Fairtax4me

Check and make sure your crank sensor and cam sensors are plugged in all the way.

Probably the same as the Toyota. I use rubber vacuum plugs to cap off brake lines whenever I do brake work to keep the fluid from dripping out. Did front brake hoses on a BMW 325 last week and lost less than 4oz of fluid between swapping the lines and getting the air out. Pull the bleeders and stick plugs in the holes to keep the fluid from draining. Then there's no bleeding necessary when you put them back.

Use head gaskets to match the heads.

Yeah they'll fit. Are you using a 2.2 or 2.5 block?

Short answer is yes. Match head gaskets to the heads if installing on a 2.2 block. If using a 2.5 block use head gaskets for the turbo 2.5.

Low voltage, a restriction in a fuel line, or contamination of the fuel would be my only guesses. The walbros seem to have a good reputation so it sounds a little odd for that brand to fail. Any other brand besides an OEM I would not put much trust in.

Good chance that's pinging. Give it a tune-up first. NGK Plugs, wires, filters. Etc. Might need a knock sensor, those are cheap on eBay. Beyond that, check for any vacuum leaks. Broken/split hoses attached to the intake tube, and make sure the intake tube is clamped tight at both ends. Any air getting into the intake tube without going through the MAF sensor will cause it to run lean and can cause pinging.

Don't try to extract it or heli-coil it. That's a pointless effort. Drill straight through it with a 3/8" drill bit. Run a grade 8 3/8" bolt all the way through with a nut on the other side. I think I used a 3-1/2" bolt last time I did one. Getting the bolt out is half the battle. You get to hammer the pudge out of it to get the joint out of the knuckle too. Disconnect the sway bar link on that side so you can push the control arm down. Then use the control arm as leverage with a pry bar and hammer down on the control arm to help get the joint out of the knuckle. Pickle fork usually works to get the stud out of the control arm. Sometimes you need to put some heat on the control arm to get the stud loose.

I would ask to see it. A good mechanic can pull a cylinder head off one of these engines in 30 minutes and show you the valves are damaged and the piston is trashed. If he has an inspection camera he doesn't even have to do any work to show you what's wrong. Even if you've been with this mechanic for years, You're talking the difference of a $1,000 repair vs a $4-5,000 engine replacement.

I think you should have made her pay to tow it. That and wait a week or so to get the engine all the way in and running again. Get her to appreciate that freedom of having a car by showing her what it's like to not have it anymore. Make her pay for it and work on it and maybe she gains some respect for the car. Just MHO. Have a merry Christmas! Kick back and watch some football or some of those Christmas classic movies and drink a little holiday cheer!

I suppose that's possible, but I would expect there would be ZERO compression on that cylinder if it is that bad off. A valve typically has to be broken to cause major damage to the piston. Bent valves happen often on these and leave nothing more than small tick marks on top of the piston.

Bent valves very rarely result in major engine damage on these cars. Pull the heads and replace the bent valves. Back together with an all new timing kit and it will be good to go.

Sensor on the trans sends a pulse to the cluster. Sensor in the cluster sends signal to the ECU. There was a common issue with a ground wire in the 99s causing that same problem. Google" 99 Subaru speedometer fix" or something like that and find the repair DIY thread. Give that a try and see if it fixes it.

They should add to that... Don't smoke when you're working on the fuel system. Or use a grinder, or sawzall, or torch... Don't wear metal jewelry when working with electrical systems or servicing/changing a battery. Metal is conductive... And it glows red hot if you bridge the battery posts or short a power wire to ground with it. Don't wear loose fitting clothing at all, but especially when working on a running engine. If you've never had to rip a shirt sleeve off to get your arm unstuck from an engine bay you don't know what fun you're missing!

The sleeve kits are generally easy to install. Some have to be tapped on with a wood block, others have a set screw at the base and you just slide the sleeve on, then tighten the set screw. As per the flywheel. Does the clutch chatter now? If you have no chatter now, just run some sand paper or emery cloth over the friction surface of the flywheel to remove any glazing. If it does chatter, then I would consider replacing the flywheel. The cheaper flywheels are often fine, they just wear a little faster than an original will. You'll also notice with a new flywheel that the starter pinion may make more noise when starting the engine due to having a worn pinion on brand new flywheel teeth. But as I said before, if it doesn't chatter now, don't bother spending the money.

Arcing from the plug wire will leave a carbon track on the post of the coil pack and will cause it to continue arcing even with a new wire. Whenever there is an obviously burned connection like that both the coil and wire need to be replaced to prevent a recurrence of the problem. Recheck the coil post for arcing. Single platinum G power plugs aren't the best for the ignition system design on these cars. Use NGK Laser double platinum or Iridium plugs. Or plain copper or V power copper plugs.

Luk makes good stuff, have used their clutches in some other cars and haven't had any problems with them. The sleeve is used if the input snout on the trans is worn. The snout is aluminum just like the rest of the case, so it wears over time as the TOB slides across it, eventually it wears a groove in the snout that can cause the TOB to hang up or engage crooked and cause clutch chatter. With over 200k miles there's a good chance it could use a sleeve kit.

Apparently I just can't read today... Anyway P0141 is a code for the heater element in the sensor. The heater element has probably burned out. Replace the sensor and should be fine. But as I said before, that won't cause your rough idle. If that car has the big air box on top of the engine make sure the bottom section of the box is clamped together properly. Also make sure the gasket that runs around it is in place and isn't dirty or split anywhere.

What is the code? There are a half dozen different codes for the O2 sensors. The rear sensor won't cause any hesitation or low idle. That is usually a vacuum leak or if it has a MAF sensor could be a dirty MAF or an air leak into the intake tube between the MAF and the throttle body. Also check the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator for fuel.

Sounds like the heater core has a leak. A stop leak product might stop the leak, but it might also clog the heater core which will cause overheating of the engine. Pretty much every Subaru you have to pull the dash out of the car to get to the heater core. Try the Subaru coolant stuff like Texan said. That's the least likely to clog the core. (IMO)

P0136 is for the rear sensor. Check the wiring where it runs down the side of the transmission. More than likely it just needs a new sensor. I've used the Bosch universal sensors for the rear on a few occasions and have had any problems with them. Just have to make sure you match up the wires correctly. The P0440 is usually a rusted out filler tube. Hack the plastic cover off of it and see if it's rusted out at the bottom where it curls under the car. That can be patched with some of that fuel tank patch cement if you sand away some of the rust. It could also be a split vacuum hose on the engine going to the purge valve. Only takes a minute to check those and they're an easy fix. Have also seen the evap purge valve stick open and cause that code. It's under the intake manifold on the passenger side. Pull one of the vacuum hoses off it and see if you can blow air through the valve. If air goes through it it's stuck open or there's some carbon stuck in the valve keeping it from sealing all the way. It can be disassembled and cleaned out if you're careful. New purge valves are over $100 last I checked. They don't fail often so used is a good option.

Are the cooling fans running when it overheats? Low coolant level will lead to overheating, but the fans should turn on if it starts to get hot. Top off the coolant level, replace the radiator cap, and verify that the fans are working. There should be two green plugs with a single wire each under the dash near the steering column. Connect those and turn the key On to put the ECU into test mode. It will cycle the fans on in low, then high speed and off in about 2 second intervals. Make sure both fans work. Turn the key off and disconnect the green plugs to take the ECU out of test mode.

Clutches can howl, whine, squeal, make all sorts of noise when they slip for long enough and get hot. Sounds like it needs a new clutch. The Icy spot theory isn't right because that would cause wheel slip, which would mean the speedometer would go up with rpm, but the car wouldn't go any faster. Increase in rpm with no change in speedometer = slipping clutch. Also, original clutch in my 96 went out in almost the same fashion. Cold night about a week before Christmas. No prior slippage. Driving up a hill in 5th gear and engine speed started going up. Next hill it started slipping in 4th. Barely made it home in 3rd gear.

Manual trans has the hill holder which works with the clutch. If the hill holder cable sticks or the lever on the holder gets stuck it will cause the brakes to drag on the front right and rear left IIRC. Check the hill holder mechanism on the frame rail just below the master cylinder. See if you can move the lever by hand and see if it returns all the way. Spray it with some penetrating oil and then with some lithium grease to get it freed up if it's sticking. It should pull on the cable just a bit. If the valve is hanging up internally you can just remove the cable from it and zip tie the lever all the way back so it won't drag the brakes. Not sure on the ABS light. Won't have anything to do with the hill holder. Would be an overheated wheel speed sensor or bad wheel bearing if the brake was dragging and overheated. There's a way to pull the codes and find out which sensor.

That spare tire well will bend with a good kick. Need something tougher than that. Plus with the winch in there you're going to be dragging the winch cable across the rear hatch striker and the trim plate. Bend that striker and you won't be able to shut the hatch.