Fairtax4me

That would be the infamous mainshaft (input shaft) ball bearing failure. Clutch engaged makes noise, disengage clutch and it stops. I've dealt with several of these and you described the symptoms exactly. The next symptom will be popping out of 4th and/or 5th gear. You'll then lose 3rd, but you probably have 15k miles or more before either of those occur. Replace the bearing before it starts popping out of gear to avoid serious wear. I think GD posted not long ago that there is a better bearingn available that was used in the early turbo transmissions. 97preza, you may want to expedite replacement if you've been driving it for that long with it making noise. Junkyard transmission is an option, but a gamble as you may get one with the same problem.

Pull the timing cover and see if its leaking from the weep hole under the pulley. If its not leaking there, your reseal didn't work.

This is the nature of Silverstar bulbs. I've been through quite a few of both the standard silver star and the ultras. Great light output, the ultras are godawful expensive, and they only last about 4-6 months. Same story in all 5 of the cars I've used them in.

I bought a $12 tube of Anaerobic sealant (5-6oz.) about three years ago. First thing I did was use it to reseal an oil pump. I've since used the same for 4 more oil pumps, 3 separator plates, and to reseal the case halves and tail sections on three transmissions. There is a lot of surface area to cover on a transmission case. I still have about half the tube.

You would be surprised at how much can leak from that stupid o-ring. New o-rings are only $2 or so at the dealer, they usually keep them in stock. Worst case, that cover could also be sealed with Ultra Grey RTV or Anaerobic sealer.

U- joint is a good possibility. Bent wheel or bad axle come to mind too. Clicking is only for outer CV joints. When the inner joints wear they tend to just get out of center a little and wobble. Makes the whole axle shaft move in a circle as it spins. Kinda hard to check though.

Perhaps the shear pin in the shift fork sheared and the fork will only go forward? Are you sure the fork centered between the collar correctly?

Good chance the release lever cracked. Possible the pressure plate is damaged or the clutch disc fell apart but they usually make some racket. Easier to hold heavy clutch components while reaching over the fender or laying under the car, or easier to put engine on a work bench or crate to work on the clutch? The release fork is only clipped on and is fairly easy to remove. Get new clips for the throw out bearing while you have it apart.

Can you post a picture of it? How many pins are in the cable? You say the connector on the amp twists? Does it have pins soldered to the PCB or wires?

Commonly covered topic here. Quite a few threads on repairing the key way and crankshaft after having the crank pulley walk off. Basically consists of removing what's left of the key, filing down the gouged sections a bit so the sprocket can slide over, filling the key way with epoxy or weld so a new key can be properl placed, then installing a new crank pulley and bolt. Torque to something like 140 ft lbs to prevent the bolt from backing out again. Guess the good news is she recently had the timing belt done. But did they replace all the idlers and water pump?

That's all the usual stuff except burning oil, and that could be as simple as a plugged PCV valve. Exhaust pipes rust and rubber parts (boots, tires, etc) wear out. What code do you have for the EGR? That could be a simple fix like cleaning the EGR valve or replacing a vacuum hose. Probably worth $2500 or better, could be a good buy for a local mechanic or like Texan said, someone's kid who needs it to get to school. I would think you could have all of that fixed for under $1500 if you can do some of the work yourself. Tires and exhaust being the biggest expense.

Can't possibly be as heavy as a 4L80-E. Talk about heavy! You can also lose a good 40lbs by removing the torque converter, this presents its own challenges though.

This makes a good "You might be a Subaru owner if..." ...It took you a minute to realize there's a girl in that picture... ...You think it's a shame they didn't draw it in permanent ink...

Dis you set the meter to the Mega-ohm scale? Did you try anywhere else besides the base like the metal part on top? Sensor should test somewhere around 580K (580,000) ohms. If the sensor were open internally the ECU would have set a code just like if it was unplugged. Perhaps there was a cold solder joint where the signal wire joined the sensor element causing very high resistance but not enough to trigger a CEL. Maybe the sensor design is different and the base is electrically isolated from the element. Hard to say. Either way, a new sensor should pass the ohm test just fine. Very strange that it doesn't.

Is your ohmmeter auto-ranging or manual set? Do you get a 0 ohm reading by touching the leads together?

That's a pretty sweet deal!

It grounds to the engine block through the base. Put one lead on the block somewhere easy to get to. You may have to scratch some dirt out of the way to get a good connection. If that doesn't work unbolt it and check resistance to the base of the sensor. There could be some corrosion on the block under the sensor.

Knock sensor should be roughly 580k ohm. It's probably fine if it has already been replaced. If there is any corrosion on the housing that can alter the voltage signal. O2 sensors either Denso or Bosch is OE. I've seen both on the soobs ive worked on and either seems to work fine. If you get the Bosch universal fit make sure you know which wires to connect. Denso exact fit sensors are usually pretty cheap through Rockauto.com. (Around $50)

I would stick with the 02 manifold as John suggested. Try the rubber hose EGR trick to keep the CEL away if the 00 head doesn't have the EGR port.

And you're positive you have no vacuum leaks?

Yes I believe the green wire goes to a radio signal amp. Not the speaker amp.

I use a 12mm socket on the end of a serpentine belt tool. Just enough room and plenty of torque from the 18" handle. A 1/4" drive ratchet works as well. Most you can fit the handle of a small floor jack over the handle of the ratchet for extra torque.

What code did you get? Did you wiggle the wire around while checking the resistance? Could just be an internally broken wire. Takes 16 miles for it to move just the right way before it breaks the signal. You could also test it by connecting a voltmeter set to AC and spin the wheel. $125 is a waste of money for a sensor. They all work the same way, just find one in a junkyard that looks the same and has the same plug.

How do you figure it's dead? I guess you've checked the codes already to know its seeing a fault in the RR sensor?

A head scratcher. Doesn't make much sense to get both high and low voltage codes for the O2 sensor. I would have to guess that's going to be a loose connection, possibly a chafed wire. Air assist injector I'm not sure about. Would have to look it up in the FSM. What engine is in the car?