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Fairtax4me

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Everything posted by Fairtax4me

  1. Blow-n-go is a breathalyzer. I've worked on a few vehicles with them. Mechanics can get service access codes that last for an hour so the car can be started and test driven before and after repair, but for the vehicle owner it's not so easy. If the timing is definitely right then either the cam or Crank sensor could have been damaged when the belt broke. Try checking it for codes maybe. If you have a u-pull junkyard nearby those are usually easy to get and fairly easy to swap just to test.
  2. Check your timing marks again. Pic is from this post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/97139-99-legacy-outback-25-jumped-timing-still-need-advice/ If you tried to start it a couple times with the timing off its possible it just flooded. Try cranking it with the gas pedal on the floor for 10 seconds or so to clear the cylinders of fuel.
  3. I like ordering through SPFY if I can't get a decent price through my local dealer. Last thing I got was a driveshaft that the local dealer quoted me over $700. Same thing from SPFY was $475 and they shipped it free. They usually have some kind of free shipping deal if you spend X amount.
  4. You'll need to replace the joint and bushings at the front end of the shift rod. Replacing the joint is kind of a pain since its held to the transmission selector shaft with a roll-pin that's very tight and usually rusty. Once the roll pin is knocked out with a punch the joint has to be wiggled off the end of the selector shaft, also usually rusty. Soak the whole thing in PB or some other penetrating oil to help loosen it up. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_20/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/ link for reference. The joint you need is # 6, and should include the two small bushings #5. PN: 35047AC030 You may also need to replace # 17 which is the large round bushing that secures the lower stay rod to the transmission, and # 21 which holds up the back end of the stay rod. Google search for Subaru shifter bushing and you'll find plenty of aftermarket replacements for those. Subaru OE replacements are still available but are not exactly cheap. Pretty sure I paid over $40 for the big round bushing last time I needed one. If the center hold of that big bushing isn't ripped/stretched out, you can remove it and wrap it with a couple layers of gorilla tape to tighten it up some in the stay rod.
  5. Sounds like how they would say it around here. Lots of good info in there! Will certainly be saving that one! Thanks for posting!
  6. Can you post a picture of the broken ring? Is there any evidence outside or inside the ring of something hitting it? Where did you get the seals?
  7. Unless the Ujoints are totally locked up theyre probably fine. The Ujoints angles on Subarus are less than 2° so they barely move during operation. Wheel bearings fail all the time. U joints, not often.
  8. The upper stuff in the container is gasoline. The lower stuff... ? Really not sure. Ethanol shouldn't separate from gasoline as far as I know. But if it burns with no smoke then it's almost certainly something alcohol based. Is E85 available in your area? As for the electrical... Did you try unplugging the alternator?
  9. That's hard to hear. Unfortunately there are some unscrupulous "mechanics" out there. You can usually get a judgement, though that doesn't mean you'll get paid or get your car fixed. (at least not right away) This is a case where probably the only thing you can do to cut your losses would be to put a junkyard engine in the car then sell it.
  10. You're not getting current to the field coil to excite the magnetic field to start charging. That's what the charge lamp circuit does. Iirc there are two wires going into the plug on the alternator, both should have 12v on them with the key On. One goes to the fuse box under the hood, the other goes to the charge lamp. If your charge lamp isn't working then focus on that wire first, replace the bulb or remove it and test it in another socket even if it looks fine. Make sure 12v is reaching the bulb. If you have 12v at the bulb, there's a broken wire or bad connection somewhere between the cluster and the alternator.
  11. Pretty sure the 30th edition came with a GT bumper, so GT fog lights should fit. Just knock out the plastic covers.
  12. Did you leave the cap open on the MC while bleeding? I've found on some cars you have to leave the cap open to get them to bleed properly.
  13. There is a goofy issue with the early 90s cars if the voltage regulator in the alrernator fails it will ground or back feed somehow and cause a no start problem. Unplug the alternator and see if it starts. If it does, the alternator is bad. Your best bet for a good alternator is a junkyard Subaru alternator. If you don't have one nearby try asking in the classifieds here. Worst case, find a rebuild shop and have your original rebuilt.
  14. Double check your battery and make sure you have at least 12.4v with the key On and when Turning to the Crank position. The starters on these are known to have problems when they get old. The contacts inside the solenoid wear out and don't make a good connection when the solenoid kicks. Usually you still hear the solenoid Click when turning the key but not always. Check for any blown fuses. Also check the fusible link in the underhood fuse box. It looks like a wire looped over with a black insulation on it. If that looks like it's burnt remove it and tug on the ends to see if it's burned through.
  15. So the other person on the phone hears the noise, but you don't hear anything? Do you still have the factory radio or is it aftermarket? If it's aftermarket is the reciever/microphone wiring run anywhere near the wiring for the headlamp switch?
  16. If you had to pry the doors open they were probably stuck to the weather seal and pulled the gasket out of the track it fits in. They're sometimes tricky to get back into position properly. I've found that it helps a ton to apply a silicone weather seal conditioner in winter to keep the Windows from sticking to the seals.
  17. Yeah, working with frozen fingers and toes sucks. Glad to hear you got it back together and running!
  18. Need to find out for sure if it's not getting spark or fuel when this happens. After cranking for about ten seconds smell the exhaust pipe for gas. If it has a strong gas smell then there's a good chance you're getting fuel but no spark. Also even if the Check engine light isn't on, get it scanned for codes. An intermittent failure of a crank or camshaft sensor should store a code even if the light doesn't stay on the next time it is started.
  19. When a parts listing says "drive belt" it's referring to the accessory drive belt (it drives the accessories on the engine). Accessories include alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor, water pump, etc. A serpentine belt is the style of belt. The other major belt style being a V belt (has a V shape) which is generally used to drive only one accessory. Vehicles that use v belt with several accessories will have 3 or 4 v belts. A serpentine belt is wider and flat and is generally used to drive multiple accessories with the same belt. It snakes it's way around multiple pulleys, hence the moniker. Many Japanese vehicles use serpentine style belts to drive only one or two accessories. So on your Subaru you'll have one belt for the alternator and power steering, and another belt for the Ac compressor. Timing belts are a whole different style of belt. You'll never see a timing belt refered to as a "drive" belt.
  20. There should be a backlight in the switch that illuminates it so you can see the switch. If you push it, do any of the VDC lights on the cluster turn on to indicate that the system is off?
  21. Glad you got it fixed, and that it was something simple! Those connectors can be a bear to get clicked all the way. I usually squirt some dielectric grease in there and put some on the little weather seal that's on there too. Helps it squeeze back together easier and prevents corrosion later.
  22. If you have voltage on the center wire to the coil then it's just not being told when to fire. ECU commands the igniter, and the igniter grounds the coil to make it spark. Igniter has already been swapped? Used part? Did it come from another running vehicle that you could try your igniter in? Coils don't fail often but you could try swapping in a spare if you have one. Check any and all fuses for the ECU. Then check grounds for the ECU. The ECU grounds to the intake manifold on the engine, either right on top of the manifold next to the coil, or off on the back bottom corner of the #4 runner right on the flange where it meets the cylinder head. Hard to see, but check that make sure it's tight. The large connectors on the bellhousing, there are 4 ground wires on the bottom row of the largest connector. Make sure the pins inside that connector are all clean and the connector halves are clicked together all the way.
  23. Next I would check the large connectors on the bell housing. Make sure they're plugged in tight. Then check the yellow wire at the coil and see if you're getting 12v to the coil. If you're not getting 12v at the coil then you probably won't have voltage going to the ECU or the fuel pump relay. The same fuse in the box under the hood supplies power to all 3 IIRC.
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