torque bind and will need repairs to the AWD transfer clutches.

Did you actually mic the journals or just pop new bearings in it? On the first start did you prime the oil galleries before peri the engine fire? You're supposed to pull the plugs and crank with no spark or fuel until the oil pressure light goes out, takes about 20 seconds. Oil pumps almost never go bad on these, but the screws on the backing plate can get loose and allow the backing plate to separate from the housing. This is fairly obvious if you have the pump off. Either way, if brand new bearings are making noise you probably need to pull it apart and replace them again.

AKA "Virgin switch". Very few Subaru owners have NOT been foiled by that switch. Glad you figured it out!

Got a model number for the amp? Most amps will not let you use hi-level and RCA inputs at the same time. I'd actually be surprised if that amp even has hi-level inputs.