Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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Sad to let a car like that go, but at some point the rust takes over and it's just time to call it quits even if its still mechanically sound. Which Subaru are you getting? -
Yeah there's something going on there. Cross Caster should be within about .5 degrees. I'm not sure a bad bushing would account for 1.5 degrees difference without being visibly distorted. Did the print out show the SAI and included angles? Are they within spec?
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Ive bottomed mine out a few times and hit the heat shields on the Y pipe, no harm yet, but if the Y-pipe is bent it could create more back-pressure depending on the severity. Steel pipes don't usually crack unless there was other stress in the area before the impact or its really rusty. The heat shields can mask leaks but you would have black soot at the ends of the shield if there is a hidden leak.
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Ahh, gotcha! I figured you must have it set up that way for a good reason.
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The whole thing has to be replaced unless you want to do polyurethane inserts or whiteline or other aftermarket. Otherwise its a Subaru only dealer part. How far off is the caster? That is usually adjustable only slightly by moving the bushing in or out in relation to the frame. If its only slightly off I wouldn't worry about it too much. A small amount more positive caster on the right side is normal and counters the effect of road crown.
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How the hell does that work? Your rear tires are driving harder than the fronts when you're in 4wd. The different final drive ratios make it bind constantly. Hope you only use that off-road.
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The rubber front bushings hardly ever go bad, but if they are bad there will be noticeable play with little force. If you cant move them much with a prybar between the frame and control arm they are probably fine. The rear bushings are filled with a silvery/greyish silicone grease which will leak out if they split. its usually pretty obvious if you know that they are fluid filled.
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This pic was supposed to be part of the past post. Guess it didnt make it.
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Right side was leaking worse. Still couldn't actually feel a leak around the manifold though.
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26" Tires will make almost no difference. 28"s may cause you a 2-3 mpg drop but that can be countered with better gearring. 4.11 diffs will make a huge difference in bottom end power with the bigger tires.
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A leak AFTER the cat won't make a difference. The leaks that MAY affet mileage will have to be in front of the front cat. After the front O2 sensor it makes no difference.
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Brake cleaner may damage the MAF element. Use MAF sensor cleaner or electronics cleaner. Last time I had the manifold off of my car I could see tracks on the head where there are small leaks but I can't hear or feel them. I have some new manifold gaskets to install now and thinking my mileage might come up by a few mpgs if I get rid of the leaks.
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Any exhaust leaks before the front O2 sensor? Manifold leaks at the heads or at the front cat flange can cause a lean reading from the front sensor. ECU sees lean voltage so gives more fuel to compensate.
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I've nearly lost that gasket at least half a dozen times. It sticks to the filler tube just until you get the cap screwed off then it pops loose and falls off the side. Drives me crazy. I bet its sitting under your ac compressor or the intake manifold if it didnt fall on the ground.
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Some drag is normal when the AC compressor engages. Can you spin the compressor hub easily by hand?
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Timing belt off a tooth. Idles and runs fine cold until just about the time the temp gauge starts to move, then it starts misfiring. You have good power over 3000 rpm when warm. Misfires at idle and low rpm. Pull the timing covers and you'll likely find its a tooth off. Fuel smell is probably unburned gas because of the misfiring. Also possible it's a rusted out filler tube (very common). The filler tube issue is not related to the timing issue.
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It takes 5 minutes to order an emissions sticker from a Subaru dealer. You can call them on the phone and order, just have the VIN handy. Splice connectors and electrical tape are common wiring repairs at most dealerships even so I'm not surprised a bit about that. If you want it done with heat shrink and solder just ask him to do it that way. I don't see any reason why he shouldn't be able to.
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95 and 96 are rollers with HLA. You need 97-98 for rollers with SLA. Possibly an early 99 would have the same heads. Roller rockers, HLA or SLA, are interchangeable on the same roller cam. Roller cam profiles did not change from 95 to 98. The tappet cam profiles are different to match the tappet rocker shape. You can not mix and match tappet rockers with a roller cam or roller rockers with a tappet cam. Mikaleda, nearly every overhead cam engine design with rocker arms since the mid 90s uses roller rockers. There are designs without rockers like the DOHC EJ25D heads which are tappet style direct mechanical bucket.
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Bad bad bad idea. E85 will not effectively clean any deposits from the combustion chamber. It is a cleaner burning fuel when used in a vehicle designed to be able to use it. But cleaner burning does not mean it will make things clean. Use a bottle of fuel system cleaner or run a tank of premium fuel every now and then if you are concerned with keeping things clean. Ethanol also acts as an oxidizer to steel and can degrade steel fuel lines and the tank. This is why vehicles designed to use E85 have nylon fuel tanks and stainless steel lines and fuel rails.
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Mount should be the same, otherwise it wouldn't bolt to the trans or x-member. If the driveshaft is not perfectly straight it will make a terrible shake above about 20 mph, and you will have a rumble and shaky feeling when trying to accelerate. Make sure the center carrier did not get flipped upside down during installation. That would throw off the u joint angles and cause a serious vibration.
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Unplug the large connectors on the passenger side bellhousing and check for dirty/corroded pins. Spray them out with contact cleaner if there is any crud. Let dry and reconnect. Also check the block surface under the knock sensor for corrosion. The sensors are delicate and if over tightened can be damaged, but that would not cause the code to return unless it was severely over torqued.
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The old 2.2s don't care so much about plug wires. Unless they're the cheapest cheap wires someone could get their hands on, they're probably fine. Plugs should be standard copper though, and make sure they're gapped at .039 - .043". My immediate thought is the timing belt is off a tooth. If the timing belt is old it could have jumped. If it was replaced recently then maybe someone just timed it wrong. Its best to put a whole kit on it with the water pump and all the idlers. A kit costs about $125 on eBay.
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It's very difficult to rotate the inner splines of the center diff unit by hand. The center diff is comprised of several layers of fan-like plates spaced very closely to each other and filled with a heavy silicone based fluid. The fluid allows a certain amount of tension between the plates without making actual contact.
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Have you checked all fuses? Possible it's the igniter, but fuses are easy to check. Remove them and check visually and with an ohmmeter. Checking voltage on each side of the fuse can sometimes be inaccurate.
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134825-subaru-tsb-how-to-set-your-im-monitors-for-emissions-testing/?fromsearch=1 Try the method in the link from that thread.
