Fairtax4me

Sounds like an old tractor transmission with straight cut gears. Time to tear it apart and have a look at the carnage.

I've wanted one for a long time. Never seemed entirely practical for me to have a two door car though. Maybe someday. I seem them pop up on Craigslist from time to time usually for under a grand with a dead transmission or a half primed rice-ject that someone abandoned because they couldn't figure out how to fix some random issue.

No modification without having a new rack and pinion custom machined. What year and model Impreza do you have? A WRX or STI may have a closer ratio.

I have to wonder what caused the fuse to blow. Especially if both amps have blown fuses, what's causing that?

This is a somewhat common failure (which really isn't very common) of the ABS control module from what I remember. The car will still dive fine without the ABS, simply pulling the fuse is an option if you're comfortable driving without ABS. However, it will need to be repaired properly if you need to pass state safety inspection. These don't go bad very often, so a used control module should be a cost effective option. Edit: Subaru calls it a hydraulic control unit. Found the procedure to read ABS codes in the FSM. Under the drivers dash there is a diagnostic plug for the ABS. Its a small black plug taped to the main harness. Unwrap the tape and the plug becomes accessible along with two small black wires with spade terminals, unwrap those as well. Take either one and plug it into pin 6 of the diagnostic plug. If the lock tab is on top pin 6 is the lower far right pin. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Turn the key ON and the ABS light will flash up to 3 stored codes. (It only stores the most recent 3 codes) it will first display a code 11, two quick flashes, to show it is in code read mode. After that long flashes are the first digit of the code, short flashes are the second digit. Count the flashes to get the codes. You can post the codes here and ill post the definitions if you'd like. Or you may be able to google the codes to get definitions.

Good way to get zapped. Easier to unplug fuel injectors. By covered in oil do you mean the electrode was oil fouled or was there oil in the plug well (where the wire goes)? Oil in the plug well means it needs valve cover gaskets. This would also damage the plug wire which could cause it to arc to the head.

That may work with some style boots, I don't know. None of the ones I've ever bought will do that. It's hard enough to get the things onto just the tie rod (the threaded part) itself, even covered in silicone grease. No way in hell is it going to fit over the outer tie rod end.

The McIntosh system relies on an external amp to power the speakers. If the amp has no power then you get exactly the situation you describe. Head unit powers up but you get no sound. FSM says the amp gets power from SBF 8, with another 20 amp fuse inline to the amp. The fuse is in a "relay block" under the dash to the left of the steering column. There should be 3 or 4 relays in the block. They are the ignition relay, DRL relay, power window relay, and wiper de-icer relay (if equipped). The line splits after that and you should get 12V on pins 1 and 7 (red/black wires on both) of the amp connector. Pins 10 and 11 are ground. Ground wires should be black. The only input signal wire I see on the wire diagram is a DIN cord. The amp then splits out the signals to all speakers and the subwoofer. There are 4 other outputs from the head unit it appears, and they aren't labeled as speaker outputs but two of the connector codes match up to the front door cords. This could be why the front speakers work. There are two outputs that appear to end in the dash, perhaps this could be the rear channel and the wiring to the back was not put in at the factory?

Oy! Makes sense now.

On models with cable clutch without the hill holder there is supposed to be a return spring on the release fork to pull the TOB away from the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is released. Models with the hill holder do not have a spring as the hill holder does the same job when it is properly adjusted. Incorrect release cable adjustment will cause the TOB to drag. Hydraulic clutch models should be similar. Lack of a return spring or incorrect hill holder adjustment can cause the TOB to drag. Another thing that causes problems is resting your foot on the clutch pedal or keeping it depressed while sitting at stop lights.

Possibly bad knock sensor or vacuum leak. The ECU doesn't always pick up misfires right away, especially on MT cars where the crankshaft is connected directly to the drivetrain through the clutch. When did it last get spark plugs and wires? Have you removed spark plugs to check their condition and gap? Also, what year and engine?

No mention of oil in the first post. But you are correct, coolant conditioner doesn't do jack for an oil leak. Nothing really helps oil leaks except thicker oil, and that has ill-consequences of its own.

Non-sense! This is a perfectly relevant question. Non-sense! It probably isn't the BPT. Though it can be, it's more likely the EGR valve itself has clogged. And this is very easy to test without even removing the valve. First we need to identify the EGR valve. It's on the drivers side rear of the intake manifold. Has a metal cone shape with holes in the sides. Through the holes you can see a shaft in the middle and a rubber diaphragm. Now to test it. Using a small crescent wrench (just large enough to fit the open end around the EGR shaft) push the diaphragm towards the rear of the car. The shaft and diaphragm should move easily and should return to the rest position easily. Now start the car and allow it to warm up enough to at least reach normal idle speed. Repeat the above test. If the EGR valve or piping leading to is clean, the engine should stall right away. Releasing the valve should return it to its rest position. If the engine does not stall, either the valve itself or the pipe leading to it or the port in the cylinder head is clogged with carbon and will need to be cleaned. If the engine stalls while performing the above test this could mean the BPT is bad, or the Vacuum hose to the EGR valve is split. There are several hoses that go to the BPT and EGR valve, and a solenoid under the intake runner near the valve. Check the vacuum hoses for fit and connection. To test the solenoid poke your head under the driver side dash and look for two green plugs with one wire each. They should be toward the center of the car. Plug them in and turn the key to ON. This puts the ECU in Test mode, which makes it cycle the radiator fans and all of the solenoids in about half second intervals. Put your finger on the EGR solenoid and feel for it to click on and off. Hook a vacuum hose to it if you can and blow through it. Air should flow and then stop coinciding with every other click (on, off) of the solenoid. If air flows through the solenoid at all times it should be replaced. If no air flows through the solenoid (none at all) it should be replaced. If the solenoid does not click it should be replaced. If the solenoid checks out and all vacuum hoses are properly connected and the engine stalls when the EGR valve is opened at idle, replace the BPT. It's the black plastic thing clamped to the manifold right next to the EGR valve. Picture of a Subaru EGR valve. Yours may not be exactly the same but it should be similar in appearance. BPT is the thing with the green sticker just above it. This view is looking forward from the back of the engine on the drivers side. Also, Welcome to the board!

Kinda looks like it. Could just be cheap hub covers though. Car looks nice. Needs some alloys.

Why did you drill it? The stud is supposed to have a tight interference fit in the hub so it will not spin.

Is the aux input jack separate from the head unit? Mounted in the glove box or elsewhere on the dash, but not on the actual unit? If so it could be unplugged.

Was this a trans swap car?

Stem height is not a concern if you are using the original valves, or new ones from Subaru. If the stem height is excessive it is because of another factor such as incorrect valve margin which requires replacement of the valve, or the seat being ground too far. In which case the seat should be replaced rather than grinding the valve stem. The shop will also have a guide with the proper dimensions. Just make sure they know the correct year of the engine the heads came from.

You have to buy expensive ( from Subaru) boots or they will crack again in very short time. Aftermarket boots don't hold up to the heat from the exhaust header pipes that run directly underneath the boots. There is a small hole in the side of some inner tie rod joints. If you have a needle fitting of the proper size you can regrease the joint through this hole with a standard grease gun. It may not need any new grease if the boot has only recently split. If you decide to replace it, consider replacing both sides, inner and outer and have the alignment set afterward.

Rubber mats do tend to trap moisture under them and perhaps this is all that is happening. I don't know of any type of rubber floor may that is immune to this. If you can pick up the mat and shake it out and place it on top of the passenger side floor mat when you exit the car, this will give moisture in the carpet a chance to evaporate out, especially during the day if the sun is out.

There is another port toward the rear of the block that can be used as well. And I think the thread on the rear port is 1/2" NPT.

You may be able to buy some time with a bottle of the Subaru coolant conditioner. But ultimately they will need to be replaced. For the time being, make sure the coolant stays full to avoid overheating and more serious damage.

Only problem with that is you have to disassemble the front axles and leave the outer cups in the hubs. Otherwise there is nothing to preload the wheel bearings and they get chewed up pretty quick. Plus you have to rig the Duty C to provide full pressure to the Transfer clutch pack all the time or else the clutches will just slip. It certainly sounds final drive related. Hard to say for sure. You might take it to a good reputable mechanic in your area that could confirm the source of the noise.

In that case, you should probably pull the carpet back and set up a water hose to spray the front of the car (have a friend help) while you lok under the dash for water trickling down the firewall. I misread earlier and thought it said 2002. 2012 should still be under warranty, as cCupedUpSoobie said. Might be best to just take it to the dealer and have them fix it.

14mm Allen. (Hex) Torx may work but the bits are easy to round.