Fairtax4me

Check KBB.com and NADA.com to get an idea of trade-in and private party sale values. Honestly 14k sounds a little too good to be true for a 2010 legacy. Check the CarFax and have it checked out by a competent shop before buying. No major mechanical issues with the 2010 as far as I know. The engine and transmission had both been in production for several years prior. The only thig really "new" on the 2010 is the way it looks. And they did upgrade the rear suspension from the previous model that had the weird "ghost walk" issues. If its in good shape (no rust, no accident damage), then it should be a good buy, but get it checked out first.

Thanks for posting that! Ill have to save that section as it is missing from the FSM I have. Glad you found the problem.

Year? Model? Sounds more like the alternator is dieing. Low voltage causes all sorts of problems ECU needs electricity to work, not enough juice and it doesn't work right, starts throwing codes. Have the battery charged and the charging system checked.

You can find one for 97 here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ There is also a good thread here on the site that covers disassembly of the trans. Search for "easy front seal replacement" that should bring it up.

Welcome! Shifter stuck could just be a linkage issue, have you already crawled under it to look? Internal, might be a jammed reverse check mechanism, worst case someone managed to break a shift fork or some other craziness, which would mean splitting the trans case to inspect.

2.5 and 2.2 manifolds have different flanges where they bolt to the heads. Has to be a 2.2 manifold. Usually only $30-$40 at a u-pull-it yard, though some of them try to nickel and dime you for fuel injectors, solenoids, and throttle body. You're not using vacuum on the EGR. Thread a pipe nipple into the port and run a section of emission hose over to the fresh air pipe before the throttle body. The EGR just needs to see airflow for the ECU to think its working. When the valve opens it will just pull fresh air from the intake pipe.

I ordered a Gates 34012 from rockauto a few days ago, mostly out of curiosity because their picture looked very similar to a Subaru OE stat. It's not quite exactly the same as the pictures I can find of the Subaru part, but its so close I think itll work just fine for the $9 and change I paid for it. It bumped the shipping cost up by only $0.50 since it came from the same warehouse as some other parts I ordered. Looks the same as the Stant version to me.

Do any of the other lights in the dash work? Climate control lights? Etc? Does it have an aftermarket radio/cd head unit? If so the bulbs in the cluster may just be burned out. If not, first find the dimmer. Should either be on the headlight stalk or a knob under the cluster on the left side. Make sure its turned up.

It looks like someone broke the mount stud and put a bolt through it. There shouldn't be a giant washer on there, and that second stud looks about 1/2" longer than it needs to be. Not a big deal, but you'll want to see if you can get a wrench on the head of the bolt so you can tighten it. Is that the cause of the vibration problem? Probably not. However, you should check the bolts that hold the cross member to the frame. Good chance those could be loose as well considering whoever repaired that mount left that bolt loose. As for the vibration issue, still sounds like a driveshaft issue, but I suppose it could be an axle problem as well. 270k is a lot of miles for a stock axle and if you're towing with the car they are getting more than normal wear. What happens if you put the FWD fuse in? Does the vibration get worse or go away?

Sounds more like a seized u joint. A bad VC would cause a similar problem though it would be due to mismatch in tires or wheel sizes. The VCD is not hard to swap. It can be done with the trans in the car, just need to remove the tail housing to get access to it.

The ECU works for both Auto and Manual. The harness in the car grounds a pin on the ECU that tells the ECU if its an Auto or Manual so the ECU knows what to look for. You shouldn't need to change anything to make the 95 engine run with the 97 ECU. You will have a CEL for the EGR but that's all. If it won't run its a problem with the engine, timing is off, or crank or cam sensor is bad. Maybe ignition coil is bad. EGR code can be corrected by getting an intake with EGR (get the wire harness too) and running a hose from the EGR valve to the intake tube. Or you can drill out the port in the head and tap threads for the EGR pipe. Drilling and tapping is tricky and can cut into the water jacket in the head if done wrong.

A bent or cracked flex plate will usually make more noise when under load, when in drive or reverse. So this is definitely plausible. I'd pull the engine for this. You really don't even have to get it all the way out, but you'll have so much taken apart just to get the engine and trans separated that you might as well pull the engine anyway. And on the off-chance the flex plate turns out to be fine, the engine will already be out and ready for replacement or rebuild.

Does it click from the starter solenoid at all? Subarus have had some issues with the contacts in the starter solenoid wearing and making poor contact. Usually turning the key a few times will clear them well enough to make contact again and engage the starter. If you're not even getting a click though I think it's likely to be either the Park/Nuetral interlock switch on the transmission, or the starter interlock relay. If it does this again, turn the key ON then shift the trans to Nuetral and try to start the engine.

Have you replaced the o2 sensor since this began?

Get a timing belt kit and re-time it first. Might have got lucky, though that depends how far off the timing really is. How much slack? Timing belts aren't supposed to be exactly tight.

I would guess the other block to be an early 251? I suppose you could test fit the bearings in the journals and lay the crank in place just to see.

Oooh, a name written on it is different. So you have a repeat offender! Have to wonder the reason for replacement of the original.

They all have some paint pen markings on them. Quality control marks or something. Both of the ones I got from the junkyard had paint pen on them while they were in the car. There are so many different numbers and versions its almost impossible to find the exact same one, but the good news is they're mostly interchangeable. I'd just try to find an Outback. MT or AT doesn't really matter. The ECU works for either one and the wire harness in the car determines if the ECU looks for AT or MT credentials.

That sounds about right for atmospheric state. Under vacuum (engine running) I think it should be something like 1.9v. There isn't any reason it should have to be under pressure on a N/A car. Did you check reference with the sensor plugged in? Have you checked ground resistance?

I had some fun with a repeat MAP sensor code, check for proper voltage to the sensor. Should be 5 V with the sensor plugged in. If not there is either a connection issue or the ECU is bad.

Pinouts changed in 98 IIRC from looking up info for my own ECU replacement several months ago. 95, 96-97, and 98-99 all have different pinouts, thus the ECU may not work correctly. Oddly, the plug was still the same, but the pinout was different.

P/O = Previous Owner. If the vacuum diagram is missing you may have a hard time finding the correct diagram. If all else fails you may have to order an emissions hose routing label from Subaru. They will need the VIN to lookup the correct label.

I have the 96 FSM but can't post the page. Its in the Troubleshooting section under brakes, ABS 5.3 type. Section 4-4C, subsection 5, page 7, Control Module I/O Signal. Hopefully that makes it easier to find.

When at proper time the crank arrow will be at 3 o'clock. Cam arrows will be at 1:30. Do not use arrows for timing, too difficult to hold the cams still. Use has marks on cams and the groove on the back of the crank sprocket as pictured above. Hash marks and groove should point straight up for proper timing. If using the white marks on the belt, they will not line up again after rotating the engine. You must use hash marks to determine if timing is off.

I have a working ECU for a 2.5 but its from a 97 so it wouldn't do you any good. However, ECUs are usually only like $35 at a u pull it yard, and since they practically never to bad people leave them in the cars so they're very easy to find. IIRC any 98 or 99 Legacy ECU should work in that car. Obviously you have a higher chance of success with an ECU from a 99 Outback, which should not be too difficult to find.