Fairtax4me

Nifty. I've always just used a wrench bolted to the bellhousing to hold torque converters in. I like that trans jack though. I have an adapter that sits on my floor jack but its so tall I never use it. With a transmission sitting directly on the jack head I can roll it out from under the car. With the jack adapter I would need the car another 6" higher off the ground to do that. The jack doesn't lift high enough to do that.

Belt needs to be tight all the way around before installing the tensioner, and the only slack should be between the upper left (drivers side) sprocket and the crank sprocket. Remove the belt and reset.

It's something external. Rod knock would have left you on the side of the road with a hole in the top of the engine by now. Also rod knock would be present at all RPMs. Possibly the tensioner for the timing belt, or a cracked flex plate if it has an automagic transmission. You'll have to remove the timing cover to get a good look at the tensioner and other timing components. Really no good way to check the flex plate without removing the engine.

No difference in the belts now. The CA cars had belts rated for 105k miles, vs 60k for the non-CA cars. Subaru did away with the 60k interval and went to 105k on all models. Basically, all of the belts available are now CA spec.

I shouldn't be surprised that you guys actually posted useful links! (but I am for some reason) I haven't read about "halogen cycle" before. Time to do some more research... So the basic idea is that these are designed to perform best when steady voltage and current in the proper range are applied to the bulb, to keep the tungsten in the filament from depositing on the glass and eventually degrading the filament to the point that it breaks. And the effect of low voltage could be further detrimental to the bulbs if there are other problems with the electrical system, such as a poorly functioning alternator causing dimming of the lights when there is a load placed on the system?

The factory gasket is a stamped piece of stainless steel and Ive re-used those before with no trouble. If yours didn't survive just seal it up with some aluminum foil folded over a couple times. Works great and is resistant to the heat and exhaust gases. Cut the holes for the opening and the bolts out with an x-acto knife. Just be careful not to kink the foil up too much. Clean as much crud as you can out of that intake manifold too.

Would be nice to get a part number for that turbo bearing. The only one you really need is 806225100. It is a good idea to replace the input seal while the trans is apart, that's 806725090.

Yeah if you wouldnt mind. Its an XTM Racing X-Crawler. The part number for the stub is 146851. I tried to get some help finding a similar replacement from my LHS and they were less than enthusiastic about looking around for one. They did spend about 15 minutes on the phone with Global Hobby trying to find the correct part for me though. The basic story they got was that the factory that produced the parts for this particular model went under (the brand is still around) and they figured that rather than send the diagrams off to another factory for production, they would just discontinue the model and all replacement parts support. So anybody with this crawler is just SOL if it breaks. Needless to say, I won't be buying anymore XTM products.

Depends on trim level because you need to match the final drive (differential) ratio. The ratio differs between trim levels. You could have either a 3.9 in a base or L model, or 4.11 in an Outback or GT model. On the upper drivers side of the transmission bellhousing is a sticker with a ten digit code on it. Something like TY752V.... The code can be looked up on the transmission chart (search google to find it) and that should tell you the FDR of the trans you have. Basic differences between years were not numerous. In 99 they changed the number of holes in the bellhousing but the trans will still bolt up the same. There are some issues with the starter mounting bolts in the post 99 transmissions though. I'd try to stick with something between 95 and 98, but you could use one from as far back as 90.

That could ruin the axle joint but wouldn't cause the car to float around. Has it been aligned recently?

What kind though? Copper? Platinum? Iridium? Gaps make a difference on copper plugs especially. Usually the iridiums state not to re-gap. Vacuum is checked with a vacuum gauge hooked up to one of the ports on the intake. You could also T off of the hoses for the FPR or MAP sensor if it has it. This may also tell you if there are any leaks, but check the general condition of all the vacuum hoses if you haven't already. MAF sensor would certainly cause some problems. You could test it by unplugging it to force the ECU into fail safe. Swapping is easy too if you have a known good spare. Also make sure there isn't oil or dirt all over the sensor element. Another sensor that causes problems is the knock sensor. Check it for cracks in the housing, corrosion. One of those things that makes a big difference but might never set a code.

Timing shown on a scanner would be ignition timing, but that doesn't indicate if the cam timing is correct. If you've had GD check the cam timing we can rest assured its fine. I chased a multiple cylinder warm engine misfire for three days only to find out the drivers cam was off by one tooth. :Facepalm: Only happened once the engine warmed up, and would go away under heavy throttle at mid range and higher RPM. Fuel trims that far negative mean its runnin way rich, or it thinks its way rich. And it's pulling fuel to compensate. This could just be due to unburned fuel in the exhaust though. What kind of spark plugs did you put in? Did you set the gap accordingly? Have you checked engine vacuum? Steady 19-20" at idle? Checked compression? Is this a 2.2 or 2.5? If 2.5, have you checked valve lash?

The Cat temp theory could be proven with an EGT sensor in the cat. Put it in a car that doesn't and has never had an issue with the 420 code (like mine) and compare that with readings from a car that has recurring code 420. Put an AFR sensor in it too to see if the low temp readings coincide with lean mixture readings. Ill be a tester! Who wants to fund it!? :-P

Higher resistance limits current, which would cause them to burn cooler. How does increasing current, and there-fore lamp temperature, (by lowering resistance) lengthen lamp life?

WeatherTech to the rescue! Glad to hear the better mats fixed the problem. I knew you could get mats that style for many trucks and SUVs but didnt know anyone made them for any Subaru models. Thanks for posting the product link and follow up!

Transverse link bushings ok? The big ones at the back end of the control arms, they drip grey silicone fluid when they go bad. Steering rack bushings commonly fall apart from oil contamination. Trailing arm bushings get soft and cause the rear wheels to move around quite a bit. Tires at the right pressure?

Cut the roof off, cage it, and race it.

I was for like a month. Bought a $400 super class aluminum crawler kit, spent another $400 or so on electronics for it (steering servos were $125 a peice). Drove it 5 or 6 times and broke an axle stub. Never ordered a replacement, now it's a discontinued model and parts for it are no longer available. Been thinking of selling off the electronics and using the rest as a $400 paper weight. I'd like to think that somewhere there is another brand of axle stub that might be similar enough to work.

Check condition of the bearings in the transfer section. Probably nothing weong with them but they're easier to replace if the case is out of the car. The rest don't really go bad, and if they do its not worth replacing them because its a pain in the rump roast and they're godawful expensive.

Dems it.

At the beginning of the video when you rev the engine you can see the valve opening and closing on its own, so it's operating normally. Probably just clogged and not allowing exhaust through.

Either one works. Even if you give the dealer an old part number, their parts database will automatically bring up the most recent part number that supercedes it. That o ring is the same across the entire range of EJ series engines, just go to the dealer or call and tell them you need the o-ring for the rear wrist pin access cover. They'll be able to find it.

Bearing is like $50 from a dealer. Know anyone with a press? Only takes a few minutes (with a press) to pop the old one off and the new one can be tapped on with a hammer and the inner race of the old bearing. Torque the nut on the end to 85 ft lbs and restake it. Just be damn sure you put the new bearing on so the outer snap ring is in the correct direction. If its not toward the back end of the shaft it's not gonna fit back in the case. There are a few threads floating around here with more details.

Couldn't hurt.

It does help to push the TC back. Just put a long screwdriver between the TC and flex-plate. It'll slide right back. Tilting the trans this way and that, makes the perceived fluid level go up and down, perhaps could be the reason for the high diff fluid. Should have drained that first anyway. Drain the gear oil and trans fluid, makes it a few lbs lighter, but mostly makes less chance of making a HUGE mess everywhere. I find it much easier to line up the trans with the lower studs in the block.