Fairtax4me

You'll probably end up having to split the trans. Either the sliders on the 4th gear shift fork are worn from someone resting their hand on the shifter, or the input shaft main bearing (directly behind 4th gear) is bad and is letting the input shaft walk back when you try to engage 4th. Or could just be a chewed up 4th synchro either from someone not knowing how to downshift, or forcing it out of gear when there's load on the synchro ring. Lots of options, none are repairable with fancy fluid. Whenever I see fluid come out black I change it with the cheap Walmart 80-90 fluid and run that for a week or so then change it again.

12033AA390 NPR number SWF20067 http://www.npramerica.com/attachement/usappilication/SUBARU.pdf You'll probably have to get in touch with an NPR supplier and special order them. I didn't find any place online selling them outright.

Yeah the security system does that. Disconnect the battery negative, turn the ignition key to the On position then reconnect battery.

Which engine? At that price it probably doesn't come with a water pump and that should usually be changed as well. Beck arnley does often rebrand other parts but I've had good luck with their suspension parts and some others. Haven't tried their timing belt kits. On a pre-96 2.2 the cheap timing kits are usually fine for a 60k change interval. For interference engines you should use a high quality or OE belt and OE brand idlers and tensioner for that longer 105k change interval. Look for bearings made by NSK, NTN, or Koyo. Aisin water pump.

NPR (Nippon Piston Ring) is the prefered brand for most Subaru rebuilders. Standard 2.2 rings will not be the same as the turbo rings, so double check the fitment guide to make sure you order rings for the 2.2T engine.

Compression test should be done with throttle held wide open. All four spark plugs out at same time. Put your foot on the floor and hold it down when cranking. I usually go 5 puffs then stop. Closed throttle the engine will build vacuum in the intake and will show low compression because its struggling to get air in.

Sounds like rod knock. Check the timing tensioner, make sure it isn't flopping around.

I've had those rear bumpers off on a few cars from the early 2000s and there really isn't much bumper to attach a winch to. Weld some reinforcements to the bumper beam if you plan to use that.

Check the coolant level.

Try asking at NASIOC or one of the other Impreza or STI forums. I don't think you need to change the ECU because the AT/MT identification is done by the wire harness, but Im not 100% sure of that on the JDM cars.

Need to squirt some engine oil into the cylinders and see if the compression comes up. Good chance that ECT sensor is bad and it's dumping fuel in and washing the cylinders down. Also, were those compression numbers done with the throttle wide open? Intake in removed? Did you check the intake tube and air filter for a mouse nest or squirrel stashing acorns in there?

Replace the upper and lower hoses if you didn't replace them with the engine. Also a good idea to get a new radiator cap. Most new radiators don't come with a new cap for some reason.

I just attempted to repair similar damage to the Legacy I just bought. The bumper was pushed down so there was almost a 2" gap beneath the rear hatch. The bumper reinforcement was fine. The supports that the bumper bolts to inside the frame were bent. The bolts that hold the bumper on had pulled down the metal around the holes they go through. It took a long steel rod and a sledge hammer and some serious arm swinging to get those things bent back to being flat. The only other thing that may be bent or damaged would be the floor pan in the trunk where the spare tire sits. Or some of the flimsy panels on the outer sides of the frame rails.

Mark-up. Advance auto is infamous for that. There are often price differences between brands due to one brand possibly producing more of a certain part, or having a lower cost for the materials, or more rigorous quality standards. If you compare apples to apples. Same Brand, same part, different store, different price... That's usually nothing but mark-up. Per the OPs original question, I've always had the best luck if I can stick with the same brand as the original part, and I try to find the best price including shipping for that brand. If it has the cone style IAC, getting a used one is kind of a crap-shoot since those tend to fail often. Get one cheap enough and it's worth it if it lasts a year or two. But sometimes they're just as bad or worse than what you have.

So when I said Toyotas are bad about sludge... That is a 2007 FJ 4.0. That kinda darker circle in the center of the oil pan is a mound of asphalt like chunks that's built up about an inch. It blocked off the pickup screen and starved the engine of oil. Glitter is pretty but not in your engine!

It could be as simple as a bad radiator cap. Check the coolant in the radiator after the engine cools down. Sounds like it needs at least a half gallon. If you smell coolant that means you have a leak somewhere. Most common place I would look in cold weather is the clamps on the upper and lower radiator hoses. When it gets cold the clamps need to be tightened up sometimes. Bad Head gaskets are common on that engine, unfortunately. But check everything else first.

Sounds like you blew up axle joint. Check all 4 axles. The manual transmission splits power to the front and rear outputs evenly across the center diff. If an axle breaks, the center diff will spin partially free until the viscous coupler gets warmed up, so it will take more time to get moving as all the power goes to the broken axle.

Get the Factory Service manual for your year engine. That will have all of the specs needed or checking the valves and seats. The biggest thing you're looking for is that the seat and the valve face have flat surfaces where they seal. If the seat is worn to a point or there is a groove in the valve then the seat need to be recut and the valve replaced. Lapping is generally only necessary when replacing a valve. If the valves all have nice flat sealing surfaces then I would not bother with replacing any. You will need to set the lash clearance after reinstalling the valves, and then you'll need to check it again after running the engine for a few weeks.

She can only kill you so many times! Just buy some flowers and surprise her one morning before you sneak the new Subaru into the driveway. Lol My dad just bought a $20k truck and didn't tell his wife about it until he got home with it. At least you're not buying a $20k Subaru!

I've always had good luck with rockauto returns. It's all in how you answer the return questions. You know the part is defective, tell them what the defective part is doing, don't tell them it's doing the same thing as the "old part". Also, cheap parts are cheap parts no matter where you buy them. How long do you really expect a $30 alternator or a $5 tie-rod end to last? Buy quality parts and you'll have less trouble. Often RAs prices on good quality parts are comparable with the local parts store cheapo parts prices.

Recommend plugs for that engine should be platinum and shouldn't need to have the gap adjusted. What plugs did you use? The lean code may be due to a loose vacuum hose or breather/phv hose attached to the air intake tube. Double check everything that was touched or moved when you put the plugs in. Beyond that, depending on mileage, it may possibly need the front O2 sensors replaced.

It's easier to Keep all the springs and retainers with the valves they were on. Use some small plastic cups or old egg cartons to put parts in so you know where each one goes. Makes reassembly much easier and allows you to easily keep track of all the parts.

Sometime in the mid 2000s they changed the way the duty C solenoid works, which was supposed to help increase the life of the transfer clutch pack, but it also means there's a bit of a delay in the AWD engagement. I wanna say that was around 04 though. As I said above, a delay in engagement of the AWD could be for several reasons. If the transmission fluid is old you might try changing that and the external spin-on filter. Be sure to get a real Subaru filter.

There's no VC or center diff in the auto trans. Rear drive power is transferred via a clutch pack in the tail of the transmission. The auto trans has speed sensors for the front and rear outputs and compares those to detect slippage of the front output. If too much slippage occurs the rear drive transfer clutches are given higher fluid pressure by the C duty solenoid to give more drive power to the rear driveshaft. It should also react to throttle input. Heavy throttle should cause the duty C to lock down the transfer clutches and give drive power to the rear driveshaft. With the car on 4 jack stands you should get the rear wheels to spin by giving it throttle. Rev the engine up some and see if the rear wheels engage and spin with the fronts. You may get an ABS or TCS light blinking because often the wheels will be spinning at different speeds and will cause the ABS control module to think the wheel speed sensors are faulty. If rear drive engagement is delayed it could be because of low fluid pressure to the transfer clutch pack or C duty solenoid. Or it could be due to excessive clearance between the discs in the clutch pack. And just for clarification, no action of the duty C solenoid or rear drive will ever affect the front drive components. The front wheels are driven 100% at all times.

So... for those who are interested. This is the very beginning of rod bearing failure. See the copper streak in the center there. That means it has worn through the lead/tin alloy layer and the bearing clearance is going to be larger than it should be. Its not really visible in the pic, but there are a few score marks in this bearing that my fingernail will just barely catch on. Crank looks OK on this one, but will need to split the block to check the others. There was no perceptible play in the rods that I could feel, but popped the cap off of number 3 just to be sure. If I put this one back together the way it is it may last another 10k, but I wouldn't bet on it. And some head gasket shots. Cheapest POS head gaskets I think I've ever seen. These are SINGLE layer metal (it might not actually be steel) coated in what looks/feels like paper. Which cylinder was burning coolant I wonder... The lower picture is the bottom corner that was dripping constantly. That's coolant/oil milkshake in the head bolt hole.