Fairtax4me

The power locks are tied into the operation of the drivers door lock. Flip the lock lever or use the key in the drivers door and all of the other doors lock/unlock with it. This was a standard feature on the early second generation (95-97 I think) Legacy. I don't think the Subaru remotes ever had one button, so its possible one of the previous owners installed an aftermarket keyles entry/alarm system. Look under the dash for anything that looks aftermarket. The drivers side usualy hanthe easiest access to power source, ao aftermarket systems usually end up there zip tied to other parts. The factory keyless entry system has a small black button for programming wrapped up in some tape on one of the wire harnesses. And I think the module is tucked under there somewhere but I'm pretty sure it's bolted on, unless it was a dealer install.

Yes, the leak can be anywhere between the cylinder head flange and the rear sensor.

Parts markup. Probably charged $250 for the alt and $175-$200 for the battery. Hour and a half labor, shop costs, and tax make up the rest.

Pretty sure that vent valve is built into the filler neck. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_47/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_piping/illustration_6/ The dirt is from your tires flinging water, dust, sand, mud, etc all around the wheel well while driving.

A "boot". If you ripped it down the skinny part that goes around the wire just wrap tape around it to hold it in place. If its the bubble part don't worry about it as long as it covers the terminal on the alternator.

If the cats aren't getting hot enough it's because the exhaust gas mixture is too lean, or the heat shielding on the Y pipe and cats is gone. None of that has anything to do with the rear oxygen sensor. The rear sensor is just a check sensor, it does not affect air/fuel ratio. You can unplug and remove the rear sensor and the car will run exactly the same. Some reading material on how catalytic converters work: http://autoshop101.com/forms/h64.pdf On page 5 it talks about the ideal signal from the front oxygen sensor and how that signal is altered when the sensor is fouled or gets old. It becomes "sluggish" or "lazy" because the voltage signal does not swing back and forth as it should. In comparison to the front sensor, the rear O2 sensor signal should normally swing very slowly, and stay near the middle voltage range of the sensor, about .45v. This indicates a steady amount of oxygen in the exhaust, which would show that the cats are working normally. Spending $4600 on a car that's worth $4600 is hardly the best investment. I find it hard to believe that the cats are clogged after only 75k miles, but they are aftermarket parts so who knows. Checking for clogged cats is very simple, you just look inside them. But that usually means cutting off rusty bolts and trying to get the rusty flanges clean and flat enough to seal again so they won't leak. A leak in the exhaust at one of the flanges will allow air into the exhaust stream and set the same p0420 code.

Wrapped with electrical tape is fine. That's a common issue with the insulation right on the end of the charge lead. As long as its wrapped with a few layers of good electrical tape it's good to go.

I would try Johns advice first and just see if the harness plugs match. You may be able to swap harnesses and have everything work.

Sorry I was looking at online pricing of the alternator at 1stsubaruparts.com. Retail list price is $299, but you can often get dealers to match online pricing just by asking. A low state of barge will kill a lead acid battery if left that way for a prolonged period of time or if it is repeatedly discharged to a very low state. Right now the battery is discharged because it was being used as the source of power to run all of the electrical parts of the car. Normally this is the alternators job. The battery is only used for starting the engine. Once the engine is running the alternator provides power to run anything electrical, and it replenishes the charge of the battery. Most of the time the battery is sitting fully charged in an "idle" state, meaning it is neither being charged or discharged. When the alternator stops producing electricity the battery light turns on, and the battery becomes the supplier of power to the electrical system. The electrical draw from the various lights and electronics on the car discharge the battery. As soon as possible you should put the battery on a battery charger at a low charge rate for approximately 12 hours to fully recharge the battery. Using a fast charger (like what auto parts stores use) produces a surface charge of the battery where the voltage may be correct, but it will discharge much faster when put under load (starting the engine) because the battery has not had sufficient time to accept a full charge. Using the new alternator to recharge a heavily discharged battery may cause damage to the alternator and shorten is service life.

My best guess would be physical damage or corrosion damage to the output post that was not repaired when the alternator was rebuilt. One of the reasons I avoid parts store rebuilds like the one you posted the link to. It's cheap for a reason. The places the rebuild them replace only what is absolutely necessary, and often don't even do that. They clean the unit, test it, and if it meets their lackluster standards for operation, spray a coat of silver paint on and call it "remanufactured". They often fail in less than a year, I've had some rebuilt parts that lasted only a few days. A Subaru remanufactured alternator can be had from a dealer for around $225. Maybe it's more than you want to spend right now, but do you really want to be stranded on the side of the road again to save a few $$?

I don't see anything wrong with the cable. I was going to ask for pics of the alternator since it looked to me like the terminal on the alternator melted off. Certainly looks that way from the pics you posted. Time for a new alternator. Did the shop that did the work put a warranty on it? Alternator only takes 20 minutes to change on these. You could replace it with a used one yourself and save some $$. I avoid parts store rebuilds like the plague because of experiences with repeat failures and damaged parts right out of the box.

Auto trans with no reverse is the first sign of total failure. The forward gears will stop working shortly. A total rebuild is the only good option for that one. Easier to just replace it with a good used one. Which car are you putting a trans into? The 90 or the 95? LegacyCentral.org is dedicated to first gen Legacys and may have specific info about compatible transmissions. Also check Car-part.com for used transmissions nearby.

Wiring and electrical differences would be the major holdup. In 95 Subaru switched to OBD2 and all of the engine and trans electronic control system had to change. Not sure how much actually changed with the wiring inside the transmission, but body-side there are differences. Final drive ratio is another concern.

Exactly which lights are on? Marker lights on the doors? Dome light (overhead)? The red "door" light in the dash? Is the dash light "smart" indicating exactly which door is open, or does it just a picture of all 4 doors? Is it a wagon or sedan?

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2004.html All the specs for 04. Illuminated parts include dashboard instrument cluster, stereo, and HVAC controls, trim ring around the ignition key cylinder, and the power window switches in the drivers door. I have never heard of or seen illuminated headlamp, turn signal, or wiper stalk switches on a Subaru. Some of the older models had push button headlamp and wiper switches next to the instrument cluster which were backlit similar to the fog light and defroster switches in the Forester. Is all of the backlighting out? Or perhaps the lighting in the cruise, defrost, and fog light switches? That's fairly common on some of the mid and late 90s Subarus. Not sure if its common for the Forester as well.

Yes, lots of heat on those capilers. I mean... Caliparries... Hope that fixed it!

Sounds like a faulty or incorrect sensor. Lots of temp sensors out there and the supplier for that part may have the listing incorrect or the manufacturer has the wrong specifications for the pinout. You may be able to swap pins around and make it work, but that may lead to complications in the future. I'd definitely recommend an OE sensor and send the faulty one back. Where was the faulty sensor purchased? What brand was it?

Ok, so you have a sensor that is electrically closed (not shorted or open) which means it still has the proper resistance so the ABSCM knows the sensor is still connected. What it's not getting is a signal that the wheel is spinning, and that is usually caused by metal particles stuck to the sensor or dirt and metal particles stuck in the reluctor wheel that the sensor reads. The wheel bearing on your car has a magnetic ring built into the case rather than the old style reluctor wheel, so it works a bit differently, but the principle is the same. As the wheel spins small magnetic pulses are generated as the magnetized areas on the encoder ring on the bearing pass by the tip of the sensor. If dirt grease or metal particles get stuck to the tip of the sensor it interferes with the magnetic field and can cause the pulse to be erratic or block it altogether. It's fairly easy to remove and clean off the tip of the sensor. One bolt holds the sensor to the top of the knuckle housing. It's worth taking a look at the sensor yourself. The shops may just be trying to sell you a wheel bearing. Cleaning the face of the encoder is a bit more involved but still doable. Rear wheel bearings on that body style are a bearing and hub unit which is easily removed from the car, just 4 bolts hold it onto the rear trailing arm. To try cleaning the encoder ring you can just remove the axle nut and push the axle cup away from the bearing enough to slip a rag in and wipe around the back side of the bearing where the ring is located. If its not easily accessible the bearing can be removed from the trailing arm in order to be cleaned.

Should bolt up just fine. All EJ engines have the same shape bellhousing. Some have 8 bolts, some use only 4, but the bolts still line up. Should only be 4 on that trans. Not sure if the 6 speed that early used a hydraulic or cable clutch, but that should be easy to figure out. You may need a 4.11 rear diff to match ratios, but those are easy to find. Any Legacy Outback with a manual 96-99 will have the 4.11.

Glad to hear it was just the rear diff. Hopefully the binding symptoms will not return.

Not hard to imagine that severe torque bind for such a prolonged period of time has caused the failure or excessive wear of the rear differential and ring and pinion gears. The ring and pinion gears have the job of transferring driving force from the driveshaft to the differential carrier, but those driving forces work both ways. If the drivetrain is binding the stresses on the ring and pinion gears increase exponentially. Really the part that is LEAST affected by torque bind is the transmission. The differentials, driveshaft, and half shafts bear almost all of the brunt from torque bind. I would also have to question the condition of the front differential at this point, since torque bind will also cause accelerated wear of the front ring and pinion gears, and differential gears as well.

I'm not sure of the phase 2 2.2 engines, but I know the SOHC 2.5 from that era leaves something to be desired when it comes to low end torque. It does make more overall torque, but it has to run up to about 4,000-4,500 rpm to get there. The 2.2 makes its torque at a lower RPM range, which may suit you better for towing and hill climbing. I would also check into a set of reground camshafts from Delta, to help bring the torque band lower. These make a noticeable improvement in the phase 1 2.2, I'm sure they would make a difference in a phase 2 2.5 or 2.2 as well.

Agreed. Either of these can leak oil near the number one spark plug hole and fill it with oil.

Agreed. Replace the PCV valve. I would also start running a "High Milage" engine oil, and change it frequently. If oil changes have been neglected the oil control rings on the pistons could be sludged up and stuck, which will allow oil past the rings and into the combustion chamber where it burns. There are some additives you can use to help speed up the breakdown of varnishes and sludge/crud in the engine. Marvels Mystery Oil is a favorite here in the States, as well as Seafoam. Add about 1/3 to 1/2 bottle of either to the oil and drive 100-150 miles, then change the oil and filter.

Kinda need to know the year of your car, even though the procedure may be the same, the code definitions can change, and so can the reset procedure. You cannot reset ABS codes with an OBD2 scanner, autozone or the like will be of no help. Unhooking the battery for a short time (maybe 10 minutes) may reset the codes. There may also be a specific procedure to reset the codes, but we would have to know model and year first.