Fairtax4me

No chance of gluing it back together?

Did you remove the electronic part on top of the IAC? That needs to be aligned a certain way or the valve doesn't swing properly. Did any other wires or hoses get unhooked while you were working in there? What about intake/airbox tubing clamped tight at both ends? Misfiring two cylinders on the same bank wouldn't be coil related. That's usually camshaft timing.

No need to service the hydraulic lash adjusters. They'll make a racket after you start it for the first time after doing major work but they quiet down after 30 minutes or so. Run Valvoline High mileage 5w30 and they'll stay quiet. That stuff has some great detergents in it that keep everything clean and the lifters from getting varnished and sticky.

Check the large fuses and the Fusible link (the short wire) in the under hood fuse panel.

Most likely source of a leak in that area is the oil separator plate. This will leak dark brown or black colored fluid (depending on the condition of your engine oil). Unfortunately fixing that requires the engine to be removed, BUT Its typically a very slow leak and can be dealt with long term without repair. Just keep an eye on the oil level. Split steering rack boots are common. You don't need a whole rack unless there is red fluid dripping from the ends inside the boot. After replacing the boots its a good idea to get an alignment, so if the tie rod ends are even remotely loose now is a good time to replace them as well, unless you're good at doing alignments with a measure tape and string. Split axle boots are another very common failure on these. It's best to replace just the boots on these, but if you have to replace the whole axle do some research on axles. There are only a few brands that work well in Subarus, and its usually best to retain original Subaru axles if possible. Gas smell... Like Swansorl said, possibly a loose hose clamp, or there could be a split or loose vacuum hose for the Evaporative emissions canister. (Collects fuel vapor from the fuel tank) If the canister is under the hood it will be a black cylinder, about the size of a large soup can. Probably on the passenger side towards the front of the car, and there will be some small hoses leading from it to the engine. Other cars have it mounted at the back of the car and the evap hoses run up next to the fuel lines on the drivers side. They attach to metal pipes on the intake and run under it to a small solenoid underneath the intake runners on the passenger side.

Yes, lash clearance is adjustable with a screw on the rocker. Wouldn't think valve clearance should be an issue, but if they've never been adjusted its possible.

That's the only source of oil in spark plug wells. If it were another leak it would make a huge mess all over the engine before getting into the plug well. Have never heard of twisting plug wires. Kinda sounds like bird to me. Swap the plug wires front to rear and see if the misfire codes follow them. Or if they look old just replace them.

It was at the time. Suspension is pretty straight forward on these. Sedan rear struts are quite a bit more difficult to change than wagon struts, because you have to remove the back seats to get to the upper mount studs. Engine issues are mostly oil leaks. The 96-99 DOHC 2.5 is very prone to head gasket and rod bearing failure. The SOHC 2.5 has some minor head gasket issues, usually external leakage, but has larger bearing journals so is much less prone to internal failures. Overheating seems to be the primary cause of pre-mature rod bearing wear in these. Any 2.2 will be solid as a rock. Head gasket failures are not unheard of, but so few and far between its not a big deal. After 96 they are interference though so timing belt maintenance is a must. Axles are easy on these. The inner end is held to the transmission with a spring pin, knock the pin out and the axle slides off with no loss of fluid from the trans, and no seal damage to worry about. Auto vs manual trans. The autos are actually better, despite the occasional issue with the AWD transfer clutches locking up (Torque bind). Manuals have a bad habit of eating the double roller bearing on the mainshaft. And some of the 99 to about 01-02 transmissions are having trouble with the center differentials kerploding. Autos with clean fluid are good for 300k easy. The AWD clutch packs are easy to replace with the trans in the car. Parts cost is around $450 If you need the whole transfer drum, but just the clutches I think are $120 ish.

32k is aged for copper plugs but they shouldn't be causing misfires yet. Check the plug wells for moisture.

Super glue or some kind of epoxy. Just a little bit on each of the mounting posts should do it.

95, 96, and early 97. 97 they went to the SLA rollers. Don't mix roller cams with tappet rockers or vice versa.

Yeah I loosen them before removing the old belt. The sprockets are keyed. Drivers side sprocket has notches on the back for the cam position sensor. Make sure that one gets put back on the correct side. The front seals are the same. The drivers side has an extension off the front of the head with an o-ring behind it. Passenger side has a cap on the rear of the head. Same O-ring for both. I almost forgot to say, replace the wrist pin access cover O-ring in the bellhousing. It's the diamond shaped cover. If you can't get the o-ring RTV or anaerobic sealer will work just as well.

That would be number 3. 3------4 1------2 Front The valve cover grommet is leaking and will need to be replaced fairly soon or it will short that spark plug and cause misfires. That could possibly be a cause of the current misfiring. Does that engine have spark plug wires or individual coils mounted directly on the plugs?

Check the hoses around the turbo. You might have to crawl under it and look up to get an idea of the source.

Sounds like broken or pinched wiring to the crank sensor. Very easy to do if not very careful about routing the wires correctly when bolting the intake manifold back on. Possibly a poor connection in the large junction of the harness plugs on the bellhousing. Flashing CEL indicates a current misfire. If its limited to one cylinder I would swap plug wire to another cylinder and see if the code moves. Try the injector next, then look into possible compression issues.

No plug well grommets on the 95 2.2. Plugs stick out of the top of the head above the valve cover. If oil is in the wells replace the filler tube o-ring and reseal the power steering pump. Also the oil pressure sender likes to leak, replace that too if its making a mess. Since the engine will be out reseal the oil pan and install a new o-ring on the pickup tube. Check the bolts that hold the rocker shaft assemblies on, they can back out and cause trouble. The one thing it probably doesn't need is the rear main seal, but if it does need it, dealer part only, and make sure the new seal gets installed at exactly the same depth as the old seal. If the screws on the oil pump backing plate are loose (not such a big problem on the older engines) just clean them up and reinstall with thread lock. Use anaerobic sealant on the oil pump to avoid clogging the oil feed ports in the heads.

The reason wasted spark systems need resistor plugs is to make sure the plug under compression actually sparks. Like you said it has nothing to do with RFI. The wiring that is really sensitive to RFI is shielded (cam and crank sensors) or will have converter circuitry built into the sensor to keep spark RF from altering the signal being sent back to the ECU. As for radios, they've had noise filters built in for years to deal with that kind of thing. Seems like you already know which plugs you want. Check out Sparkplugs.com and you can filter search results down by thread size, reach, type, metal, brand, every detail that matters.

Seems like an awful lot of trouble to go through if you're not even sure the Duty c is working properly. Have you checked line pressure at the solenoid? I'd check everything out mechanically before going after the electronic end.

Why do you want non-resistor plugs on a system that was designed to use resistor plugs? Wasted spark ignition systems do not work with non-resistor plugs. Unless you're planning to upgrade to a standalone management system that will handle ignition control on multiple coils and ditch the stock coil design, you need to stick with the resistor plugs.

I've seen universal covers made from vinyl that would probably fit OK. Worst case you can go get some vinyl/PVC material and make a cover. Or you could try Auto Grass! http://www.kurgostore.com/dog-travel/auto-grass/

I think I've seen them in blue/ black as well, but they sell the yellows here. And they are nice, as long as the grit they use in the paint doesn't get all down IN the filter. I usually just get the white ones. I don't put them on tight enough to have to really wrench on them. If I can't remove it by hand it's too tight.

Yeah, start with NGK plugs, and either Subaru or NGK spark plug wires if it isnt coil-on-plug. Might do some other basic tune-up stuff too like fuel and air filters and change the PCV valve.