Fairtax4me

02 WRX seats should fit into a 90-99 legacy no problem. Just Swap the seat belt buckle. The rails are the same, all of the mounting holes are the same. Rails can be unbolted and swapped if need be, but should not be necessary. The only hangup would be tryin to use powered rails on a non-power seat, or vice versa. But where the seats mount to the floor is the same for both powered or non.

Did you try looking in Outback and GT models? Honestly I don't know why you're looking for a master cylinder in a junkyard, they're only $35-$40 from a parts store. Might not come with the reservoir but that's easy to swap.

The older IAC had a thermostatic valve which is dependent on coolant temp for proper opening. However, I've read about plenty of people ditching the hoses altogether and not having any problems. Still, those hoses are a royal pita to replace. You can get them through Subaru for about $10 each. Some parts stores carry a Dayco replacement that will work as well, but they are difficult to find. At least it was around here. Three hoses, one from the bypass pipe to the throttle body, one from the throttle body to the IAC, and one from the IAC to the crossover pipe under the manifold. The crossover to IAC, and bypass to TB hose are the same part number, so order two of those if you plan to replace all 3. It is just barely possible to replace all three without pulling the manifold if you remove the IAC.

Proper cooling system function is more important than a lower t-stat temp. It's also very important to use the OE style thermostat since it is more able to handle quick temperature changes. Proper running temp for these engines is about 200°, so even at 190 you're still below the normal temp for a road driven car. Driving into water isn't going to bother the engine one bit as long as the bypass route of the cooling system is flowing properly. The bypass comes from the water crossover, through the heater core(on a stock setup), then back to the water pump on the back side (spring side) of the thermostat. The bypass route is there to help keep the thermostat open in cold temperatures or if there is a sudden change in inflowing coolant temp. (Such as driving into water) It does this by mixing hot coolant from the bypass with cooler coolant from the radiator right on top of the thermostat. This will allow for a gradual change in thermostat opening, rather than going from completely open to completely closed. A benefit of using an OE style thermostat is that the larger mass of the OE stat holds heat longer and does not react as quickly to changes in coolant temp that may cause a cheap aftermarket stat to close and stay closed. I'd stick wih the OE temp setting, and OE design. Just make sure that coolant bypass is connected and free flowing. (Heater core not plugged)

Yes they are the same. Or at least, they all work the same way. The older sensors were larger and are a tight fit on 99 and newer trans, but still usable. The new sensors are slightly smaller, but work the same way. All they do is create pulses as the sensor turns. 8 pulses per revolution of the sensor.

The strainer on the pump almost never clogs unless someone put sand in your tank. I'd check fuel pressure first before chasing fuel pump issues. The new style pumps have a built in filter which is not easily replaced, nor is there any after market parts support for them yet, so probably impossible to find. Same goes for the strainer.

Might as well pull the code first just to be sure. If it sat for a long time it's possible there is corrosion in the connector for the control module, or at some other wire harness plug between the module and trans. I would check those before taking the trans apart.

Like I said, drive another car that is THE SAME as yours and see if that car does the same thing. If that car does Not behave the same way, then you have a legitimate comparison to prove that it is not normal behavior. If it is the same, and its something you just can't deal with otherwise and are unhappy with the car, its at least worth a shot to try to get the dealer to take the car back, or switch for another car. Maybe a Forester would suit your needs if the Impreza was too small. If they really want to keep you happy as a customer they'll do it.

Test drive another car (same as yours) on the same roads where you notice it wandering and see how the other car reacts. Then drive another DIFFERENT car the same route and see how it reacts. If either of those reacts differently, get the service manager to drive the same road in that car, and then again in your car. If you push the issue enough they will do something to fix the problem, assuming there is one. It could, unfortunately, just be the way the car is. In which case, if you're really unhappy with it, complain to the sales manager to take the car back. Get the SOA regional manager involved if you have to. Don't let them give you the "it's been driven its not worth as much now". Used Subarus a year old with 10k or even 20k miles on them sell for only a grand or two less than brand new ones. Plenty of brand new cars sell with 600-1000 miles on them, sometimes more.

How many miles on the car? Which way does it drift? Left? Right? Both? If both does it pull to one side more often than the other? Does road crown have any effect? Does switching sides of the crown have any effect? Most cars are aligned in such a way to counter-act road crown but the crown is not always the same, so the car may pull slightly one way or the other on some roads. Tires can also be an issue. Factory tires are usually crap. They're usually very soft and wear quickly, sometimes unevenly. The soft compound can cause them to be "squirmy" which can lead to a wandering feeling when driving. Tire air pressure has a similar effect. You might consider bumping up pressure to 2 or 3 psi above the recommended pressure to see if that has any effect on the issue. Also if you regularly carry passengers or cargo in the trunk you should increase rear tire pressure by 2-3 psi.

The key should be the same as the one for the other doors. If its not, once you get the door open, pop the lock barrel out and take it to a local locksmith. It can be re-keyed for about $10-15. I seem to remember there being a small pop-out near the bottom center of the hatch door panel with a lever behind it to pop the latch. Pry off the pop-out and use a screwdriver to flip the lever. I could be thinking of a different car though.

Double check anything you unplugged during the work. Front O2 sensor plug is easy to leave unhooked after you put the exhaust back on.

Legacy or Forester seats are no better. They all wear out the same way. Every Subaru I find in the junkyard the first thing I check is the seats, and they're always worn on the outer bolster.

All the seats from that era had the same problem. The foam would wear out and the support frame cuts through it. I swapped a set of "mouse fur" seats out of a 91 or 92 legacy into my 96. They're height adjustable, lumbar support, and very comfortable, and much more robust. Dunno how many miles were on the original car but the seats are still in great shape after almost 2 years in my car. My only qualm is they don't seem to slide back as far as the original seats. So my back pain (from the original seats) has transferred to my right leg and knee. Had to cut off the auto seatbelt guide, and swap the seat belt buckles to the original ones from my car. Other than that they bolted right in.

If all three devices are in the car at the same time you can run into issues like this because usually only one will communicate at a time. At least that's how it was on some of the earlier Bluetooth setups that I've used. There should be a way to select which device you want to use currently, and you may find that you have to switch back and forth from device to device when you want to use a different one. There should also be instructions in the owners manual on the limitations of the Bluetooth system, and how to program and select between devices. Your salesperson should also have some idea of how to help, so if all else fails give them a call and drop by to have them help.

If You're just trying to reprogram a factory remote. There should be instructions for how to do that in the owners manual. I'm not aware of any factory option for remote start. That I think would be an aftermarket add-on, in which case you would have to find instructions for that brand and model of remote start system.

NPR racing rings are often recommended by people here who regularly rebuild these engines. Best quality and they won't break the bank. Bearings I think most people get through Subaru. Some searching on google would turn up a few answers I'm sure. Rings and Bearings are something you absolutely do not cheap out on with a turbo build, because of the extra stresses they endure.

Ill second that. Replace both input shaft bearings while its apart. The front one is cheap and easy, no reason not to. The rear one is the noise maker, and will be the end of the trans when it goes bad. I have video of one that was so wrecked the outer bearing race was actually cracked.

You have to take it to someone who knows these engines. The H6 has something like 100 bolts just holding the timing cover on. Most mechanics would lose track of that many bolts.

Did you bypass the solenoid? I forgot to mention that. The solenoid may be closed preventing vacuum from reaching the sensor. Hook the vacuum line from the engine directly to the sensor. Also are you sure you're checking the correct pin? Center pin is signal, ground meter to the engine block. Do not check across pins. You should also check ground. Set on Dc volt check voltage on the far right pin, should be the red and yellow wire. Ground meter to the block. Should be less than .1v. Any more and you have a ground issue between sensor and ECU.

Same trans was used in the Forester Legacy and Impreza, just have to make sure you get one with the right final drive ratio. Forester manual should be 4.11. They made some changes to the bell housing bolt pattern in 99 so you probably want to look for something around that year or a little newer. An earlier transmission will work as well but there were differences in the shift selector and clutch release lever, which can be swapped from one to the other, just takes a couple minutes. Biggest thing is just make absolutely sure to match the final drive ratio or you'll end up with major problems.

Is the crankshaft pulley bolt loose? Is the pulley wobbling as the engine is running? I've heard of after market tensioners being bad right out of the box. It could also be one of the idler bearings knocking around. Or the camshaft sprocket bolt has come loose and the sprocket is wobbling around. Its easy enough to pull the timing covers and check.

Two classics! Nice! I always wondered how one of these would fare with a Chevy small block under the hood...

MAP solenoid is to switch the MAP source reading between engine vacuum and atmospheric pressure. ECU uses the same sensor for double duty. On some cars it also uses the same sensor to read Evap system pressure. If vacuum lines don't help, check the sensor output with the engine running. Back probe the center pin on the MAP plug and compare voltage reading at atmosphere (unhook the vacuum line) and engine idle. Ground your meter to the intake manifold, not the frame. Should have around 1.9-2.5V (or very close) at engine idle. And somewhere around 4v with no vacuum.

Not a bad deal, nothing too special about those transmissions. You'll find it quite similar to the ones in your older soobs. Some known issues with the 99s. They changed the way the center differential is built in 99 and there is a snap ring that can come loose and chew up the transfer gears and center diff support gears. It also lets the center diff fall apart. The mainshaft bearings like to go out on the EJ transmissions in general. Lack of fluid changes I think is the general reason, but its also a large bearing which doesn't seem to get enough oil all the time. It's fairly easily replaceable but is labor intensive. Much easier to find a good low mile trans and just drop it in. I'd go for it. Yes that car has the SOHC heads which are much simpler. Also the bottom end was beefed up in 99. The head gaskets are prone to leak, but its an external leak rather than the combustion chamber leaks that the DOHC engines suffered. Find out if the timing belt has ever been replaced. That's a bargaining chip because its a couple $$$ in parts.