Fairtax4me

Those are emissions monitors that are set as part of the emissions testing readiness checks. Nothing to worry about there. P0420 is probably on because of the misfires. Probably just needs new spark plugs. How many miles on the engine, and when were the plugs changed last, if they've ever been changed?

The purge control valve could be stuck open. Check operation of the purge valve and try to blow air through it while it is opening and closing. You could also remove the evap air filter and fill up to see if the filter is clogged. If the symptoms go away, the filter is clogged.

The old one wire sensors were fine, but the multi-wire universals have a poor reputation for reliability. Have one that has just failed in my mothers Camry after only about 2 years. Worked great until about a month ago then fuel economy went to hell and it popped a CEL codes p1130 and p0171. Scanner showed STFT at +24%, LTFT at +44.5%. (Pig rich) You can get Denso or NTK exact fit on rockauto.com for about $50.

A base model legacy will have a different final drive ratio. The GT and Outback should have the same final drive. GT will have slightly smaller tires than the Outback. Major differences in trim and options can be found in the archive pages at Cars101.com

Could be a bad ECT sensor flooding the engine when warm. Or bad Crank Position Sensor.

A higher profile will affect the speedometer. It will read slow due to the increased circumference of the tire. Depending on the increase in size the difference could be 1-2mph or up to about 10 mph before you run into fitment issues. Check out the Miata.net tire size calculator. You can put in your stock size and the size you want to install and see what difference it will make.

Look on the bright side, maybe they'll drop Fram now! :-P I've occasionally used the Subaru blue filters and they appear to be built well, much better built than the Fram filters you can get in the parts stores. Haven't ever cut one open though.

Since the TPMS system is considered an emissions control system I'm pretty sure unplugging the receiver module will result in either a Check engine light or some other annoyance worse than the TPMS light. I tried to remove the bulb for the SRS light in my Lincoln because the clock spring was bad. But then the car would beep about 50 times when I turned the key on. So I put the bulb back and put a piece of black tape over it.

Look for any dampness around the master cylinder and booster, front and rear calipers, ABS control unit, and the hill holder if the car has it. There could also be a leak at the proportioning valve which I think is somewhere along the rocker panel inside the car.

EBC Red Stuff. Nuff said. Dunno if there are any big differences in brakes between the new models, but like Texan said, better pads and rotors make a difference, braided stainless brake lines can help with pedal feel as well.

Doesn't look too bad to me. Plasti gauge it and see if clearance is within spec. As for wrist pins, do you mean rod bearing? The big end where it meets the crankshaft is the common failure on the 2.5, and is typically a result of overheating. As long as it didnt go through the block you can rebuild the shortblock fairly cheap. If you don't want to bother with a rebuild, just find a good long block and put it in the car with new timing parts. Might consider replacing the head gaskets if they look like they're seeping.

There are only two types of crank sprockets. One has 6 reluctor teeth, the other has like 30. You used the dot on the back of the sprocket for timing right? Not the arrow on the front. Cams could be out as well. Are you sure you put the sprockets back on the correct cams?

Come on man you can do better. http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-1-8-2-2L-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-EJ18-EJ22-Timing-Belt-Kit-AISIN-Water-Pump-/260925109309?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item3cc059343d&vxp=mtr Aisin water pump with OE style gasket and brown oil seals.

So wait, did they rip out the lock cylinder? If you just need the switch those are usually replaceable without all the cylinder and stuff.

So it seems that the rear bushings are the same for like everything. Legacy, Impreza, Forester, Base, L, Gt, Outbacks, Rs, WRX, STI, everything uses the same part number for the rear bushings from like 93 to 2007 (legacy only til 99). WRX, RS, TS, Outback impreza, and Forester share a different front bushing. STI uses its own front bushing apparently, which appears to be the group N equivalent. Trying to find pictures of them is more difficult than I though it would be. Either way. The STI stock front bushing lists for $17. The "Group N" lists for $24.95. Which one you think I'm buying? :-P

To have machined the flywheel that much there would be nothing left of it. Shops usually take no more than a few thousandths of a inch off. I want to blame the release fork, but also wonder if maybe you got a turbo pressure plate by accident? Do the fingers on the pressure plate point in towards the disc, or out towards the TOB? Is there any physical damage to the release fork? (Cracks) Is it seated all the way on the pivot stud? Is the stud installed in the correct location? Should be the lower mount point if I remember correctly. Post a picture of it and we can probably tell if its bent. also post a pic of how you have the TOB and release fork mounted in the bellhousing.

Flex plates don't whine. They might click, tick, or knock, and will probably make you think a rod is about to sprout. Probably the pump making noise. Pull the pan and check the pickup first. There is an o ring on the pickup screen that can let air get sucked in with the fluid and cause the pump to whine just like a steering pump will when the fluid is low. There may be another o ring higher up as well. Also just for giggles check the torque of the bolts that hold the valve body to the case. I have heard of valve body bolts coming loose (don't remember which car it was) and causing some weird problems. If the bolts near the pickup are loose air could get sucked in around the valve body gaskets.

Timing belt. Worst case, you get to do a 2.2 swap. Someone you know has an engine lift.

Subaru is picky about the thermostat it uses. Has to have a 170 degree thermostat and it has to come from a dealer. Aftermarket thermostats don't work and can cause problems just like this. Another problem is the bypass routing through the heater core absolutely has to be clear. Coolant moves through the bypass to the back side of the thermostat and keeps it open in cold weather. If the heater core is plugged the bypass route gets blocked and only ice cold coolant from the radiator flows over the thermostat, causes it to close and stay closed. Get a thermostat from Subaru and back flush the heater core and bypass pipe.

I did one in my wagon a while ago and took a few pics. Ill have to see if I still have them. Not difficult to install but it's a pain in the rump roast to adjust everything properly after the new regulator is in.

Possibly something interesting to others in here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2233376 Dunno how accurate his tester or test procedure is, but the scale should be pretty close. Thanks for the link. I was comparing opposedforces part numbers with SP4Ys SPT parts list and they show different numbers. But reading threads about group N bushings some people said they had the same part numbers as the STI listings. Subaru shows different list prices for group n and STI bushings though.

Warm idle should be 700. Do you have it set to stay at 1000 or will it not come down below that? It should run up to about 1500 on a cold start but should come down over the course of a few minutes. I have a set of grey top injectors that are correct for that engine for sale if you need them. Thought the 22t injectors were a higher flow rate? You may end up running pig rich.

If the pulleys were drastically different I think the timing would be so far off it wouldn't run at all. Perhaps you are just a tooth off, or perhaps it needs some other love. Do you have a scanner that can read live data? Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? Checked for vacuum leaks? How old is the gas in the tank?

Right, my only concern is that this is the bushing that keeps the wheel from moving fore/aft when you hit a bump. With a stiff bushing, rather than absorbing that lateral motion, it would transfer to the body. I kinda like the soft ride I have now, other than the thump/clunk I occasionally get from the worn out bushings that are there. You know those speed humps they put everywhere to make you slow down to like 10 mph? I usually roll those at about 30. The rough railroad crossings around here that people usually cross at not much more than a snails pace I do the same way, roll over them at about 25-30 and the car just sorta walks over them. I like the soft floaty feel because the tires stay glued to the surface on the gravel and dirt around here. So you can sorta see my usual driving style. Have no doubt that helped lead to the demise of the current bushings. :-p Here's a question I haven't found a clear answer to, are stock STI bushings already Group N? Or is the Group N set the next step above stock STI?