Fairtax4me

It looks like it might be fouled anyway. If the ash looking stuff on the tip is yellow-ish its silicone fouled and should just be replaced anyway. I wouldn't risk ruining the new cat with it, the few threads that are left may be weakened enough that they could strip off and the sensor blows out of the cat.

Could be bad temp sensor but you would have starting problems when warm. Could be the IAC valve. I've also heard of some trouble with the throttle bodies on certain years getting hung up because of carbon and crud between the butterfly and bore.

I'm guessing you'll want a 4 channel (one for each speaker). Can't really recommend a particular brand, haven't dealt with any of them personally.

You need one of these: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i331_line-out-converters.html How well it will play with the other HU I'm not sure. I would think you could just Y the two together right before the amp, just make sure both aren't trying to play at the same time.

Door switches are usually one wire. Did he insulate the spade plugs after unhooking them or just let them dangle? It's JUST the dash light? Dome light is off when set to the "door" position?

Certainly doable but you're talking about swapping A LOT of stuff to make it happen. Transmission, driveshaft, rear diff and mounting cradle, rear knuckles, rear axles, rear cross member, fuel tank. Possibly some exhaust parts. Pretty sure all the extra holes are there to mount the extra stuff but its all had 18 years to rust to its hearts content. Not sure if rust is a major issue in your part of the world, here in the US its enough to make an undertaking like this nearly impossible. Much easier to buy a broken AWD car and fix it than to swap a whole drivetrain.

The fuel tables on the MAF based cars are technically hard programmed as well. They all start out the same and the ECU uses MAP and/or MAF readings to determine air density and go from there. How do you suppose vehicles that normally travel above 3,000 ft altitude handle the change in air density there? Pretty sure ECU has enough "wiggle room" to adjust for such a small change in displacement.

I always thought they were supposed to look the same as the green connectors, only black instead of green, but I could be mistaken. Try unplugging the black connector and see what happens.

New knock sensor is cheap on eBay (less than $20 usually) and easy to replace. P0440 evap system code can be caused by a loose fuel cap, or sometimes because the fuel filler tube has rusted out and has pinholes all in it.

The only thing we can tell from that pic is that car is Rusty! Good chance the knock sensor is bad because the case will split and the sensor corrodes inside. Looks like it has a 2.5 ignition coil, also still has the EGR.

Double check the hoses that attach to the intake tube. Other hoses that could make small leaks shouldn't make the engine stall unless you left all of them unhooked, but they shouldn't be overlooked. If you get no love unhook the battery negative for a few minutes. Reconnect and start the engine, but DO NOT use the gas pedal to keep it running. If it stalls restart it and let it figure itself out.

Limited more than likely has the 2.5. Easy to find out. Look under the hood, straight down at the top of the block behind the alternator there is a casting that either says EJ22 or EJ25. Sounds like the makings of a bad knock sensor. Search for my Knock Sensor 101 thread for tips on inspection and replacement. The plot thickens! Take the car to your local auto parts store and have them scan the codes for the CEL. Write down the codes and post them here.

It's the wagon version of my 95 sedan! Except its an automagic, and probably AWD. But it's red! Ticking after starting could be lifters, they are hydraulic in that engine and can not be adjusted. Pull the oil pump and check the screws on the backing plate. Had three screws that were about 3-4 turns loose on mine. Also pull the valve covers and check the bolts that hold the rocker assemblies on the heads. After that, some fresh oil and filter and a half quart of MMO should fix the tickin right up.

14 Foz Fan right here. Haven't driven one but I love the way they look outside and in. I've driven the CVT before, and while it is an entirely different feel, I think it will make much better use of the Turbo power in the XT. Think about it, a constant jet engine whine from standstill to whatever speed your heart desires! Power brake and get uninterrupted boost for that whole quarter mile! I don't see the point of having the off-road features on the XT model, I think they should have stuck those goodies in with another trim package geared entirely toward off road (along with some fatter tires and more lift), but the paddle shifters will be necessary to help with speed control when off-road. Something the X model will miss out on.

Any way you can compare pins with the original sensor? Was the original tested with an ohmmeter?

I can't find that DTC in any of the FSM I have, but I'm thinking the ECU must monitor the pressure sensor on the system. It's usually mounted to the top of the drier canister. Check it with an ohmmeter to see if its open or closed. If the sensor is open, jump the pins in the connector. If the sensor is closed, just leave it unplugged. Reset the codes and see if that works. The switch may have 4 contacts. Normally there is 12v in, and the out goes to the compressor relay. But if the ECU is using it to monitor the system there will be an extra set of contacts in the switch for the ECU. Just turn the key ON and check each pin in the connector for 5v. Check the other three pins for ground to chassis. Mark those two pins on the switch and check for open/closed.

Flare fittings will be fine as long as you can flare them properly. Dropping the tank sounds like it's out of the question because of the rust. Just run some hard lines above the floor pan under the seat and drop them through a hole drilled in the access cover. Pressure hose it from there. Shouldn't have to mess with the vent line unless you think it's rusted out too. IIRC the vent line hooks to the tank somewhere in the middle where you can't get to it without dropping the tank.

Before ordering sensors check the shape of the connectors on your current sensors and match the shape to the replacement sensors. Pay close attention because the differences can be hard to spot right away. The different sensors you're seeing can be either plain O2 sensors or A/F Ratio sensors, (usually CA emission spec.) similar in shape and appearance, but they work totally differently. If your car needs an AFR sensor and you splice in a regular O2 sensor it will toss your fuel economy out the window. So check carefully to find out which type of sensor you need first.

The Clutch has absolutely nothing to do with the shifter so if someone said that they have no clue what they're talking about.

It common for the BPT to go bad. Not sure if cleaning is possible, there is a diaphragm inside that controls the opening of the valve based on intake vacuum. The diaphragm can rupture and prevent vacuum from passing through the BPT. If it don't work it just gets replaced.

Run for a few seconds the stall is almost always an air leak in the intake tube between the MAF sensor and throttle body. Make sure the clamps are tight at each end. Make sure both breather hoses are attached at the valve covers and to the bottom of the intake tube behind the TB. There's a tube to the PCV valve there too. And check that the big tube to the IAC is attached at both ends. No start could be the contacts in the starter, but check that the positive cable is tight on the starter, also check the ground lug where it is bolted to the engine right by the starter. Also make sure the solenoid wire is attached.

Then there should be evidence on the pads and rotors of something making metal to metal contact. I see a wear line that stops well short of the ridge in the center, and no grooves on the ridge to indicate that the pads were making contact with the rotor. The noise was most likely caused by the material of the pads. As they get hot the material emits gasses that can cause the pad to lose contact with the rotor momentarily and "skip" along the surface. It can lead to squealing, or groaning similar to the brakes on a large truck (though on a much smaller scale since your brakes are less than 1/4 the size of those on a big rig). Mix the right pad material with the right rotors and you can end up with some pretty interesting sounds. Of course you can. You can tell by the color, by the scaling on the edges, and by the way the original rotors cleaned up. The braking surface is "self cleaning" so by itself it doesn't really tell you anything unless you mic it occasionally to determine average wear. But Id be willing to bet if you did, the aftermarket rotors would be wearing at a faster rate than the originals. The rust in the hub of the rotor, and in the vanes in between the discs tells all of the story.

Some of those are tied into the instrument panel dimmer. Try adjusting the dimmer and see if it gets brighter.

That slightly raised area shouldn't cause any issues unless it was actually making contact with the brake caliper or bracket. I don't see any markings or evidence of rubbing. The quality of the steel used to make the rotors can make a big difference. Just by looking at the rust on the aftermarket rotor compared to the Original, you can tell the aftermarket is of lower quality steel. Low quality brake pads can cause noise as well.

Front seats will but you may need to swap belt buckles. Back seats I'm not sure of. Measure the overall width, and measure and compare widths of the mounting points. Or just pop out your rear seats for a test fit. Only takes a few minutes.